Brake lines...

I'm ordering a new master cylinder for the Heep. I want to replace all of the brake lines as well. I'm thinking about buying a flaring tool and just getting straight sections of tubing and bending it all myself. I already have a tubing bender so I really only need the flaring tool, the tubing and the fittings and I'm ready to go. What size tubing should I run. I am of course talking about the hard lines. Once I get those run, I'll be adding some extended, braided stainless lines at each wheel.

Also, if I want to pick up a newer brake booster, what can I get that an OEM master cylinder will bolt up to?

 

Well I just replaced all of the hardlines on my 72 when I did the swap over to discs in the front. The original lines for the fronts are 3/16 and the line to the rear is 1/4. If you are going to get a flaring tool remember it needs to be one that does a double flare and the line is available @ NAPA in a coil 25'. I can't help you with the booster as I swapped in a complete MC/Booster/Prop valve from a newer wrangler when I switched to the front discs.

 

Well, I definitely will at least put on a new master cylinder. I'm pretty sure the one I have is shot. As for the link you posted Lynn, a big thanks (you are a wealth of information ). It looks like the same article posted over on JU. It is full of good info, however the parts they recommend are for Jeeps with DISC brakes. I've got a '75 CJ5 with 11" DRUMS at all four corners. I wonder if I could use a YJ booster with my CJ master cylinder!? Questions, questions! If anyone knows, please chime in. Also, could I use a YJ proportioning valve with my CJ set up? At a bare minimum, I will be replacing the MC and all of the hard lines. The tool I'm looking at getting for the flares makes a double 45 degree flare. Think it runs like $25.00 at good old JC Whitney . After that, I'll put some braided steel lines from the hard lines to the wheels. The power brakes would be nice, but are not absolutely necessary at this time. I will also be doing your drilled drum mod Lynn. Got to go search for the thread on that one. I remember reading it a while back, but need to locate the info again.

 

I just got my brake lines redone, I was going to replace everything but upon inspection, everything was tip top except the rear drivers side hardline. I got the 40" 3/16 line from the Advanced Auto and bent it myself. I found I needed a sharper bend than the bender I had provided so, (big tip) take 2 2" flat washers, 3 3/4" washers and bolts the entire thing together,pop it in the vise sideways and insert line and bend, making sure the tube just fits between the washers so you dont kink the line. I had to do this because of the close proximity of the rear hose bolted to the axles tube and diff.

The reason I didnt blow out and replace everything cold turkey was two fold, one I wanted SS and after an exhaustive search, I found way too expensive, and hard to get supply, and two, all my factory lines for the main line to the rear, plus most all front lines, have the spring around them, something the replacements didnt have(unless I bought a high dollar factory replacement set). I thought about the fact that the spring assists in keeping the lines from getting worn from rubbing the framework.

In the end I just;

(1)rebuilt all the wheel cylinders
(2)blew out all the lines, made sure they were rust free
(3)blew some fresh fluid through them to coat the insides
(4)Bought new hoses for both fronts and the rear
(5)tighted all the fittings, and for now sealed up the ends(dont have the tub back on atm)

I am buying a new MC but as I said b4, this will go on after I fully mount everything else.

 

I used a booster from an 80 cj on my 74 cj with drum brakes. It works fine. I am no auto eng., but here is my reasoning: you are only adding "extra" leg power to the system so there should be no ill effect to the system. That being said, if you go with a booster that supplies too much boost there is a chance that you could blow a seal. With that in mind I replaced all my wheel cylinders to be safe. My mc appeard fine on disassembly. Beyond that the only modification I had to make was to make a new actuator rod to tie the booster and mc together. I used 1/4 rod and rounded one end just like the stock one. If you have a tsm, look at the section on brakes and find the picture that shows a dissassembled mc. It highlights the pieces that should be removed for a booster. I had the same concerns as you, but it will all worked out. As for the yj booster. I think that it will work fine, but you must use the drum brake mc and prop valve. You can find sites that propose that there is no percievable difference between prop valves, but I did not trust those statements and opted to stick with the stock prop valve.

Karl