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72 cj5 4wd problems

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by new2jeeps, Oct 14, 2013.

  1. Oct 14, 2013
    new2jeeps

    new2jeeps New Member

    Nashville, Tennessee
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    Oct 1, 2013
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    I bought this jeep a month or so ago. The guy I bought it from said the 4wd works but the bolt that goes through the shift support tube was broken and when I fix it everything will work fine. My dad made a new shoulder bolt for me and I just put it in and tried the 4wd lo. It seems fine going forward, but when I put it in reverse and back down the driveway if I push the clutch in it comes to a stop or rolls really slow like something is binding. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
     
  2. Oct 14, 2013
    new2jeeps

    new2jeeps New Member

    Nashville, Tennessee
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    Also with the transfer case in neutral and the hubs unlocked I can't turn the front driveshaft by hand.
     
  3. Oct 14, 2013
    Alan28

    Alan28 Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Châtillon en...
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    Oct 21, 2012
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    Maybe you can ask money back first...
    Unpleasant.

    I don't know about hubs I don't have them. It is better without to be sure.
    But I had some problems to change speeds, it was broken inside.
    I had to have new parts in the gear box. And change the oil.
     
  4. Oct 14, 2013
    new2jeeps

    new2jeeps New Member

    Nashville, Tennessee
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    I just figured out it only drags/binds if you're rolling backwards, reverse is irrelevant.
     
  5. Oct 14, 2013
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    How do things work in 4H and 2H?
     
  6. Oct 14, 2013
    new2jeeps

    new2jeeps New Member

    Nashville, Tennessee
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    Oct 1, 2013
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    I don't know much about cars in general, but i am good at taking things apart and putting them back together. If anyone can point me in the right direction and tell me what to look for I can probably fix it. The t-case is a Dana 20 and I believe the front axle is a Dana 30.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2013
  7. Oct 14, 2013
    new2jeeps

    new2jeeps New Member

    Nashville, Tennessee
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    Oct 1, 2013
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    2 high is great. I drove it home in 2h from an hour and a half away. I put it in 4h briefly with the hubs unlocked and the front driveshaft would turn and make a popping sound.
     
  8. Oct 14, 2013
    new2jeeps

    new2jeeps New Member

    Nashville, Tennessee
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    Oct 1, 2013
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    That sucks. I'm hoping I don't have to get into the diff or tcase until I have money for upgrades so I don't have to do it twice.
     
  9. Oct 14, 2013
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    I could be in either of the differentials, too. You could try your test in each of the transfer case ranges, with and with out the hubs locked in, in an effort to isolate the problem. Or you could pop the front diff cover off and have a peek inside. Drop the pan off the bottom of the transfer case and look in there. Might not be a bad idea to change those fluids anyway, since the JeeP is new to you and you don't know what it's been through.
     
  10. Oct 14, 2013
    new2jeeps

    new2jeeps New Member

    Nashville, Tennessee
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    Oct 1, 2013
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    Thanks wheelie. I planned on changing all the fluids asap but life keeps happening, but it just sits in the driveway until I get it up to par. I just put the tarp on it cause it's supposed to rain for a few days. When the weather clears up I'll check the things you suggested. Do I need to order gaskets for the diff and tcase or can I use some kind of gasket maker/sealant?
     
  11. Oct 14, 2013
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    This could be a separate and unrelated problem, or it could be contributing to the drag if the u joints are spent and binding up. Crawl under the JeeP and check both u joints on the front driveshaft, as well as the splines where the 2 pieces of the driveshaft are joined. Everything should be good and solid with very little or no play. Not uncommon to get a little wiggle from the front output yoke on the transfer case but, it should not be excessive. You have to look carefully to see what is actually moving.
     
  12. Oct 14, 2013
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    I'd get a good gasket for the t-case and use a sealant on the diff covers (after letting them drain thoroughly followed by spraying them clean and dry with some brake cleaner. That gear lube hangs on everything and takes forever to drain. It will impede proper sealing when using a gasket maker/sealant). The t case is very hard to get clean and dry from underneath.
     
  13. Oct 14, 2013
    new2jeeps

    new2jeeps New Member

    Nashville, Tennessee
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    Oct 1, 2013
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    How do I determine if the ujoints are bad by looking at them? I'll look for pics in Google search. As of right now I can't move the front driveshaft by hand to see if they're working right.
     
  14. Oct 14, 2013
    new2jeeps

    new2jeeps New Member

    Nashville, Tennessee
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    OK thank you.
     
  15. Oct 14, 2013
    new2jeeps

    new2jeeps New Member

    Nashville, Tennessee
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    Just added signature seeing if it worked
     
  16. Oct 15, 2013
    68BuickV6

    68BuickV6 Well-Known Member

    Hesperia, CA.
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    It works!
     
  17. Oct 15, 2013
    jeepcj

    jeepcj Member

    cincy, Ohio
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    Aug 23, 2009
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    601
    You say the front driveshaft won't turn... Did you just put the tcase in neutral and just unlock the hubs? The jeep needs to roll a few feet for everything to come unlocked, If you just unlock the hubs, they are still engaged until the jeep rolls and the hub splines unlock themselves. Once they are free and tcase in 2wd or neutral the Dshaft should move freely. Im not saying that's whats wrong, but is a BIG possibility. To check ujoints, grab your drive shaft at the ujoint (there should be no force on the dshaft, put tcase or trany in neutral) and try to push, pull side to side, up and down, there should be no play in the ujoint at all. the transfer case is sorta like the hubs as far as unlocking. when you put the tcase in 2wd from 4wd, the jeep usually needs to move a few feet to disengage. You could have a broken lockout hub, that could be the poping sound you are hearing from the front dshaft.
     
  18. Oct 15, 2013
    new2jeeps

    new2jeeps New Member

    Nashville, Tennessee
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    It was permanently in 2wd when I bought it cause the bolt in the shift support tube that goes to the shift linkage for the tcase was broken. I fixed that problem then ran into this new problem, but I did try to rotate the front driveshaft with the hubs unlocked before, but at that point I couldn't get the tcase in neutral so I thought all would be fine when I replaced the bolt. When this weather let's up I'll get out there and unlock the hubs, put it in 2h and move it a few feet then try to rotate it and see what happens. Fingers crossed:)
     
  19. Oct 18, 2013
    Geteup

    Geteup New Member

    Wheatfield Indiana
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    Correct me if i'm wrong, when you bought the jeep it was stuck in 2h then you should have been able to spin the front shaft then as long as at least one of the hubs were unlocked, assuming you have the stock open front diff. One locked or broken hub would still permit the shaft to spin. I think its a stretch for both to have gone bad at the same time. Then again, if it sat for any amount of time maybe they were left engaged and froze that way. The front driveshaft could be taken out, then try to turn the yoke on the transfer case and then try the yoke on front end. Kinda sounds like transfer case to me though. Just thinkin' out loud OP, trying to give you things to look at.;)
     
  20. Oct 18, 2013
    autotech1984

    autotech1984 Member

    Tomball Tx.
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    Oct 4, 2007
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    What kind of hubs does it have, if they say Warn Lockomatic on them then you won't be able to turn the front driveshaft if the wheels are on the ground because the hubs engage anytime power is applied to them in forward or reverse even if they are manually disengaged and they release if they are not under power. My 72 had Lockomatics on it when I purchased it and one of them had water in the auto locking mechanism and it would crack and pop if I engaged the front differential without manually locking the hubs. I found the parts and fixed mine and now they work great. But I don't think that would have anything to do with the binding that you are experiencing.
     
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