Body Mount Locations Floor Questions

hello everyone

I went to look at a 1960 or so says the title with a swapped v6. My questions are

1. Where are the mount locations and are they equal on both sides of the frame?
I have two on the right n one on the left

2. If a tub is good aside from floors is it worth saving? Has repairs that are not great and hat channel is about gone.

Thanks everyone

 

1) your tub mounts are correct.

2) it depends on ones skills and tenacity as to whether the sheet metal is worth saving. Replacements are available for a lot of pieces including the floors. And at one extreme, there are more than a few people that have completely fabricated a Jeep from scratch. IMO, that takes both a lot of skill/time and access to some real metal working equipment. Welding in new floors/hat sections isn't too demanding but if you have to pay someone else to do it I can easily see where you might end up with a bill approaching a good portion of the cost of a replacement tub.

 

For east coast Jeepers, we would often welcome a tub that only needed floors. I know I have recontructed tubs that had little more than the cowl top and parts of the inner fenders left from original.
-Donny

 

that all depends on your skills and time

 

Thanks not sure how to put up pictures here.

I have no issue welding things but I’m not super at fab work. Want to learn though so.

Can floors be done with out totally removing the tub? Or is it better to take it off?

 

You have hat channels that go on under the floor panels. I would think it would be easier if tub removed.

 

I kinda figured, need new hat channel too lol

 

look here
1951-1971 Jeep CJ5 | Willys M38A1

 

Thanks that’s a big help. Doesn’t look too hard to do been doing a lot of search and reading the builds threads here

 

Now my CJ is a farm,work,play jeep, not a show jeep, but I didn't buy 1 repair panel.
I sorced it all out of scrap pile, or friends donations.
Some of the China atv s are shipped in steel cage crates that match the under tub channel
close. Got 2 complete crates at local shop. Free, but I do buy some stuff from him.
Used a road sign and a window air conditioner steel for most of my floor work.
Bought a little 1in square tubbing from local metal scrap yard,cheep.
To do any kind of decent job tub must come off. Heck I had mine upside down, and on both sides during repair. It does not look correct, but its probably stronger than stock.

 

That’s what I was hoping for as I have a space issue. I was just making sure it wasn’t missing.

 

I also have some of the Chinese and Japanese shipping crate "hat channel" from outboard engine crates. Its about 26 ga that you can just about cut with a scissors! The floors need something substantial as they support most of the body, and help reduce frame twist. Street sign posts or angle iron welded together has been my backyard go-to metal for floor support in the past. The last couple floors were done with MidWest Military's channel sets. They fit perfectly!
-Donny

 

Do the Midwest ones require wood under the bolt holes or do they have sleeves?

Is classic enterprises a good place? They seem to have the panels I’ll need