Body Tub Options For '66 Cj5 ?

Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by teletech, Aug 9, 2017.

  1. Aug 9, 2017
    teletech

    teletech Member

    Live Oak, CA
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    Sad story, but let's pick up just after I rolled on the freeway...
    The body tub is rust-free, but with a lot of twists and folds starting about at the front of the rear wheel-wells and getting worse as you move to the pillar. I could fix it if I really had to, but I'd see every imperfection for the rest of my life, so I'm suspecting I'll end up replacing at least part of the tub.it's an ill wind that blows nobody good
    I'm in California where original non-rusty tubs are pretty available, a quick check of CL says I can get a complete body for $1500 that will be in pretty decent shape. I also notice Kaiser-Willys sells complete body kits for $4k delivered. I don't know if these are the same as the MD Juan and/or the omix-ada tubs? Anyway, one or more concerns are making new tubs and the temptation to have a nice new body without all the random holes and dings that Jeeps tend to accumulate over the years is palpable, plus the more modern rustproofing and not having to go find a donor, transport it, blah blah blah. So, what have people found with the tubs for that series?
     
  2. Aug 9, 2017
    Twin2

    Twin2 wasn't me Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    now if it was me . I would go with a good used tub . and start from there 71 and earlier
    there was a good build tread with a MD tub kit . but photobucket has erased all the pictures :(
    MD Juan Tub Kit 1969 CJ5 4CLY (7/2016)
     
  3. Aug 9, 2017
    Bob-The-CJ

    Bob-The-CJ Member

    Waxahachie, Texas
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    You can get good tubs in Texas for below $400 all day. I would have to think on it pretty hard but I would lean toward to an original used tub.
     
  4. Aug 9, 2017
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    AFAIK all the new steel tubs available today come from MD Juan in the PI. You get to pick your distribution channel ...

    Any CJ-5 tub '55-75 can be made to work with some detail changes. M38A1 tubs will work too. Your frame carries the sequential serial number, so tub swapping should have no registry consequences - just attach your original VIN tag to the new tub.

    A '72 tub is essentially the same as a '71 except for the Jeep logo. IMO there's no reason to pass by a deal on a '72-73-74-75 tub if it comes along. '76-on changes a lot, but could be made to work with new floors. Possible you could combine the floors from your wreck with a '76-up tub and have an excellent result. It depends on how much manipulation you aare willing to do. If you want a tub with zero changes, you need to stay in the 64-ish to 70-ish with an under-seat fuel tank. But a later or earlier tub pre-76 will have only minor differences.

    I'd say, considering your location, just be picky about the condition and not so picky about the year. Sheet metal on these Jeeps was not pristine even from the factory, so I would not worry too much about showing spot welds and panel edges and such ...
     
  5. Aug 9, 2017
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor Sponsor

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    I'd check to see what Daryl has in stock! I would pick up am original tub any day over a replica tub. They are slim pickings in my part of the country.
    -Donny
     
  6. Aug 9, 2017
    teletech

    teletech Member

    Live Oak, CA
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    Oh, I can be choosy around here for sure. A couple grand will get me a complete vehicle with minimal rust, but I'd feel bad about killing another Jeep just to fix mine.
    I have to wait until the weekend to know for sure what it looks like, but a couple hundred miles away I found a completely disassembled, straight, and sandblasted complete set of metal from a '67. At a reasonable price even. The only thing that worries me is the owner had it sandblasted and then let it sit, so I'll have surface rust to contend with.
    Do I just chemically treat it or do something mechanical? I'd be tempted to go with a baking-soda blast.

    Having removed most of the smaller panels, I'm actually thinking it might be reasonable to save the tub I have. I at least have to try even if it's a bit more time consuming or expensive.
    It's still worthwhile to buy the full set even if I don't need the tub considering the cost of the fenders and such.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2017
  7. Aug 10, 2017 at 6:33 AM
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Sponsor Sponsor

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    You have a lot of options for what you are going to do. California has the best bodies in America, I think anyway, so I would look around for an original body, or one to use for parts. I live in the rust belt, and good bodies are hard to find. I like your comment about holes that get drilled in Jeeps, the PO put a 72 body on the Jeep I bought, and it was pretty rusty underneath, but looked OK after it was painted. When I took the body off the front part of the tub floor was unusable, the box was OK. I found a donor 66, V6 with only 27K miles, and no holes in the firewall that was not stock. I cut the body in half at the lowest point in front of where gas tank sits. I then welded the 72 box to the 66 fire wall and made a whole new floor pan out of 11 gage stock, heavier gage is easier to work with, then welded 1" X 1" box tube all along the bottom edge of the front section for added strength. Jeeps are easy to fix they are mostly flat sides so if you can weld it is fun to make your own tub. Good Luck what ever to chose to do. Rick
     
  8. Aug 10, 2017 at 6:23 PM
    teletech

    teletech Member

    Live Oak, CA
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    I got on my tub with a hi-lift jack today and am pleased to report that I think it will survive!
    Getting the floors and sides just behind the pillars straight is going to be fussy, but I'd rather do that than a body swap and it keeps the original spirit of the family Jeep more intact. :)
     
  9. Aug 10, 2017 at 7:52 PM
    CJ Joe

    CJ Joe Truckhaven Tough!

    Vista, CA
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    Take a look at J&W Auto Wreckers, Antelope, CA ('bout an hour south of ya) J&W Jeep
    They have acres of jeeps. Get the old original steel.
     
  10. Aug 10, 2017 at 8:04 PM
    teletech

    teletech Member

    Live Oak, CA
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    OK, the overwhelming sentiment is for original steel and so shall it be.
    I'll spend a bit of time getting the tub pretty straight and weld up a few body nuts that pulled out around the transmission cover.
    Once that is done, hire out the finishing hammer and dolly work since mine is on the unrefined side.
     
  11. Aug 10, 2017 at 8:56 PM
    Focker

    Focker Rust Never Sleeps Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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  12. Aug 11, 2017 at 8:51 PM
    teletech

    teletech Member

    Live Oak, CA
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    Well, I wasn't going to go there, partly because it's embarrassing but;
    here's a summary:
    DSC_1351-small.JPG

    here's the driver's side after gross straightening:
    DSC_1377.JPG
     
  13. Aug 11, 2017 at 8:54 PM
    Focker

    Focker Rust Never Sleeps Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    Wow... So glad that you're ok!
     
  14. Aug 11, 2017 at 11:23 PM
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Member

    Sacramento...
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    Wow! Just wow on the pics, really glad you are ok and seem unscathed. Was there a cage in that tub? Was it tied to the frame? I'm really curious to know how well the cage performed.

    I just bought some manifolds from this guy and this tub is in decent shape, not as nice as yours was but not bad either. Really nice guy if that helps. $650 for rolling chassis, I asked him and he said that means tub as well.
    Military jeep rolling chassis

    I've been to J&W in Antelope twice now. They do have several good tubs, but both times I went I was shocked at the prices they wanted for stuff.

    There is a 70's tub in Chico right now for $250 but the rear fenderwells have been comp cut so it would take a bit of work to bring it back to original looking.
    70's CJ-5 tub obo
     
  15. Aug 11, 2017 at 11:37 PM
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    What did you hit?..............interesting imprint on the RS inner fender well panel..........looks like the header imprinted in there....which means it also took a pretty good hit from the side. I think someone with a frame straightening fixture and heat could get that body back to be manageable..........but doing cold will never get you there as the metal has to stretch to get back where it was..................you could try J&W in Antelope but they just don't see much early stuff anymore.
     
  16. Aug 11, 2017 at 11:37 PM
    teletech

    teletech Member

    Live Oak, CA
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    No cage, just a factory(type?) bar and that worked just fine, didn't even distort the tub around the bar supports. I'll say a cage might have prevented some of the tub damage, of course it might have just as easily made it worse, it might have also encouraged the vehicle to keep rolling as the sheetmetal had lots of give and also gave a lot of energy to the road to cushion things and slow the roll/skid . Overall, for this particular type of rollover I don't think a cage would have improved my situation in the slightest. If someone had driven into me or if I went down a hill, a cage might have helped.

    Thanks for looking out, I'm supposed to hear from a guy this weekend who has a complete disassembled body set and windshield, etc. that's nice and straight. If that falls through I'll call the M38 guy and see what's what.

    Of course, there are so many Jeeps that want some love, it's hard not to adopt one while shopping for parts. For example, the yellow with pinstripe one here for just $1500...
    Jeep Cj5's for sale or possible trade
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2017 at 12:01 AM
  17. Aug 11, 2017 at 11:56 PM
    teletech

    teletech Member

    Live Oak, CA
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    Hood flew open and in braking downhill I lost control, so just hit the road.
    That fender was already pounded-in to clear the header, though it looked a bit more "custom fit" after the wreck. Motor runs fine and everything seems in order apart from the radiator and fan.
    I straightened the bumper, I have yet to measure the frame carefully, but my first pass suggests that it's not far off, at least not far from usual for these vehicles years on.
    I think a guy who is good with a body hammer&dolly set can get close and then a little heat and cool will shrink it to fit. I could do it passably, but I know I'd see it every time I walked up to the vehicle so want a pro.
     
  18. Aug 12, 2017 at 6:31 AM
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Sponsor Sponsor

    I live South of...
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    Glad you are OK, I would have peed my pants a little I think. What a shame nice body, no rust. Those parts would be great hear in the rust belt, they could make great patches for rusted out Jeeps. Sorry for your accident, at least your Jeep is salvageable. Good Luck
     
  19. Aug 12, 2017 at 4:30 PM
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor Sponsor

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    Wow, That was a nasty roll-over! I'm pleasantly suprised you had no serious injury from that one. Sorry for the damage, but a Jeep is a lot easier to fix than a person. The simple rollbar did a great job!
    -Donny
     
    47v6 likes this.
  20. Aug 12, 2017 at 6:39 PM
    rusty

    rusty Well-Known Member

    norfolk,va
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    Glad your ok. Sorry about the Jeep. I'm sure you will get it fixed back up.
     

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