73 CJ5 was running great, started sputtering and now wont start

73 CJ5 was running great, started sputtering and now wont start. Getting fuel to carburetor, got spark from coil and all plugs. Rebuilt the carburetor and still wont start. Has new plugs, wires and new fuel filter. Plz help.

 

timing correct? nice blue spark? what engine? flooded?

 

Haven't checked timing. As for the spark, wasn't a nice spark. More like barely a spark. 3.8.

 

Sounds like ignition, not fuel.
Is it humid out?

Traditional points or HEI?

If points, I'd start with cap, points, condenser, coil...

If HEI, try the module or the cap.

Edit: I just re-read your first post where it said coil...
Do you have another rig you could pull a coil off of to try?

 

Not humid. Live in Ga. Has HEI. How can I tell if the module or cap is the problem?

 

Start by looking inside the distributor cap and see if the carbon button in the middle of the cap that makes contact with the rotor is worn away. Also check for small black carbon tracks in the cap and check the terminals for erosion/corrosion and same on the rotor.

 

Ok. Ty. I'll look this weekend. . Thanks for all the help

 

Plugged exhaust will keep it from starting. You said you had spark and fuel.. Try pouring some fuel into the carb intake and see if it will fire

 

I've checked timing. Pouring fuel in carburetor still wont fire. Put all new connectors on coil and distributor. No dust or shavings inside cap. When it does start. It runs rough and when I give it gas it dies. If I just let it idle it runs for maybe 30 seconds then dies.

 

Tested the coil, only getting 5 volts. Think it should b 12ish. Gonna get a new coil tomorrow

 

How did you check the coil? I have always used an ohm meter. It may be that your 73 has a ignition ballast resistor which would explain the 5 volts. I am not sure what year Jeep stopped using the resistor.

 

Used a fluke 322. Where would that resistor be located if it had one?

 

A '73 will have a resistance wire as a ballast resistor. If you look at the '73 wiring diagram here http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/GW_wiring.html (page 2) it will show you the under-hood wiring for a Wagoneer from that year. The ignition circuit will be the same for the Wagoneer and the CJ. To see the wiring diagram for a CJ, you will need to buy the FSM for 1973.

The resistance wire is located in the wiring harness. It is typically a nichrome wire, and spliced in to the harness with butt connectors, covered with duct tape (really). The coil end should be right into the connector at the coil, and it should have something like 10 ohms resistance over its entire length. If you have a problem with the resistance wire, the easiest fix is to replace it with a discrete ballast resistor, ie this one from a '70s Dodge. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4588917&cc=1083451&jnid=468&jpid=0

 

Mine don't have a ballist resistor. It goes straight from harness to the coil.

 

It's a resistive wire.

 

It is possible it is a coil that was replaced that has a built in ballest resistor. You would have to remove it and read what is printed on it.

 

Unplug the connector at the distributor cap and measure the voltage on the ignition wire. With the key "ON" you should read battery voltage (12 plus volts) when the resistance wire is cold. Without a load on the wire it should be same as battery voltage. If not then I would start looking at connections along that loom all the way to the ignition switch.

 

He sez he has HEI.

 

Is it true HEI with the coil built into the cap or just electronic ignition? I'm confused. You're making it sound as if you have a traditional coil.

 

A picture is worth a thousand words.