Discussion in 'The Tool Shed' started by John A. Shows, Jan 10, 2008.
Duct tape and tie wire lol
$12 Jerry Can mounts. Have seen the same product as much as $130 on "4 wheel drive" sites...
Go to Radio shack and pick up one of thier butane soldering irons. They run around $20 and really come in handy. I carry one with me all the time.
Don't forget the solder.
Aspirin and Band-aids!
Ok that Jerry can mount is great!!! I have got to buy that! Is that a good web site, has anyone bought from there before?
If your running an HEI carry an extra coil and module, and always turn your key off or disconnect the battery when working on electical issues!
Never forget Duct-Tape!
I have to add my two cents to this one. Since it is generally electrical related, a chunk of wire long enough to go from your battery to any where else with an alligator clip on each end.
I love my electrical tackle box, sometimes during the commercials on the speed channel I go in the garage to just look at it... I would add a can of paint on electrical tape. After soldering a butt connection and shrinking the tubing down on it, I like to give it one clean swipe with the liquid tape to waterproof the connection...
Never forget Duct-Tape!
Personally I would have gorilla tape it holds better and last longer.
I once had to rob some vacuum hose off the windshield wipers in an old car I had, to repair a fuel hose that had rotted. Does this qualify?
Perhaps a little airline size bottle of Black Jack
CABLE TIES , HEAT SRINK,
Not just ANY heat shrink, use 3M Adhesive Lined (Dual Wall) Heat Shrink Tubing! This stuff will absolutely seal joints and connectors!
Some people go through life wondering if they made a differece.....
I'll just add my recommendation to the person who said nice things about marine-grade crimp connectors with heat-seal insulators, they are well worth the money and trouble to get. A lot of people use very poor crimping tools and then wonder why things fall apart or have loose/intermittent connections, a good quality double-reduction crimp tool will crush your terminal on well enough that the wire will fail first.
I see a lot of mention of soldering irons, just be sure to use soft lead solder. I did have a chat with a mechanical engineer from an aerospace background who explained that unless you have exquisite strain relief that soldered joints tended to fail from vibration and strain between where the solder ends and insulation begins and indeed, I have seen this failure mode often enough that I no longer willingly use solder but crimps (see above).
Moved to The Tool Shed
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