Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Muzikp, Aug 11, 2017.
Great deal, can't get one made for near that price around here
Dang you have hot water pressure wash, that rules!!!
I have no idea where this axle came from. It’s some custom job. The only thing I know is the brake backing plates are Ford. I thought for a bit it was a front D44 from a 77-78 Ford F-150 but none of those parts are right. Also the Bronco parts don’t fit either. I’m assuming this is a front axle flipped over with reverse cut gears but I just have no idea.
Anybody have any idea what vehicles had high pinion D44’s with 3” tubes?
NO I don't own a hot water pressure washer, I'm renting one for 4 hrs and going to give the 2A parts a good cleaning and then evaluate the next move. You have a true mystery, Wonder if WFO built the diff?
I give myself a solid B on gunk removal and paint prep. I ended up using the shaft from the blue driveshaft and the tube from my original or vice-versa can't remember. No idea if it's balanced or not or if it vibrates yet.
I'm pretty happy with the angle, in fact I lowered my pinion a bit after this pic and it's spinning nicely.
Some of my pre-rubicon list... some of it
Looking good James! My hot water pressure washer cleaning project is in limbo due to washer mechanical failure! maybe this coming week. What front diff are you going with? D-80
Ha! I have a D30 in it but it has 3:73 gears. Need to change em to my new 4:10's
That will work well. What brand are you using for the R&P? Yukon, G2, Spicer....... I still have to buy my R&P's for the D-30 & 44. Installing 5:38's due to the F134/L134.
My Rubicon list is about that long, course I still need to get started.
If I can get through mine soon I'll come by and help you with yours. Sometimes having an extra hand is a big motivator.
Question for those following along.
I have the option to move my bump stops down an inch or raise the body an inch.
I say raise the body. But I'll ask this, are the bump stops in the correct location? If so, I don't see any reason to lower them. If not them you should find the correct location to prevent spring damage.
Bump stops are there to not only protect the axle from hitting anything it’s not supposed to, but they’re also there to keep the springs from over-travel. Bend a spring too far and it won’t return. This doesn’t just apply to hitting a bump, it’s hitting a bump while braking or accelerating when they are often pushed beyond their limits because they are under compression and wrap, and it’ll over-travel one side of the spring.
I guess it depends how much up-travel your springs were designed for.
I currently have a wide stance and low center of gravity that I kinda like which is why I was thinking bring bumps down but not sure if I have much downward travel.
I definitely need a 1/4" lower on the front bumps because the tie rod just barely touches the PS gear on full stuff. No idea how much up travel they were designed for. I have 2.5" Rancho lift springs and the bumps look like they have never been touched. I have a lot of tire rubbing at full stuff. In that picture you can kinda tell where my front tire pushed the lip of the fender out. That's what I'm trying to mitigate.
Are those 33's or 35's?
Looks perfect. I had 31's on my jeep up until recently, but swapped them for 33's. In the process of stretching to cj6 length so not sure if I want to stay 33, or go 35. I have a set of brand new bds 2.5 springs.
Got my shock mounts welded into my u-bolt plates, a before paint pic
At full droop the shocks barely clear the axle tube. Thinking about changing these to mount on the axle tube instead . Might keep them from getting banged up a bit better.
non-shock side of the u-bolt plate.
I like the look of the rear hubs, kinda cool.
could you move the shock mount forward a little on the U-bolt plate?
I decided to take a break from the Rubicon prep list and work on something that wasn't on the list but should be
Ever since I've owned this Jeep it has a lean bog somewhere between 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. I only know it's a lean bog because I've been watching ThunderHead289 on youtube and learning all kinds of interesting carb stuff. Check him out if the carburetor is a mystery like it was to me.
You can tell it's lean from looking at the plugs.
I decided to start by setting the timing just to make sure it wasn't timing related.
I wanted to be sure I had good fuel pressure so I installed a fuel pressure gauge.
I consistently run between 7 and 8 pounds of pressure which seems good.
So I moved on to carb. I thought it might be the accelerator pump but when you pull the throttle I get two nice solid streams of fuel from the nozzle so that seems to be working good.
I pulled it off and look
It's got some really sticky old fuel on the bottom of it.
Upon further dissassembly I noticed it looks like the secondary fuel bowl has never had gas in it. The secondary bowl on the left is dry and dirty and the primary bowl on the right is clean and had fuel in it.
Also you can see here the secondary side is perfectly clean in the little recess
Whereas the primary side has some of that sticky fuel in it.
And if you look down the body you can see the venturi's on the secondary side look like they have never been used.
And the blades on the secondary side look similar.
So I got a rebuild kit and dove in.
All done... except
I noticed I don't have the idle mixture screws on the secondary side
Which explains many things. Hopefully I can find some locally and get this installed tomorrow.
Hoping it runs like a scalded dog when it goes back on.
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