'72 Ford Bronco Build;)

Hi Stripped the frame down, a fella on the Bronco forum gave me a link to where a guy has many Broncos which are parted out as needed. I sent him a message via facebook and he has the Frame horns available for 150 each(ouch), but beats buying a new 3000 dollar frame. I'm rather excited that I can get the parts to repair this frame~

http://www.drivenautoparts.com/

 

Are you telling the folks on the Bronco forum that earlycj5.com is the best? We set the standard for excellence.

 

Do I detect a jealousy here! I probably say ECJ5 so often your ears should be burning I just need a little info from their site to supplement my needs, they for the most part don't think I know how to do anything being a GIRL! lol However, they'll soon learn that I can bat with the best (with a little help from my ECJ5 compadres here, besides, I don't know everything by any means! So, you guys are like my "go to" for immediate help!!!! as I say, your strength gives me strength

Howard, I'm going to be here for quite some time, even if run out of projects!!

 

Well, gosh darn, I guess while waiting for the frame pieces to get here, I decided to work on the dana 44, you know, see about transplanting the "other" parts(brakes) to the 44, and whatever else, but I had to order the axle nut socket(thought sure I had one) and will get here tomorrow so says Amazon. hm, however got so darned hot, it was a short day to play

Don't worry, it's being supported by my crane, not relying on plastic saw horsies! lol

 

I'll give you about a MONTH till it's done
OK maybe two . cause your a girl

 

I figured I was doing pretty good when I built and installed a receiver hitch on my Jeep faster than you restored an entire Bronco from ground up.

 

You guys are just sooooo silly I guess that's why I just love y'all sooooo much! Darn, I'd better get busy to keep up my reputation of the Fastest restorer!!

 

I felt like sweating (NOT) so I played with my intake and see how the carburetor looks that I also got during that buy out.

I Like aluminum but always looks trashy after a while~ so I decided to clean it up and have a couple questions

I bead blasted the intake, my media is more like fine fine glass now. I think the intake came out nicely.

1) how would it be to put a clear coat on the intake? and edelbrock makes a nice intake bolt kit
2) When it comes to the intake manifold gasket, I had put a blockoff plate for the crossover, this one didn't have the blockoff for the crossover, is it necessary?




it says on the box it's a manual choke, but has an electric thing on it, so makes me wonder if this is the box the carburetor came in. The guy (Tim) said he only put about 500 miles with this carb then switched to efi, then he made the decision to pull the entire drivetrain and spend a gazzilion dollars on all new things.

 

It's definitely a Truck Avenger carb with the u-shaped bowl vent. It's funny, the Holley listing for that part number shows an electric choke: Holley 0-90470 470 CFM Holley Off-Road Truck Avenger Carburetor

It's possible they changed that somewhere along the way. You can by kits to convert manual choke Holleys to electric: Holley 45-223 Choke Conversion Kit That may have been done to this carburetor.

 

Maybe someone changed it to electric, which if fine by me Thanks Fireball! whoa, that's a pricey carburetor!

Ok, I've been wrestling with this darn Dana 44, As I tilted it forward (pinion down) with the yoke out, a measure of some nasty mix of 90wt and water came out, so I pulled the cover and actually looks pretty good, but I can't turn the spider gears? Shouldn't I be able to turn the little peckers?lol To get the axles out, mainly the short one, took some effort to get out; the axle u-joints are all but gone, but I was going to use the one out of my "New" dana 30, so I'm not worried. I'd rather not delve into this ~ ideas other than pull it completely apart??

 

Looks like a Trac lok to me.

 

Cool, I have a Trac lok!!!

 

It turns smoothly and easily, I'll put the yoke back on~ I may pull the carrier and look a little closer, perhaps replace the inner seals.

 

There is soooo much dirt in the long tube! I'm here, it'd be dumb not to at least put those inner seals in.






This might look a little nasty, I should have wiped it off before a photo shoot. It looks ok for my purposes seeing how I'll never put it in 4 wd, or just to test it to make sure it a least works.


Carrier race, a little funny looking


didn't think I'd ever get the hubs off!


I've had enough for today, kids and grandkids coming in for a little pool party for ending of the summer and start of the school year~ heaven only knows what's going to go on this year!
dne'

 

1) I just use VHT "Engine Paint" Clear Coat when I want to shoot on raw aluminum like that. Just do as many coats as makes you happy.
2) Nope, you don't need a blockoff plate, the Edelbrock manifold doesn't cross exhaust through the manifold.

Four Bits of advice for you, when it comes time to drop that Manifold on the engine:
1) Don't buy the Stainless Steel Bolt kit, if that's the one you're looking at. It's not worth the money, just get the Nitro Black ones. I've done the Stainless Bolt kit a couple of times from various vendors, and honestly, they're just suboptimal, and you end up with all kinds of stripped threads and other issues.
2) When it comes time to drop that Intake onto the engine, take your intake gasket kit, and take those two little rubber or cork gaskets for the China Wall, and throw them right in the garbage. Get a tube of "The Right Stuff", and lay about a 1/4" fat bead across the tops of the china walls instead. You'll thank me later.
3) On Windsor Fords, like the one you've got there, I *Highly* recommend putting studs in the water inlet instead of using bolts. Just get good quality Studs, and use thread sealer (not loctite, THREAD SEALER) on them before you screw them into the manifold, and then use a good flanged style nut on them, when you put the Thermostat Housing/Water Neck on. Again, you'll thank me later.
4) Get yourself a good Phenolic Spacer to put under the carburetor, instead of using a metal one with gaskets. Like thus https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1405 if 1" would cause hood clearance issues for you, they make them in a 1/2 thick version as well. But using an open center 1" phenolic spacer on a dual-plane manifold like you've got there, does two things: A) The Ford Windsors are known a bit for the carb getting hot, if you mount them direct to the manifold (maybe not worse than a SBC or SBM, but my experience is with Fords), so the phenolic gets the carb up off the carb pad, and puts an insulator between the carb pad and carb, so the base of the carb isn't directly heated. And B) Having that 1" of open space underneath the carb, but above the carb pad, actually helps with fuel atomization and evening out fuel distribution, before it gets sucked down into the individual runners on the manifold. (Bizzarely, apparently an open plenum single plane, works better with a "closed" spacer, with 4 individual holes in it. Engine Masters did an episode where they explored this on the dyno, and the numbers bear out, for both combinations).

 

Wow, thank you Faulken!!! I'll take your advise!!! That really helps me a great deal and I do graciously appreciate it!!
dne'

 

Kids are arriving early, so, until next time, next week, same bat time; same bat channel, I'll be back!!
dne'