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69 225 V6 Hei Installation Help Needed

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Greenshirt82, Oct 12, 2020.

  1. Oct 12, 2020
    Greenshirt82

    Greenshirt82 The Old Girl - '69 CJ5

    Southern Maryland
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2012
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    296
    I got the new D2000, coil and wires and took a look at my old distributer. I now know the source of the rattle and poor running:[​IMG]

    I figured out what needs grinding down:
    [​IMG]

    I can fit the D2000 clearance, she rotates:
    [​IMG]

    However it does not seat completely. It has about 1/8" left to go before fully seated. I cannot find anything keeping it from dropping other than the chamfer (?) angle on the metal collar:
    [​IMG]

    What are my options? Swap the collars?

    Tim
     
    Chasey99 likes this.
  2. Oct 12, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    Cant help but I'm following as I'm installing HEI soon.
     
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  3. Oct 12, 2020
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    Normally folks forget the slot that has to be lined up on the oil pump to the distributor shaft. They must be lined up, and if it is, it will twist a bit as the shaft fits down in the timing gears. Don't forget to account for the twist in getting the slot to line up either.
     
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  4. Oct 12, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    Here's a trick, I need to add to the HEI video thread as well.
    Mark your cap with a couple lines that match the way the slot/shaft need to be set. Makes the lining up process LOTS easier.

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Oct 12, 2020
    Greenshirt82

    Greenshirt82 The Old Girl - '69 CJ5

    Southern Maryland
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    When I dropped it in, the rotating part of the shaft twisted about 1/8 of a turn. I assumed that was the slot in the shaft aligning with the bar I can see in the hole. Is there another "twist" I need to consider?

    Tim
     
  6. Oct 13, 2020
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member

    Louisville, Ky
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    When I was dropping my distributor in, it would not drop all the way in. Greased the O- ring and it slipped right in
     
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  7. Oct 15, 2020
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    The twist is the gears going in, but then the slot needs to be lined up as well. Its a bit of a two process setup. The advice to grease the O-ring is good, I use Vaseline or a little motor oil as that is what is down there.
     
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  8. Oct 28, 2020
    Greenshirt82

    Greenshirt82 The Old Girl - '69 CJ5

    Southern Maryland
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    Aug 28, 2012
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    After watching a few other vids I realized my terms were wrong. The tang fits into the slot for the oil pump, and it was not aligned. One vid actually says, “if not aligned the distributor will not seat, by about 3/8 inch”.

    I rotated the crank shaft until the shaft dropped into the oil pump slot.

    Then I continued to rotate until the piston reached TDC, confirming the timing mark is aligned and the rotor is over the “1” pin on the distributer that I had marked based on a vid for GM HEI distributer installs (which is for a V8 but it looks the same). But...

    Based on the “great video” thread the number 1 pin should be just left of the coil connector (3rd of 4 that have no gaps clockwise). Based on the alignment the rotor cap looks about 180* out. How critical is the nr 1 pin?

    [​IMG]

    Tim

    Edit: added piccy.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2020
  9. Oct 28, 2020
    Greenshirt82

    Greenshirt82 The Old Girl - '69 CJ5

    Southern Maryland
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    I decided to rotate the shaft 180* and now number 1 is on the right, towards the firewall.

    before I start this thing, does this look right?

    Tim

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Oct 28, 2020
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    Number ONE PIN is THE most CRITICAL part of installing HEI in the Odd Fire IMOP.

    [​IMG]
     
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  11. Oct 28, 2020
    Greenshirt82

    Greenshirt82 The Old Girl - '69 CJ5

    Southern Maryland
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    Thank you!

    As noted, I did remove the distributor, rotated the shaft 180*, reinstalled so the number one pin is the one just left of the BAT.

    Again, thanks for validating my concern. I’ll crank it tomorrow. Dinner and a movie (at home) tonight.

    Tim
     
  12. Oct 30, 2020
    Greenshirt82

    Greenshirt82 The Old Girl - '69 CJ5

    Southern Maryland
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    Weather improved enough to try and start. She starts but runs very rough. I can advance the throttle but she starts to get rougher and backfires above 1000rpm. With timing light on it appears the mark is at the top. ISTR it should be about 5* BTDC but it’s nowhere near there. I’ve rotated the distributer fully each way (more would require pulling and reinstalling) and clockwise is worse, counterclockwise is a better idle but in both cases the timing mark on the flywheel does not move closer to the gauge. Video:


    If not obvious, this is my first go at a distributer replacement. What must I do next?

    Tim
     
  13. Oct 30, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    I think your installation is off a few teeth on the cam drive. I'm used to the vacuum canister pointing more forward, almost touching the belt. I think you need to clock it counter-clockwise a few teeth is so it sits pointing more forward. Look at Warlock's photo.
    -Donny
     
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  14. Oct 30, 2020
    cj3may

    cj3may New Member

    latobe pa
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    Just a thought when I put in the hei on my willys .when I would bring up number 1 piston to top checked with a dail indicator my mark on my balancer pulley would show 6 degree btdc. Don’t know why it is off . So a I made a mark on pulley to line up the Zero mark from timing cover casting. Then set timing to 8 degrees from my mark .now when I check timing it shows 14 degrees btdc with vacuum plugged. And it runs good set this way . Perhaps you can check to make sure you’re timing marks are correct.
     
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  15. Oct 30, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    This is a good thing to check. An original 225 timing cover has a 3 angled front pan shape, and a functionally identical later 231 timing cover is "V" shaped. The 231 cover has different timing marks.
    -Donny
     
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  16. Oct 31, 2020
    Greenshirt82

    Greenshirt82 The Old Girl - '69 CJ5

    Southern Maryland
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    What I did: I removed the cover, rotated the distributor enough to counterclockwise to reinstall the cover (holding screw did not clear the manifold bolt). I can rotate the distributer a few degrees counterclockwise before the vac hose strikes the fan. Vacuum hose removed. Engine starts, runs rough for a few seconds then settles. Timing mark is at top of pulley when cylinder 1 fires.

    This doesn’t seem any different or better. I’m going to start over and verify what I’m doing.

    Tim
     
  17. Oct 31, 2020
    Greenshirt82

    Greenshirt82 The Old Girl - '69 CJ5

    Southern Maryland
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    When I turn the pulley to get to TDC the mark is at 0*. I use a pencil inserted into the spark plug hole.

    Tim
     
  18. Oct 31, 2020
    Greenshirt82

    Greenshirt82 The Old Girl - '69 CJ5

    Southern Maryland
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    I’m not sure I understand. My engine is an original 225. So far the only non-original parts are the distributer, wires, and plugs.

    Tim
     
  19. Oct 31, 2020
    Renegade ll

    Renegade ll Member

    Thayne Wyoming
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    I don't know about your's but when I did mine, it runs best at about 10 degrees btdc. The plugs need to be gapped wider also. My vacuum advance points right at the radiator and my number one is just like Warlock's. I hooked my vacuum line to manifold vacuum and it runs at all rpm's fine. Here is a photo of mine. The hardest part is find the real top dead center on compression.

     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2020
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  20. Oct 31, 2020
    Greenshirt82

    Greenshirt82 The Old Girl - '69 CJ5

    Southern Maryland
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    Things are getting worse.

    I removed the distributor and plugs and started over.
    1. Rotated the crankshaft until cylinder 1 was at TDC. Timing mark was at 0*. Used a pencil in the spark plug hole to confirm TDC.
    2. Rotated the distributor shaft until the rotor aligned to pin 1. Inserted the distributor into the timing cover.
    3. Rotated the crankshaft until the oil pump aligned to the tang in the distributor shaft. Distributor fully seated.
    4. Rotated the distributor body until pin 1 was aligned with the rotor.
    5. Installed the distributor cover and connected the wiring.
    6. Installed the spark plugs and connected the wires to the distributor.
    7. Confirmed vacuum hose disconnected.
    Turned engine over, would not start. Nothing.

    Rotated the distributor body counterclockwise to move the vacuum closer to the fan. Turned over engine, it seemed to struggle. Almost like the plugs were firing too far BTDC. I tried a second time and it started, but idles very rough. The timing is now flashing cylinder 1 on the other side of the engine from the marks. When it fires, the mark is at 9 o’clock but the fixed marks are at 2 o’clock.

    My understanding of the engine is that I’ve got my distributor misaligned (obviously). Since it appears to be off by ~150* my next move would be to rotate the shaft counterclockwise by about 150*. Then rotate the crankshaft until the oil pump is aligned again. Reinstall the plugs and try again.

    Tim
     
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