74 Cj5 Renegade Restoration... Progress & Pics

Sorry... No. Keeping all the original stuff. Here's the original, but very brittle. Doubt the glue would still stick. Owners Manual in worse shape, binding falling apart, paper sticking together and crumbling. Wish I had the Witco top, got the directions to it! Cool thing the last record of mileage in Jan. '91, jeep had 22,528 miles and gas was cheap. Funny people kept mileage records like this, my grandmother use to do same. Guess I'm glad he did so it proves the history of the jeep.

 

Where can I get all of them?

 

It came in the box with the hubs. Don't know if it still does - maybe. Somebody may be reproducing it.

At the dealership where I worked, they would put the flanges in the hub's box and leave the sticker in there. Up to the customer if they wanted to use the sticker. In '74, Jeep started to offer Warn locking hubs on the regular option list. They might have put the sticker on the dash from the factory then - don't know.

None of the intermediates came with the shifter sticker. The shift pattern was marked on the transfer case knob.

 

Got a few DMs and posts here asking about where I got all my decals and badges... In short, searching all online. Best of my memory the following places: Ebay - Shift Pattern, Emissions, and Locking Hub (pay attention to the lockout icon there are two types and two colors), 'Jeep' Seat Belt stickers (note: these are not the aluminum stamped like NOS, just a sticker. but look good on the belt clasp). Partsdude4x4.com - V8 and AMC badges. They are heavy aluminum and match 100% to my originals. CJ-5 Badge - I forget but think Summit and it's a Crown part. VIN decal - got here through Maury.

Now I do have one decal that I am stuck on and can't find anywhere (including Collins). I will probably have it made. It's the Air Cleaner filter element. I have original but it is very brittle and I am afraid it will crack if I reuse.

EDIT: Good News for those looking for this Air Cleaner decal. I spoke with Collins jeep. They are going to use my decal to recreate them. And then sell them on their website. I get two free ones! But you should see them on their site in a month or so. Edit: Attaching the reprint from Collins. got t this week.




View attachment 67528

 

One step forward twenty back! Transmission not supposed to be sitting on the ground! Was testing out the clutch adjustment...no matter what it would not disengage. Went through all the typical checks. Nothing. So I had to drop the Transmission (Again). This time was harder since the body is now on. I think i buggered up the pilot bushing which just was hanging up the input shaft. Or overtighten the pressure plate. Checking more in the morning. Just not what I wanted to do this weekend!

 

Chris that sucks, I can’t imagine having to have to do that, stuff happens though, you will get it right, it is what it is, I hope it doesn’t take you long to figure out.
Thanks for sharing, all of your posts are very informative and helpful, even if some things don’t go right it’s going to be soon enough, just a little more time.

 

,

 

Well...nothing stood out at me as "WRONG"...after pulling it all back down to the flywheel. I was actually hoping for that big flashing light saying you stupid *** did "THIS" wrong. But nothing.

I've now read every posting, blog, youtube on the topic. Running down all those items they suggest. The pressure plate was over tightened. I saw online that this could lead to a clutch not disengaging. But I just can't see how that would occur. Pressure plate to Flywheel can't "Block" the fingers if over tightened. But Guess I'm wrong. Maybe that was the cause. Pilot bushing did get mangled when I installed. So I really think that is my issue. The ID of the bushing got compressed somehow going in, and the input was hanging up on that. Tranny went in HARD and I drew it in last few inches by the bolts. I'm waiting for new bushing and will clean up the crank to keep O.D. and I.D true. Got to get old bushing out first! It won't budge. The bushing is the only thing I see as an issue now. Disc was installed right way (thin/flat hub side to engine). All matching parts - Centerforce diaphragm PP, Clutch, TB. Double checked part number to application all good. Linkage adjusted right. So hope once reassembled it all just works. Anything I'm missing please chime in.

 

Did you try the clutch alignment tool and grease trick to pop the bushing?

 

Picking up a new alignment tool tomorrow. I can't find the .75 size with my old tool for it today. So ordered new tool with all the adapters. Used a blind hole puller this afternoon and it just slipped off and didn't work. Slide hammer puller tomorrow too. and if that all doesn't work, I'll cut 3/4 through it and break the bushing with chisel. I'll get it out or cut the F' out of the Crank trying < kidding > !

 

It’ll come out,

Here is something with transmission I’m experiencing:

Rolling chassis when drive line comes around to a complete revolution it does a little bump up at the end of transfer case, you can barely see it happening but it does, you can feel it too.
Not sure if it’s because it’s been sitting so long and it hasn’t really gotten lubrication. Is it in that position where if it was up and running and you put it in 4 wheel drive it sometimes comes out kind of wierd! Kinda feel like you have to rocket the Jeep a little to get it completely out of 4 wheel? Idk, Any ideas

 

.
You should post up in the main forum. Not here, which is off topic. More eyes on that forum area then on my post area...which has limited attention. Hell I'm probably in the wrong area too. Might get more help there. But from what I understand on your post. Which I really don't understand what you mean yet. It sounds normal to me. Bumping (rocking jeep) a t-case into and out of gear is not unusual at all. I had to always aggressively bump (use of throttle) d20 into Low and out of Low. Usually into Hi too. You say rolling chassis so assume not running. So things never work as intended by manually turning the driveline. You should wait till running to triage major drive line issues. But, it could be drive shaft interference, R&P clashing in a spot, bearing flat spot, or nothing at all. I know this probably doesn't help much. Post to main forum with a bit more detail on what you have going on and you may get more responses. And I'm not sure I'm really following your issue yet so the details may help.

 

That’s what I’m trying to explain, you did it better, I think that’s what it is!

 

Ive replied in many posts that’s are similar to your issue. End play of your engine should be checked and recorded somewhere. Any time the transmission is bolted back up, the end play should be checked and should match the recorded dimension. If this would have been done in this case we wouldn’t be talking about this today. We would have worked it out after you told us that the transmission needed to be pulled into place with bolts. It’s a good thing that there is an issue with the clutch, an easy fix. I’ve seen a few crankshaft thrust bearings, main bearings and cranks severely damaged from no end play. Everything goes easier the second time around.

 

No clue what end play is... I've done well over the years with several tranny swaps / clutch work with pulling them in with bolts. Yes for sure this one didn't work out. That's life of a shade tree mechanic!

 

All done. Transmission slid right in this time with no effort. The Bushing was a pain in the *** getting out. ended up cutting it with a burr tool and hitting with chisel. Put all back together, ran the jeep through all the gears (on jack stands) and shifts like butter. Granted no load on it. But also no noises and works as expected. Now all I have to finish up is the electrical gremlins. And still waiting for my seats to get done.

 

Well done.

 

Way to go!

 

Friday was the first time I drove the jeep. Engine / Carb tuned and running great. Transmission shifts smooth. No noises. Steering was perfect. Granted only went maybe 25mph so no death wobble (yet). Left to do, flares, lockouts, shocks, seats/visors/pad, some paint touch ups, and wiring...I waved the white flag on wiring and took jeep back to the shop who did paint/body work and they have a guy that knows custom/classic car's wiring. For all I did, I just couldn't tie the Spartan signal into the Painless harness plus a few odds and ends. I have a "Temp" seat so I can drive it. Originals are still being restored. Here is a pic just before I drove around the block.

 

That looks really nice