Another Rebirth For The 3b

there are some really interesting ideas here. it sounds like something i would like to do, with no matching parts and a lot of ambition

 

Artists is the word!

 

If you want to see a lot of ambition, Spend a few hours (OK, days) going through Ryan's previous build threads:

• Varg In Jeep's Clothing
• The " Fat Hippo " Utility Bike Build

 

WOW!

 

What to do when you need a metal lathe and you only have a wood lathe? Adapt and overcome.
Grinder, file, sandpaper, and patience.





This will be part of the shaft that will feed power to the PTO winch.

 

What kind of tool did you use on a wood lathe to cut the metal? How did you hold the tool?

 

Why do you ask these obvious questions? He uses his mind to will the steel in place and shoots lasers out of his eyes to shape it. DUH!

 

And a little black magic.

 

Just a grinder resting against the tool rest. I cut the initial groove with a cutoff wheel, and removed the rest of the material with a general grinding wheel. It takes a massive amount of patience to only hit the high spots when it gets cam-shaped. A flat file cleans it up the rest of the way, and some sandpaper removed any chatter marks. It’s a long process, continually stopping and checking with the calipers.

This end began as a giant mass of CV joint cup. I removed most of the material first with a chop saw and cutoff wheel on the bench.

I wish!!

 

Any time things like this pop out of a wood shop, I'm pretty sure black magic and mind lasers are involved:




Having been to his shop, Ryan does all of this stuff with hand tools and a press.

Mind boggling.

 

WOW. that guy's amazing. well done, Ryan. you've achieved capital R. one cowbell.

 

Hand tools and a press.......your results may vary.

 

You guys are too much. You make do with what you have, or you do without!

 

The mind boggling part is when he says " Took me a couple hours last night". Or does that mean "I stayed up all night"?

 

I’m not allowed to stay up late anymore.
The sneaking-into-bed-at-3am hippo build killed that run.

 

The right axle on these (and most front wheel drive cars) is an axle shaft that exits the transaxle, and has a carrier bearing that is clamped to the engine block. In the picture, the axle is on the left, the carrier bearing is center, and the inner CV joint is the big cylinder.



I devised a way to utilize the 4wd selector mechanism from the scrap parts of the NP203.

That shaft will get repurposed as the driveshaft for the PTO winch. That big cup is what I turned down yesterday to accept another section of front axle tubing, complete with the surface where another carrier bearing would go.

The ID of the carrier bearing just happens to be within a few thousandths of the ID of the 203 shift hub, so that shaft will get pressed in, centered, and welded.

The rest of the inside of the hub will get two bearings and a shaft inside that’ll get a sprocket that will get welded to the hub.... That part is just theory for now, but it’ll feed a chain drive to the Koenig winch that has the input on the driver’s side.

The operation should work just like a standard PTO winch. Throw the OD box or t-case into neutral, and I’ll have winch speeds of 1-4 forward and R through the automatic. I can even adjust the final drive speed with different sprocket ratios.



Also, I spent most of the morning redoing the jack shaft. I built the first one with intentions on using the ‘01 engine/trans, and the ‘95 uses a different input shaft design. This older one worked well, since the ‘95 uses a heavier shaft, and I was (barely) able to press it into the flange with heat. The friction fit alone might be enough to hold this, but I’ll run a bead around the inside of the flange for good measure.

 

I stopped by the tractor store today after my vaccination and grabbed some sprocket parts to mess with.

The “PTO” output of this assembly will have a 2.49:1 final drive, so I got sprockets that will gear up the PTO speed 2.5 times (40/16) to match engine speed in high gear.

 

I’m still working through this winch drive in my head.
I had to trim the hub down a little...



...then use my poor-man’s mill. Lay my body across the grinder and spin the workpiece under it until it all hits minimally and equally...



I ran back to the tractor store this morning and exchanged the 40-tooth sprocket for a 32-tooth version. Gearing should still be adequate at 1:2.25, and it’s 2” less in diameter. Space constraints might be an issue, better to go as small as possible.

That dog ring hub got centered and tacked on the new sprocket.



Something like this, but the big sprocket will likely be lower.



I’m waiting on the bearings to assemble this, but as a mock-up, this is how it will go together. Unlocked...



The selector is spring loaded. Locked....

 

All this stacking transfer cases like flapjacks reminds me of a 3B that was in either Peterson's 4wd or Fourwheeler. The guy had two Dana 18's, one was backwards for an overdrive, the other was regular with low gears. Dana 60 axles, full width with 7:17 gears. All of that was suspended on some hydraulic flap cylinders off a 1950's airliner converted to be air operated, complete with individual controls for each corner... Hint hint... Carry on.