72 cj5 4wd problems

Why do you want to regear? A transmission swap to a wide ratio truck transmission with a granny gear would be a much better option, IMO. And that is more within the skill set that amateur mechanics have. Setting up axle gears will be expensive, since you'll have to pay someone to do it. And you'll have to spend money for new gears.

For now, I would advise against the disks, and just get a replacement axle with 3.73 gears.

Disks are an excellent upgrade, but the drum brakes on a '72 are also good. If you buy an axle with disk brakes, it will have the wrong gear ratio. The 3.73 ratio was only used in this axle 1972-75. You cannot use the axle unless it has the same ratio as the rear axle.

The matching rear axle to the disk brake front axle will not fit in your Jeep. And it will be a problematic axle that you want to avoid (the M20 or AMC 20).

Get your replacement 3.73 axle and install it. You can always buy another Dana 30 with disk brakes later and swap all the parts from the knuckles out to convert to disks.

Sorry if this sounds repetitive, but what you are suggesting seems wrong-headed to me, and I'm trying to make sure the issues are clear.

 

An early D30 is easily converted to discs using the same parts as converting a D27. There is, I believe a writeup on the Forum about the conversion and there is also one on the JP Mag. website with parts list. I converted the '72 D30 to discs that is in my Jeep. It's not difficult. I would think you can fins a D30 pretty cheap. Keep an eye on Craig's List.

 

Thanks timgr. With every hobby I've had I tend to get carried away and it always becomes a headache and makes everything complicated and takes the fun out of it.

 

Thanks. I've been glued to Craigslist since the straight swap was suggested. Money just got a little tighter though. My check engine light came on in my expedition and turns out I have 2 bad upstream o2 sensors and my better half just got a careless driving ticket. I'm keeping my eye on the prize and I can see a little light at the end of the tunnel.

 

My longterm plan was to regear so when it was suggested to use a 77-78 axle with different gears I thought I'd just go ahead and have the front and rear regeared lower at the same time. I'm just going to get a Dana 30 with a 373 now cause my drum brakes stop pretty damn good. In the future maybe I'll have the drums drilled. Thanks for the good advice.

 

Oh and I forgot, there's a t18 with a Dana 20 on Craigslist here for $800. Is that a good deal? It has the granny low right?

 

Lots of good advice here. So here's my belated $.02 worth. I just had the front D30 out of my 75. It is very easy to remove. I didn't disconnect the brake parts but removed them and set them to the side lines and backing plate assembly still attached. You still endup removing the hub and bearing but they are easy to re-install. I recommend replacing the U-bolts. As for disc brakes I keep thinking about it, but the kicker is that I also will have to buy new rims to fit over the disc stuff. I already have power brakes, just gotta get the vac booster sorted.

As for the T18/D20 that seems a bit high to me.. BUT probly the biggest change and most productive thing that I changed on my jeep was changing the factory 3-speed to a deep geared granny low 4-speed.

Then there's this on flea-bay. complete. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-AMC-Co...-Transfer-Case-and-Bell-Housing-/200981907143

FWIW the Ford 4-speeds seem to be the most common and would be my first choice

 

Also, if you want to keep you're current gear you can do it. All jeep cj dana 30 knukkle (the whole part that turn) are interchangeable. One of my first mod was that. I bougt a dana 30 with 3.53 gear and i wanted to keep my 3.73 , so getting trought a gear swap affraid me because i was a newbie like you. So i decided to only swap knukkle. You also need to use the outer axle shaft of the donor. For a new guy it's a good way to do it because you don't need to take all the front axle off the jeep.

I suggest while doing this mod to had a power booster and Mc from the donor.

 

There's a lot about the T-18 here on the site if you search - https://www.google.com/search?q=site:earlycj5.net T18 swap

$800 private party is not cheap. And there are a lot of different T-18 combinations, and they don't necessarily have the granny gear.

You can also read about the T-18 and other truck 4-speed swaps at the Novak site: http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/t18_t19.htm - the simplest approach is to buy a Ford T-18 and the Novak or Advance adapter kit. The Jeep T-150 or T-176 bellhousing will work with AMC engines and Ford transmissions. It can all be done with junkyard parts, if you know what to look for.

 

If the T18 w/ D20 is a Ford T18 that would be a pretty good price as you will pay more than that for just the adapter. If it's a Jeep T18 I'd pass on it unless it's the wide ratio Jeep tranny. The CJ version of the T18 isn't worth the money IMHO. I'll probably catch you-know-what for saying that, but if you are going to put in a granny geared transmission I vote for the "go big or go home" theory.

 

That looks like the '77-'79 CJ T-18 (at least the input shaft is) which would be 6.32-1 wide first gear ratio. A bit high from private party in unknown condition IMHO.
An adapter kit from T-18 to 18/20 transfer case from AA or Novak is not $700.
Nothing wrong with a CJ version as long as it is the wide ratio (6.32-1) first gear. Pretty easily adapted to other engines with some work. There are lots of ways to go if you want a T-18. I agree with a search here as pretty much all the ways have been covered before.


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Novak conversion for T-18 to Model 18 = $519.00 + shipping
AA adapter slightly more.

 

Far cry from $700.


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Wow so much information. Thanks everyone. This site is like a jeep encyclopedia.

 

If I was to go to my local pull a part to get a ford t18 which ford trucks would I look for such as 150, 250, 350? Novak says 65-91 ford trucks. And what parts should I get with it? Like the bellhousing?

 

I read the link to the t18 swaps and that's a little to much for me right now. I just need to fix my axle situation, address some motor issues, fix my steering slop, then wheel it and see what I like and don't like. I just noticed my front passenger brake line is almost torn in half so I think I'll extend my brake lines also. The only other things I need to do is figure out why my suspension seems stiff and have some sheet metal in the tub replaced where the body mounts are.

 

For the brake hoze, disq brake don't take the same as drum brake. So you may want to wait before ordering.

 

Why mess with the tranny until the driveline is sorted out? I recommend fixing what is broken, then consider upgrades after you've used it for a couple of years. My 73 with 304 V8 and T15 is decently capable as-is with 3.73 gears. If yours has an I-6 the tranny is a T14, which isn't terribly strong. But if it's working why spend the money unless you are intending to wheel really hard, in which case you don't want to break down on the trail. I'd rather have a Lock-Right in the D44 before I paid for a T-18.

I never drove the first Jeep I owned. I tore it apart so far that I ran out of money before I got it done with no possibility of affording to fix it. My current Jeep isn't all foo-foo'ed up but I can actually drive it and enjoy it, drum brakes and all. It won't win any prizes, and won't turn many heads. I can't climb or run mud pits like built-up machines but I can drive it to the store on a sunny day or chug down a logging road. It's a lot of fun and I don't have a ton of money into upgrades. No disrespect, but if you can barely afford to fix what's already broken then I'm not sure you can afford to break a bunch of stuff that is currently working. I recommend fixing what's wrong, keeping it mostly stock with a few well-placed upgrades (like a rear locker), then use it the way it is. Keep your drums adjusted, keep your front bearings and u-joints greased, she'll serve you well until you have some time in the seat to make informed decisions about further upgrades.

 

One other thing, your Jeep is going to ride stiff, rough, like a tank, etc. Jeeps didn't smooth out till 1976. You can smooth them out by replacing stock springs with after market kits. jeep toss

 

really they smoothed out?