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DJCJ3A Trail Rig

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by djcj3a, Jun 12, 2013.

  1. Jun 12, 2013
    djcj3a

    djcj3a Member

    Ukiah, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
    Messages:
    206
    Getting ready to start a new rendition of my old flat fender again:

    [​IMG]

    Picked up a donor ECJ5 last night, and plan on using the frame and running gear under it, and topping it off with my tub.
    [​IMG]

    The Donor Came with a GM 90deg V6 with an SM420 already adapted to the D20 Transfer-case:

    The PO couldn't remember which V6 this was, 200 or 229. Does anyone know an easy way to identify, or where I might find the casting numbers?
    It has what appears to be a factory aluminum 2bbl intake and HEI distributor. I do know it's not a 4.3 by the uneven spacing on the distributor cap.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    SM420:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The Donor also Came with an open knuckle D30 front and flanged D44 factory posi rear:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The plan for this build is to strip the donor jeep down to the bare frame, and start from scratch building it back up using most of the existing parts. The donor currently has manual saginaw, which will be switched out with power. I also plan to convert to 4" YJ leafs sprung under.

    For what I plan on doing with this jeep, I feel most of the parts are more than adequate.

    This build will more than likely take a couple of years to complete, but I will update as much as possible.

    Any advice that can be offered by those who have been through something similar would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for looking!
     
  2. Jun 12, 2013
    Jw60

    Jw60 Sitting up n buckled down. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
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    displacement is cast on the rear of the engine, or you can find the year as the 3.3 and 3.8 did not overlap 78 and 79 are 3.3, 80 to 84 are 3.8, 85+ is 4.3 or you can also tell by the front accessory bolt holes. there are three or four holes close to the timing cover below the water pump. on the fuel pump side there will be 2 threaded bosses, on the driver side there will be the mirrored upper threaded boss and the lower will be a stud, a threaded boss or... nothing. a stud indicates it is a 3.8 the 3.3 did not feature a lower boss,
    [​IMG] 4.3
    [​IMG]3.3
    note the very bottom of the block on the driverside of the harmonic balancer
     
  3. Jun 12, 2013
    djcj3a

    djcj3a Member

    Ukiah, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
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    206
    No lower boss, looks like I've got a 3.3. Thanks for your help
     
  4. Jun 12, 2013
    Jw60

    Jw60 Sitting up n buckled down. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
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    no problem been there done that,
    a 55-57 327v8 vac/fuel pump for a chevy truck is what i used for the wipers and fuel,
    the early water pump will save 2in and a mustang radiator is perfect.
     
  5. Jun 12, 2013
    djcj3a

    djcj3a Member

    Ukiah, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
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    206
    Will the 3.3 still be a noticeable improvement compared to the l-head? At some point I will more than likely swap in a 4.3, just hoping this will get me by for a while.

    My jeep has never had wipers, so I will more than likely go with electrics when I get to that point. Great to know about the water pump though, thanks again!
     
  6. Jun 13, 2013
    Jw60

    Jw60 Sitting up n buckled down. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
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    the 3.3 has a lot of torque for it's 98 horses, the exterior parts are cheap but it's guts are uncommon, it has a very reliable carburetor and ignition. better on road but does not lug and tug so well on a trail like the 134. axle ratio is going to really affect how it performs.
    fyi the 4.3 quadrajet intake is much taller than the dual jet intake. here is the link to my build, I think it might be a good resource http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?70907-Rebuild-for-quot-miles-quot/page5 read both the 3.3 install and 4.3 retrofit as there are several things i had to change on the 4.3 install like using a Chevy van gas pedal
    now is the time for the Saginaw swap, and hanging pedals
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 13, 2013
  7. Jun 13, 2013
    djcj3a

    djcj3a Member

    Ukiah, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
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    206
    Joe,
    Thanks again, your thread is a huge help. The PO included a set of wilwood swinging pedals and master cylinders, as well as the slave cylinder. The axles have 3.73's in them now, and that's what I'm sticking with until I get to drive it a bit. Hopefully the SM420 will help with the torque issue. Do you know if the aluminum intake is a factory piece? It is numbered with the firing order on top.
     
  8. Jun 13, 2013
    Jw60

    Jw60 Sitting up n buckled down. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
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    yes the aluminum intake is factory, the 85/86 4.3 has quadrajet intake that is cast iron.
     
  9. Jul 6, 2013
    djcj3a

    djcj3a Member

    Ukiah, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
    Messages:
    206
    Ok,
    So I'm going to attempt to start on this build, and at the same time, keep my Flatfender operational through Deer Season. I've read on a few threads that the flatty body will bolt up to most of the '5 mounts. Will the firewall and axles line up in the same place as well? If engine placement is the same, it will save me a ton of time, and give me a much quicker start.

    Also, as I'm going with YJ leafs, does anyone see a problem with building conversion shackles (1 3/4" top x 2 1/2" bottom), versus building new hangers to match the width of the springs? I am building new hangers for the non-shackle end.

    Thanks
     
  10. May 27, 2014
    djcj3a

    djcj3a Member

    Ukiah, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
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    206
    Well, I guess I'm not great at keeping this up to date. Plans have changed a lot since I started this thread. I ditched the V6 and built a 302 Ford, which I then adapted to the SM420 Dana 20 Combo:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This required a special pilot bushing and sizing ring. Novak was able to provide the bushing, and a sizing ring for an SM420 to SM465 bell, which I had machined locally to match the Ford Bellhousing.

    I also ended up going with a hydraulic throwout from Speedway, as it seemed like the simplest option to make everything work together:
    [​IMG]

    I also ditched the YJ spring idea. I am keeping the front shackle reversal, and have 2.5" pro comp springs I will be using in conjunction.

    I've also gotten my saginaw swap plate in place, steering rod clears the headers nicely:
    [​IMG]

    Ordered R&P's new 1/4 ton disc brake kit this afternoon, which will be going on the Dana 30. I will be keeping the rear 11" drums. Also spoke with my local tire guy, and got 4 33x10.50R15 BFG M/T's on the way. He will be mounting them up for me this weekend.

    Any questions or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance
     
  11. May 28, 2014
    piffey263

    piffey263 Active Member

    Medford, OR
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2008
    Messages:
    1,214
    Looks great,

    I didn't know you had a build thread, I will be up in Lake and Mendocino county for the month of June if you need a hand let me know.
     
  12. May 28, 2014
    djcj3a

    djcj3a Member

    Ukiah, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
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    206
    Piff,
    Thanks, I'll definitely let you know. I've got cold :stout: in the shop fridge, sure I can find something to keep ya busy!
     
  13. May 28, 2014
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2002
    Messages:
    2,361
    Your going to want to put some sort of front crossmemeber in there. That motor is really going to tear up the frame rails. I had it happen on my Jeep.
     
  14. May 28, 2014
    djcj3a

    djcj3a Member

    Ukiah, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
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    206
    Once I get my radiator mounted to the grill, I am planning on adding one behind the box, just need to check for clearance between the crank pulley and radiator first. Looking like the best I will be able to do is 1x3 .120 wall with a notch for the steering shaft. Do you think that will be sufficient?

    Thanks for the advice, I can use as much as I can get
     
  15. May 28, 2014
    djcj3a

    djcj3a Member

    Ukiah, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
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    206
    Also, my front bumper is welded in solid, I was hoping that would help too.
     
  16. May 30, 2014
    djcj3a

    djcj3a Member

    Ukiah, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
    Messages:
    206
    Got one fender notched tonight:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    My goal with this project is to finish one task a night, no matter how tired I am after work. Even small things give me a feeling of accomplishment that keep me coming back day after day. It's a good way for me to keep excited about the project, and to keep the build moving forward.

    P.S. - Switching from .035 wire to .030 made a huge difference welding sheet-metal!
     
  17. May 30, 2014
    uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    Greeley CO
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2009
    Messages:
    2,104
    Try going to .024 wire if your machine will run it. It makes welding sheet metal a lot easier.
     
  18. Jun 2, 2014
    djcj3a

    djcj3a Member

    Ukiah, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
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    206
    Next time I'm at the welders supply, I'll pick up a little roll and give it a shot, thanks!
     
  19. Jun 2, 2014
    djcj3a

    djcj3a Member

    Ukiah, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
    Messages:
    206
    Got a few things done over the last couple of days:

    Got the other fender notch completed:
    [​IMG]

    Got new 33x10.50 BFG KM2's mounted up on an old set of aluminum 15x7's I painted up:

    [​IMG]

    And lastly, I got my twin stick setup installed on the transfercase:

    [​IMG]

    Now that the twin sticks are installed, I can set the body back on the frame, and start on building a new tunnel cover.I had to cut fairly high up in the tub to get the engine as far back as I wanted, so I see a lot of fabrication in my future. Once the cover's done, I can finally start disassembling and finish welding the frame, paint, and reassemble the chassis. I also plan on sanding and repainting the body a different color (sick of the orange). Thinking about a flat desert tan, black grill and windshield. Received my disc brake kit in the mail Saturday, looks like great quality. Looking forward to getting it installed.
     
  20. Jun 4, 2014
    djcj3a

    djcj3a Member

    Ukiah, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
    Messages:
    206
    Got a little more done tonight. One thing a night will hopefully add up in the long run.

    I picked up a YJ rear bumper off of craigslist for $40, with plans to modify it to fit my flatty.

    I purchased a pair of shackle (aka d-ring) mounts off of ebay, and and used them for a secure tie to the frame

    I will also be building a spare mount off the top of the bumper, as well as some sort of cooler carrier. The fact that my DJ has no tailgate makes this an easy task:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now that this is done, I hope to set the tub on the frame tomorrow, and start on the tranny tunnel cover. I found a nice broiler pan in the scrap bin at work that I think will be a good start.
     
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