Bottom Spring Plate Shock Bolt Snapped

Putting on a 2.5" lift, well I was taking off the bottom side of the leaf spring plate where the shock bolts onto and snapped the bolt off, both sides, dammmm, so do I have to get a new plate or can I take out the broken bolt
Cheers

 

The spring plate is specific to the axle tube diameter and the spring width. If the one you need is available aftermarket, buy new ones. The pins for the shocks are welded to the spring plates, and unless you have access to a shop that can make the pins and weld new ones on to the plate, off-the-shelf replacements will be cheaper. Looks like you want 801735 and 801736.

Leaf Spring Plate - Jeep-CJ5 - universal

 

I believe welded, kinda stupid set up, seems a lot of people snap these

 

So I take it I need to replace the plate

 

When I worked at a Jeep dealer in California I don't recall them breaking off, or selling many replacements. It's just old and rusty and you don't know how it's been treated in the past.

 

Hahaha you also dont put tons and tons of salt down on the road, way up north it's a part of life, do cars even rust in California, lol

 

According to our newest Forum member, rusted Jeeps actually exist in California.

 

If it is rusty in California it came from the Rust Belt, every car I have ever seen from California was in mint condition as far a rust is concerned. We brought a 55 Nomad back to Detroit in 65 from LA. and when I stripped it, the body looked like a brand new car with no paint on it. Of course in 1965 the Nomad was only 10 years old.
You should be able to find someone around you that can cut the broken bolt off you spring plate and weld a new one on for you, and not for lot of money, I would think. That is if you don't find what you need here, try putting an ad in Wanted to buy section of Classified. Good Luck

 

walcks has them too
Search results for: 'spring plates with shock mount'

 

thanks all,

 

Don't know about the north, but in SoCal the cars do not rust unless near the shore. When they rust, it's also different from the body cancer you see due to road salt. Surface rust is common, since the intense sunlight burns through the original coatings and exposes the steel underneath. This is pretty benign, and today the look is popular as "patina" - remove the loose rust, spray some matte clear coat and call it done. I have seen cars there that were left with the windows open and the condensation rusts through the roof. Parked outside by the shore accelerates the "patination" due to the intense sun and salt air, but you don't have to go far inland to escape that. Realize that the definition of a desert is less than 10" of rain annually, and San Diego gets something like 12-13" annually. LA is not much wetter. Plus there are a lot of people there, and lots of cars, and the cars stay on the road for a long time. So there are plenty of worn out but rust-free examples available for your project. There's also the "car culture" since you can't get around without one. Plenty of parking but no rapid transit, and the distances discourage taking slow-moving buses or cycling. Cycling is big if you live close to work, but you'd likely use your car to go shopping. So if you have that car with the rusty roof, you'd likely scrap it and find a better example, unless it's something totally rare. And eastern cars go to the scrapyard, or car auction to be sold to unsuspecting buyers at shady used car lots.

 

you see alot of that here in va . norther cars on lots
when I was shopping for a new used car . I wanted to see the carfax
if it was from north of here I would walk away . lots of salesman didn't like my response

 

We got Motors, Transmissions, and Axels, but Ain't Got Nobody's in Detroit. Car Bodies that is.

 

There are some things I miss about California.

 

Hey Rick... Maybe ' cuz we've got most of the Machinists & Welders that built them, Motors, Transmissions, and Axles that is. Your right on about the body's though, LoL . I not sure about your neck of the woods , but East of you , they plow our roads with SALT !!!
Anyway, Donnie, I agree with Twin2... Buy new ones from Walcks. They are inexpensive & good OEM quality.
Be sure to spray & lube ALL 1970s nuts & bolts with Liquid Wrench & let soak for overnite. Or a little heat , works well too. God Speed .... you'll be good to go . ---- Lockman

 

I'm going to put a plug in for always using a good penetrating oil prior to any disassembly. I generally start a week or so ahead of planned work, and give everything that's coming apart with a shot of "Kroil". do not know what is in the stuff, but it works better than anything else I've tried. I've even used it on exhaust manifold bolts without snapping any studs off. Trick is to spray it when warm, run until hot, let it cool a little and give it another shot. A week later, everything is generally less than white knuckle tight.

 

Back to the original question. Parts stores used to sell a weld on shock bolt, Or stud?
Get out the grinder, and welder (I still use a stick), and repair ?