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69 Dauntless Project - the 'Heep'

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Danefraz, Sep 12, 2012.

  1. Aug 12, 2016
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Thanks Terry. And for the advise and for the blueprint thread to use as a map and reference.

    I have oil volume to the heads using my 2ft regular flathead screwdriver as a oil pump primer. Got to be careful here with that.

    Next i will pull the valve covers again rotate the engine by 90 defrees all the way around priming at each clock position to check oil volume.

    Getting close to sticking this sucker in the frame. Whooo weee, excitement biilds.

    Oh, that rotella is finding every leakable spot right now. Important to tighten oil plug beyond finger tight,,, just saying. Cast lip on the heads where the valve covers sit, ug, leaky leaky too.
     
  2. Aug 12, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    Good Job..................If you let that set around for a few months before you run it...........not a bad Idea to hit it again with your primer tool....
     
  3. Sep 5, 2016
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    This weekend was a bit of 'chores', clean the garage and figure out some other random stuff...

    Had time to work on the jeep a little...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    Put some tape on the frame, did a little measuring. Moving the cross member back was going to be close... needed about an inch.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Engine is in, T-98 is in, the cross member was bolted on it's 'center' hole, to the last hole in the strapping to the back. I then drilled new holes.
    I have two 1/4" shims per side to add to the cross member, they got a muratic bath today to get the rust and grime off them, fresh paint and will go on tomorrow.

    I took a stab at making an 'extension' for the cross-member to the transfer case mount it's that chunk of iron on the floor, 3/16" thick. It turned out really good, but didn't fit the way I envisioned, even with some grinding, so I just moved the cross member... same number of holes needed to be drilled... I just took the easy way out...

    Also put a breaker bar on the front of the crank, put the transmission in low, and spun things around a few times... it got progressively easier as things got settled in.

    The several hundred pounds of engine, transmission and transfer case made for the springs to soften a bit. Can actually put some spring in her step now.
     
  4. Sep 8, 2016
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Rochester, NY
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    Looks great
     
  5. Sep 8, 2016
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    Nice work!
     
  6. Sep 9, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
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    Its almost running! Looks great!
     
  7. Sep 16, 2016
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Doing a little pondering on 'when' in the 'lost' years this rig was built...

    SO, according to the SN here and on the frame (matching), and my engine build date DPH100

    According to the SN/VIN sheet in the official thread: !! See this thread for Serial Number or VIN questions !!

    [​IMG]

    D - Domestic
    P - 1968
    H - v6 225 2bbl
    100th day
    (no 7th dig)

    That translates to an April 10th build date on the motor, and the jeep is titled 1969.

    And I believe I am the 3rd owner per the PO's info re: his dad bought the jeep at auction ~1971...
     
  8. Sep 16, 2016
    73 cj5

    73 cj5 Not ready for the junkyard yet

    Clinton, Mississippi
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    Nice work and attention to details.
     
  9. Sep 16, 2016
    Rozcoking23

    Rozcoking23 RUN & GET BIT! 2024 Sponsor

    Stockton, CA
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    My serial # is 8305017 362397.....it has a build date of oct 1969 and is registered as 1970.
     
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  10. Sep 16, 2016
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    OK, today I spent a little more time at lunch with water, a sander and the fenders... I had a fender I was painting fall to the ground, dents and such... @#$%$! The I knocked the other over and to the ground in slow-mo... double !@#@#%$!

    So now that's all scrubbed back, things are drying and waiting for me to shoot some epoxy primer over it.

    I was working on the tailgate, and I have the standard 'rust at the bottom seam... Grrr. I've tried wire wheeling to get the bulk, then I tried some muratic acid to bubble out some of it (works) but now I have a hard bit left...

    I'm half a mind to take it and have the rest blasted out... some pancake rust in between and it's pushing the seam out away from the gate surface in a couple of spots.

    almost thought about using the spot weld cutter and removing the bottom seam and hinge-posts off the whole tailgate ... then I could get at it all... or I could open it all up with a cutting wheel, bend it back then blast it all out.... This little piece aside from the pin-hole'd floor under the tool box from a piece of carpet are the worst rust spots I have.

    I know you folks east of the west coast have to deal with a lot more rust, but how have you tackled the tail gates?
     
  11. Oct 26, 2016
    1955jeepcj5inabox

    1955jeepcj5inabox New Member

    Surprise Arizona
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    Nov 14, 2015
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    29


    $450 for the HV oil pump?
    Or did I look at the wrong one? Looking good!
     
  12. Oct 26, 2016
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    That's probably my bad for a stream of thought kind of rambling post...

    $450 for a gallon of expoxy primer, a gallon of Spruce Tip Green and the reducers, hardners, etc. to mix 'em all up...

    About $60 IIRC for the HV oil pump from TAPerformance, I bought a few other things (rods, lifters and a couple of gasket / seals) that put it a little more.
     
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  13. Jan 29, 2018
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Mounting a gas tank.

    Attempting to mount it properly any way.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    The spacer here is truck bed mat i wanted cushion space on the filler.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    This is toward the front of rig. These holes are coincidence only.
    [​IMG]

    Need to fab a way to mount tank here and a way to fab the skid in also.
    [​IMG]

    Level is not. I needed to see aprox clearance over the cross member. The sending unit outlets stick above less an inch. With poly pucks the body should be very close.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2018
    piffey263 likes this.
  14. Jan 29, 2018
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Straps holding it in place. Not comfortable with the height but that might be what i have.
     
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  15. Jan 29, 2018
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    My wooden spacers is a 12” redwood stake cut in half
     
  16. Jan 29, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Dane - it might not help but just for reference - I mounted my rear tank using the OEM intermediate brackets. You can see in the pics the bracket that is mounted on the top of the frame and hangs down to near the bottom of the frame. The center seam on the tank sits on top of the bottom of that bracket - so the center seam is 1/2-1" above the bottom of the frame.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Jan 29, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    This pic is similar to your last pic - kind of gives a reference for how much higher your tank is compared to the OEM style. Looking at the center seam in reference to frame step down of your last pic and this one - guessing you are 1-2 inches higher? Its hard to tell as the angle of the pic is a bit different, but looks like you are pretty close.

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. Jan 29, 2018
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Trying to accomodate the fuel neck. It appears to go over the frame rail. Looking more at yours.
     
  19. Jan 29, 2018
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    on my 74 the filler has a flat spot where it just(like a 1/16 or less )clears the frame rail.
     
  20. Jan 29, 2018
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    yep, that's what I'm working with. the truck mat I layed on the frame rail is about 3/8 thick. I think I have some 1/16" foam around here somewhere I can try.
    awesome. this is sort of where I was headed, but in reverse of sorts. thinking similar to a couple of piece of angle iron butted together, but so that they form a 'u-shape' instead of this z shape at the front end (cross member).

    these corner pieces at the rear have been grieving me as I am not ready to build the bumper, nor do I want the skid or the tank mounted on the bumper, so this Z shape is likely what I need...
     
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