Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by browncoat, Apr 15, 2017.
And, got my rims painted and the new rubber on them.
Plus, sometimes I need a little motivation just to remind myself that it is actually a Jeep, and will be one again some day.
The body is hanging up in the roof space while I get the bones of the beastie sorted out so the grill is all I have available to sit in place and keep motivated.
It's a long process.
It is first day of summer here and it's going to be brutal hot this year I think.
Makes it hard to get anything done when you are sweating buckets and just want to stay inside in the air con.
Tomorrow I attack the brake lines while they are not as hard to get at before the body is in place.
Going to make some brackets for the flex ends to secure those to the chassis and then run the hard lines back to approximately where the master cylinder will be.
I have to stop delaying the handbrake system and drive shaft mods I need to do.
Obviously I have lost the drum brake system that the original T18 transfer case had, so I am thinking of making a disc brake setup that will double as an adaptor plate for the rear drive shaft.
I used NiCopp brake lines and they bend and flare easy, plus they don't rust. I seriously considered ditching the drum brake and bought the parts to fabricate a new one out of a snowmobile. You might have trouble sourcing those parts, but I believe UTV's run a similar parking brake.
I just realized, this Jeep is right hand drive. That's cool
Although it even says it in your title, I didn't realize it is a 3b until I saw the grill.
Got the bits I will need for the handbrake all ready to go 47v6.
Snowmobile parts are a bit hard to come by down here, and not many UTV parts at reasonable prices either.
So I have a wilwood manual brake caliper and a piece of steel to cut a disc and machine down to size for the adaptor plate/ brake disc to attach to the rear output on the transfer case.
Then figure out a mounting system and a handbrake lever.
I did look at using a quad bike brake disc I had laying around but the wilwood caliper only works with a 3/4 inch thick disc so I will have to machine one from scratch.
OMG a RHD 3B?
Geez, are you pair even paying attention or what?
I'm high an aluminum cleaner acid, no idea what I'm observing!!!
So I got the brake lines run and brackets made.
Need an adaptor for the rear brake line out of the GM booster. It is a 1/4 line and everything on the jeep is 3/16 line.
So not having any excuse I got started on the drive shaft situation.
I am utilising a pair of front drive shafts out of a Ford Ranger / Mazda BT50 4wd UTE as they are called here.
The decision to pick those was because they use the 1310 series uni joints like original so the diff clevis's won't need to change, and the other end can be adapted to suit the Daihatsu transfer case outputs.
First step was to modify the transfer case ends of the drive shaft clevis so it bolts on to the smaller Daihatsu output.
I need around half a hole smaller diameter (PCD) so welded up the existing holes and drilled new holes to match the Daihatsu clevis.
Mig weld went hard so needed to push a carbide end mill into service to get the holes done.
So that means the holes are now off centre of the rebate for the bolt head.
So, flipped it over to machine the bolt head rebate closer to the lugs.
I may need to use socket head cap screws in these instead of hex head bolts cause there is not a lot of room to fit a ring spanner or socket on here now.
Removed the excess material at each corner to make it look neater.
The lip that fits in to the transfer clevis face also needed a spacer to make it the correct diameter as the drive shaft one is smaller (45mm) than the Daihatsu one (50mm).
Just turned those out of some pipe on the lathe.
The drive shaft was cut to length and rewelded so it fits the distance from the diff to the transfer case.
Taking into account the lengthening and shortening as the diff moves up and down the centre to centre distance ended up being around 16 inches, so chopped around 8 inches off the shaft.
Assembled it all with new uni's and it seems to fit OK.
Have not put in the handbrake disc yet.
I was concerned early on that the shaft angle may be really steep because the new transfer case is a little further to the rear than the originals would have been.
But the Daihatsu transfer outputs are also lower than the original dana 18 so it looks as good as the jeep drive line ever looks.
Started to do the front one but my pathetic little lathe decided to break while I was machining the spline down to the size I want for the front shaft.
So tomorrow I go searching for a left hand 8mm nut or tap to make a new block for the cross travel.
That will be a challenge.
Started to look at the disc and brake caliper for the hand brake setup and realised I will not be stuck with a 3/4" thick disc like I thought I would.
Just removed the spacers in the caliper and then I can use a thin and light disc.
Sadly the quad bike disc I have is to difficult to modify for the hole centres I need, so I will cut a 1/8" thick disc and mount that.
After repairing the little lathe I got the front shaft sorted.
Here it is in the lathe being checked for straight.
Tacked together then turned to check everything is parallel etc.
Weld it and hope it doesn't move too much.
So then it got painted and installed and the concern I had about the front drive shaft possibly hitting the sump when the suspension bottoms out started to look like it could be very real.
It would be a close thing, so I got a chain puller and compressed the front suspension fully and it just misses by a mickey hair.
So I won't have to worry about modifying that added on sump section unless it becomes a drama later.
Back to the handbrake situation.
Cut the 1/8 steel disc and drilled it to suit the bolt pattern.
Then had to figure out the best way to mount the caliper.
After looking at various ways that would have been awkward to fabricate I decided keep it simple to begin with and mount it to the selector cover of the transfer case.
It provides the shortest distance between caliper and mounting bolts, and is well protected from damage being up high.
The only concern I have is the torque effect of the disc may put a lot of stress on the short distance between the mounting holes if it gets used while the vehicle is in (fast) motion, but a low speed rolling stop and jamming on the brake showed no movement or twisting that I could see.
I will have a look and see if there is a possibility of getting a spacer behind it, and a longer bolt through the vertical plate and pick up one of the holes that the aluminium cover plate uses.
That would make it a solid mounting system then.
As a parking brake it will be fine, as an emergency stopping brake it will need some more testing.
Here you can see the actuating lever for the brake and the thread rod that will become the pivot point for the brake lever.
I intend to run a handbrake lever between the gear sticks.
Painted with the spacer pipe in place.
Next step it to make the handbrake lever assembly.
Super cool!!! Seems like it would be easy to add an e-brake connection point to the T-case bolt just to the right of the shifter mount in that last picture. Might need a longer bolt but seems easily done
Actually managed to get an extra bracket welded on today and it goes to the just visible bolt on the left in he last pic.
There was no bolt behind the vertical plate at all so that didn't pan out.
It is lower than the right hand bolt and not as far away from the caliper as the right bolt would be.
I am now more than happy that it is a solid mounting system and not likely to twist under torque pressure from the disc.
Mad skills. Way cool
But the skills do let me down sometimes.
Got the turbo bolted on but I have an oil leak out of the exhaust side of the unit.
I think it is from too much oil pressure.
I had tried to be neat and run the oil outlet through the same sump drain tube as the vacuum pump oil goes to by installing a T piece in the line.
But I got oil seeping out of the shaft in the exhaust as soon as the engine started up.
I thought, maybe it had too much oil trying to go through too small of a drain pipe.
So I put the bigger outlet back together on the turbo and made a new drain into the sump.
Tried restricting the oil volume out of the oil gallery with a plug in the fitting that goes into the engine block.
Size reduced from 4mm diameter to 1.2mm diameter.
That reduced the volume a little but I think the pressure is still here.
Cause, it still leaks.
Also tried rotating the turbo body so the oil chamber drains easier but no dice with that either.
Time to do a bit more research and figure out what I can do.
Maybe the turbo needs rebuilt? Bad seal?
It's a brand new unit.
So I am thinking that the turbo has not got a problem, rather it is a problem with how I have set it up.
I read up a little on turbo set ups and may have made a newbie error and run the turbo without the air filter on.
Apparently the air filter helps create some back pressure and that helps the sealing of the shaft in the journal.
Same theory with having the air pipe to the inlet set up and working.
I am also going to pick up a double banjo bolt assembly this morning so I can tap into an oil supply higher on the engine to see if that gives a lower oil pressure.
Last option is to rotate the intake body more than I tried yesterday and go the full 90 degrees so the drain is directly below the shaft.
That would mean a 180 degree bend needed to get the air intake pipe in the correct direction to the intake manifold which would not be as neat, but if it helps the oil situation then that is more important than style points.
I will update once I have some progress.
Don’t fret, with no exhaust system there is no back pressure. The seal ring on the turbine wheel needs back pressure to make it expand and seal. It’s not a lip seal. It’s a seal ring much like a seal ring in an automatic transmission. Once you have the jeep back together and run it under a load all that oil will go away. Just read the remainder of your post, don’t lower the oil pressure to the turbo. Most turbo engines use unregulated oil pressure to the turbo. You want all the oil that can be supplied. The oil lubricates but also cools the bearings. Less oil, less life for the turbo. That drain needs to be turned so it’s heading down. Could be the oil is pooling in the center section.
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