Brake Cylinders- Repair Or Replace?

I tore into my brake system yesterday. I found rust in the empty master cylinder and the wheel cylinders are shot too. The brake hardware and springs seem to be in good shape although I’ll replace the shoe keeper springs with new stuff. The question I have is should I rebuild the cylinders or replace them? They are not original (Wagner ?) , to my knowledge, but I’m certain they have been on there for a while. I’m going to do some more digging into their part numbers to see if I can figure out what brand they are. I know sometimes the older stuff is better than what is available new, but I don’t know how much “older” these parts are.

 

I've never been a huge fan of rebuilding master or wheel cylinders unless their bores are pristine and will clean up with NO pitting remaining. The manufacturers do not make oversize cups for either so it's like putting standard rings in an oversize cylinder after boring/honing. The exception is on rare vehicles or components that are no longer available - then I would go to someone like White Post Restoration that bores and sleeves the cylinder(s) with a stainless steel liner - good forever. The majority of parts are made overseas but brand names are still available at your FLAPS or on-line at RockAuto. The parts are very inexpensive considering that your brakes are probably the most vital component on your vehicle save tires and steering. I would also pay close attention to your steel brake hard lines especially considering the amount of rust in your existing master cylinder - the rubber flex lines can also deteriorate over time and will look fine on the outside but will plug acting like a one way check valve internally and lock one or more wheels up in operation. If it were mine, I'd probably get 3 or 4 60" lengths of 3/16 brake line and replace everything else i.e. springs/hoses/lines/etc - there's never enough money or time to do the job right the 1st time but plenty to do & re-do the second/third/fourth. Double flaring the lines is not difficult to do - chamfering the ends prior to flaring is the key and using a little oil on the flaring cone will ease the process. You might also consider a front disc swap like the Suzuki and going to 10"/11" drums in the rear - the Suzuki is the best disc swap going right now for cost and availability - use the 1/2" mounting brackets for the calipers. Good Luck with your project!

 

I am replacing all of the lines and rubber hoses, and I was leaning toward replacing the wheel cylinders and master cylinder too. I just wanted to get some feedback first. It is a Renegade, so it has the larger drums on it already. A disc brake swap may be in the future, but I want to get it road worthy and drive it for a while to see how I like it.

Now I have to look up double flaring brake lines... lol.
Thanks for the input.

 

Back when I was a student living hand to mouth, I repaired brake cylinders. My success rate was better than 50%. Today I would only replace cylinders with new, if they are available.

Renegades got the same brakes as the base model. Not sure what you are referring to.

Year/model? Should be '72 or newer for this forum. Good to put that info in your signature file. Spring kits for the Bendix 11"x2" drum brakes (used on these Jeeps) are cheap. No need to reuse old parts.

 

I thought I read somewhere that the Renegade came with the 11" brake drums but the others did not.
I have a 72. I keep forgetting to do the signature thing.