Ignition Points

I bought my '65 CJ5 Tux in late July. I've put approximately 22 miles on it during this time and burned two sets of points. Is there supposed to be a ballast resistor in the primary circuit? I didn't see one in the wiring diagram I have. This has me puzzled.

 

Far as I know, yeah, there should be. I know there's one still hanging on the firewall of my '70, even though it's not connected to anything.

 

depends on the coil. Some coils say internal resistor on them and the ones that don't will require external ballast.

 

Put a ballast resistor on. For one it can't hurt, and for two you'll know if it worked.

 

Not leaving the ignition switch on without it running are you? That will burn points in pretty short order.

 

The first time I'm not sure but today I'm certain the key has been off.

 

My 64 didn't have a ballast resistor, I put a 66 wiring harness, from a V6, it had a resistor, I left it out. I had an internal resistor coil for the F134 have had no problems at all, same points since 07, 10k miles on it. Good Luck

 

It sounds like to me the most likely cause is a bad or miswired condenser. On some vehicles it's possible to connect the condenser lead wire to the ground side of the points where it'll do no good. The condenser needs to be connected to the coil side of the points.

Also, check your gap and make sure it's not too small. Don't use a feeler gauge and set them until you feel noticeable drag like you would for say valve lash. To get any noticeable drag, the spring arm will be compressed and you'll end up with too small of a gap. I generally use the feeler gauge and check for wiggle space. If you put in the feeler gauge and you can see the contacts spread apart, even a tiny bit, then they're set too tight. My gapping technique always seems to get me a dwell angle between a couple degrees of the target number.

Also, could be poor quality points. Buy Standard Ignition points. They're the best. Stay away from NAPA brand - that's been my experience. My Dauntless hates NAPA points. I only get a few months out of those.

If your ignition coil needs a ballast it'll generally say so on the case. A ballast could help but check condenser and gap first.

John

 

Modern condensers are crap these days. If you want a quality one, find one thats old stock.
-Donny

 

I have a ballast resistor in mine. If you add one you may want to consider adding a bypass for starting. I got a starter solenoid with a terminal for that. Gives full voltage to the coil while you have the key in "start".

 

Ballast resistors in a 12V points system are designed to drop the voltage to the points to 9 volts. The sole reason for this is to extend the life of the points. It is best to have a 12 volt bypass when running a ballast resistor so the ignition system gets 12 volts when cranking/starting. Bypasses are usually accomplished at the solenoid.

Always insure the contacts on the points are adjusted. They should contact flat across the face. Many times the arms are bent or twisted, which can cause a breakdown/buildup on a specific area of the points, accelerating the wear.

Insure the contacts are clean. Many times they are packed with a corrosion resistor that can cause issues.

As stated above, leaving the key in the "on" position (instead of acc) with the engine off will cause voltage to run through the points if they are closed, causing premature failure.

 

BTDT. Now I always finish adjustment/cleaning with a wipe-through of clean paper, such as a business card. Even a speck of the cleaning abrasive can cause trouble.

 

Someone told me to use a dollar bill, it will pull out any grit or oil, I have been doing that since I was a kid, sometimes had to borrow a dollar. We would use cigarette cyclophane wrapper to set the timing.

 

I'm about to order a small collection of distributor parts, spark plug wires, and a coil to eliminate as many issues as I can. I have a 1962 with the F134. There was no ballast resistor in place when I bought it and I have managed to get it to run, but now I think the coil is gone. I am getting 12 volts at positive wire to coil. My understanding is it should be closer to 9, so I will need to get a resistor. I know the subject of this thread is "ignition points" so my question is twofold: First, is the WVE brand of points offered through Rock Auto reliable, and second, does anyone have any recommendations for the ballast resistor? (My plan is to buy the UC12 from SMP based on a recommendation found in a different thread.) Thanks.

 

If the points are open during this test then you will read 12v at the coil due no load. If the points are closed then yes you will read +/- 9v.

 

Thanks for the input. To answer your question: I got the engine started after it sitting for many years. I bought it in unknown condition. It has a newer wiring system as the PO put an alternator in it. In the last six months I began tearing into it. Changed fuel lines, added a filter, put a clean tank on it, looked over the wiring (it seemed sound) and after a little coaxing it started and even ran for 15-20 minutes. Ran it several times. Have not driven it yet. Anyway, a few days ago I went to start and it only sputtered once each time I turned it over. (As in it would kick once then nothing.) Chasing down things I noted the resistance on the primary coil circuit was way off (and there was a pinhole leak in the coil), an induction timing light would flash in 2, 3, and 4, but not 1, a spark tested did not show spark on any spark plug wire, the induction light flashed regularly when attached to the coil wire, gap is proper, condenser is untested. Long story short, thought I would start with some fresh pieces.

Your information regarding what was factory helps. Sounds like I should be looking at an internally resisted coil rather than an external one. Is that your recommendation? If so, any reasonably priced ones come to mind?

Again, thanks for your help!

 

Thanks... I am pretty sure I checked that but I will double/triple check.