Megasquirt Build

You could probably do it with MS3, using the individual trim for each plug and a coil-on-plug configuration. Go +30 trim on three cylinders, and -30 on the others. You'd need a crank sensor and a cam sensor, so that you stayed in-phase with the firing order. Turn the distributor into a cam sensor and add a tooth wheel on the crank ... piece of cake!

 

Looks like these will work fine. One thing about the factory parts - they are certain to be sufficiently water resistant for under-hood mounting if you use the original plastic covers, and mount then in a similar location as the donor vehicle. I'm sure you can come up with a clever way to mount them under your hood so they look like they should be there.

I used an eight-location fuse holder from an eBay seller that I later found cheaper at Del City. You may find that you need a few more locations than the six in the holder pictured above - my 8-position holder is filled. http://www.delcity.net/store/Fuse-Blocks/p_176

 

I'd call them.

I Googled "Megasquirt PCB" and found the "partial kit" http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/....html?osCsid=a375cb7be3446e1910ef9e0d4b4d1f72 - you'll need to get the rest of the parts through Digikey or Mouser or such. I'd still call them and ask why they won't sell a full kit.

<seconds later> I followed the link on that page and it took me to the full kit listing :? ... http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/...cb22-kit-black-case-p-128.html?products_id=28

 

I know it seems expensive for a budget project ... but ...

Buy a good station. I have a Weller similar to the one below that I have owned since 1998 or thereabouts. The Hakkos get good reviews too.

You don't need to add the cost of your tools into the cost of the project - they are an investment that is amortized over many uses.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-...0436&sr=8-2&keywords=weller+soldering+station

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=zg_bs_13837391_5

Tenma is also well known - http://www.mcmelectronics.com/browse/Soldering-Stations/0000001216

You can buy an inexpensive station that will get you through the project - like this - http://www.circuitspecialists.com/station-60.html - be sure you get something that is temperature controlled, and that has a grounded tip (ESD safe). Wattage isn't much of a concern, since you'll be using 60/40 tin/lead solder. Get small diameter solder, like 0.031" diam. I have that size at my bench and larger (60 thou?) in the garage.

 

Actually I have this one - http://www.amazon.com/WTCPT-Tempera...979&sr=8-13&keywords=weller+soldering+station - it's great, but I didn't pay nearly that much for it ... 20 years ago. IIRC I've replaced the tip once, and I have some spare tips that I have not used.

I'd also suggest you get one where the holder sits on the bench; this one can be used on either side of the power supply, or separated.

 

Yeah, I'm not much of an expert at electronics, but I enjoy such projects. Today's effort -



It's a signal conditioner for the pulseox monitor to the left - turns a sloppy analog signal into a digital (TTL) pulse. This is for work - sometimes I get to do this kind of stuff and actually get paid.

 

IIRC R9 gets hot, so you might want to upgrade the wattage and/or leave it standing proud of the circuit board.

Very tidy! How's the board stuffing going?

 

One big advantage the v3.0 board has is the fly back circuitry is built into the board instead of being an add on. This is necessary when you use low resistance injectors. My first board (V1) Ran for about a year and a half before it fried the injector drivers because I did not builtd the fly back circuitry. I bought and built the 3.0 board and it never had any problems.