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No spark, no matter what I do...ideas?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Kiowa Flier, Feb 2, 2012.

  1. Feb 2, 2012
    Kiowa Flier

    Kiowa Flier New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2012
    Messages:
    8
    After several hours of troubleshooting today, I'm really stumped about why my jeep isn't producing sparks, and I would be ever so grateful if someone has any ideas for me. 1959 CJ5, 12 volt system, f-4-134 engine. Drove it a few weeks ago for about an hour, pulled in the driveway and it died. Restarted, gave it some gas, died again...and again. I replaced the fuel filter and confirmed that gas was getting to the carburetor, and also decided to replace the rotor, distributor cap, points and condensor, as they were all getting very worn. Replaced the spark plugs and plug wires. I'm learning about this stuff as I go, so I carefully noted how everything was when I took it out and tried to put it all back the exact same way. Now, no matter what I try, I'm not getting a spark, from the plug wires or between the points. My neighbor who knows far more about this stuff than I do helped me check electrical continuity all around the distributor, and it all checked out okay...even he's stumped now too. Checked the ignition coil with an ohmeter and it was fine, although I did notice that after a period of cranking the engine, the coil was warm...I don't know if that's normal or not. My points are set to .02 inches, and seem to be opening and closing just fine when I tried cranking the engine with the cap off. Checked all my wires, and they seem to be okay. Anybody got any suggestions? I've attached links to photos of my old distributor parts, and of the new parts.

    Old distributor parts
    http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc185/Puppydog68/1959 CJ-5 - old distributor parts/

    New distributor parts and wires:
    http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc185/Puppydog68/CJ-5 jeep new distributor parts/
     
  2. Feb 2, 2012
    jackfunkhouser

    jackfunkhouser New Member

    Mico, Texas
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2008
    Messages:
    43
    Did you check to see if there is 12 volts at the coil. If there is 12 volts there, try a jumper right from the battery to the coil. A bad connection anywhere from the ignition switch to the coil will prevent the system from handling the load.
     
  3. Feb 3, 2012
    ArnoldV

    ArnoldV New Member

    La Verne CA
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2011
    Messages:
    27
    1) Key on /Use a simple 12V test light make sure you have 12V at the pos + side of the coil. If yes then use the same test light to spread the points open and closed you should see a spark jumping around as you do this. Check the wire between the points and Neg side of the coil. Double check the wire (easy to overlook) I have seen them look good and not make a good connection at the coil or at the points side. A wire with Alligator clips works well to test quickly. Check the Bolt that goes through the distributor with a test the light. Does it light up there? If not disconnect the condenser check again. Make sure the condenser wire is not touching any metal surface. Make sure the connection at the points and the bolt are fine.

    2) I use a dwell meter on mine and have a V6. Never worked on 4cly Jeep but Dwell for most 4cyl is about 39 to 41. Will it show a Dwell as you crank it?

    3) Not common but I have seen engine not run do to lack of proper grounding. No Ground to dist no spark! I check this two ways A) connect test light ground cable to the + pos of the battery then touch the tip with light to the distributor breaker plate it should light up. B) I always try it first jumper cable from battery ground to the engine block near the distributor.

    Feel free to PM me.
     
  4. Feb 3, 2012
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    Aug 3, 2003
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    9,805
    Make sure the points are clean - maybe sand them very lightly, then polish with clean paper to clear any grit. Check with meter or light that they are conducting when closed.

    I once had new points that seemed to be coated with something and would not make electrical contact.
     
  5. Feb 3, 2012
    ArnoldV

    ArnoldV New Member

    La Verne CA
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2011
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    27
    Any Luck??
     
  6. Feb 3, 2012
    Kiowa Flier

    Kiowa Flier New Member

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    Jan 22, 2012
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    Arnold, your statement "Make sure the connection at the points and the bolt are fine" is what did it. I only got a few minutes to work on it today, but I noticed that when I installed the points, I had put the plastic insulating washer between the bolt head that connects to the coil wire and the points bracket, and thus the points weren't making good contact with the bolt. Switched that around, fired it up, and that was it! It's running pretty rough because the timing is off and the points aren't fine-tuned, but at least it started up. I'll work on timing and dwell tomorrow. Thanks for all the advice everybody.
     
  7. Feb 10, 2012
    ArnoldV

    ArnoldV New Member

    La Verne CA
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2011
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    27
    Great! Glad to hear you up and running.
     
  8. Apr 1, 2012
    IA2003

    IA2003 Member

    Ewa Beach, HI
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2011
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    84
    I am having the same issue. I have the same setup on my F-134 as above but my Distributor is the new non points type. I am not getting a spark from the ignition coil to the distributor. I have power at the coil when I test it and on the distributor. The starter turns over but nothing from the coil. My coil has an internal resistor and I am not running a condenser because the wiring diagram for the new distributor and coil do not call for it. I have no idea why it wont spark. I have tried everything and i am getting very frustrated. Any ideas?
     
  9. Apr 1, 2012
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2003
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    9,805
    "....decided to replace the rotor, distributor cap, points and condensor, as they were all getting very worn. Replaced the spark plugs and plug wires. "
    "After several hours of troubleshooting today, I'm really stumped about why my jeep isn't producing sparks..."

    A great lesson in why it's good to do one item at a time.
     
  10. Apr 1, 2012
    IA2003

    IA2003 Member

    Ewa Beach, HI
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2011
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    84
    My distributor is basically two pieces. The cap and everything else. There are no points.
     
  11. Apr 1, 2012
    vsixbill

    vsixbill New Member

    Usa
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    Feb 26, 2006
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    9
  12. Apr 1, 2012
    ArnoldV

    ArnoldV New Member

    La Verne CA
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2011
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    not sure if my first reply went through as I saw upgrade when I was done.
    Most older vehicles require the removal of the (Pink wire pink on older GM) from the ignition Switch. The wire is there to reduce the voltage as to not burn out the ignition points. Could be different color on a Jeep. All electronic ignitions I have worked on require the full 12V. You can place a Jumper wire from the battery+ side to the coil + side/ removing the wire from the + side of the coil first from the Switch. 2) check the air gap on the pick-up (something like setting points) some are not adjustable but could have been damaged form the factory. A non magnetic feeler gauge is needed for this. 3) I would use a test light to the negative side of the coil and ground. The switch on engine off the light should light up now spin the engine by hand slowly you should see the light blink/flash. If not the #4 is most likely 4) defective electronic ignition you bought.

    Let me know. Arnold V.
     
  13. Apr 2, 2012
    IA2003

    IA2003 Member

    Ewa Beach, HI
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2011
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    Thanks Arnold. I got your message. I will do some more trouble shooting tomorrow.

    -Ian
     
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