Not a good driveshaft angle -- WITH PIC!!!!!

Dan: 27* is Not Too bad, but then again taint Too Good either. Your right, your best bet may be just to reweld the perches and do away with the shims.

Don't forget that your fill plug will be MUCH lower. Will have to compensenate for that somehow.

 

Dan: The angle of the driveline is not as much of a problem as the angle of the transfercase to the angle of the rear end. The closer you can keep those two angles to each other the less problems with ujoints and vibrations. Good Luck!! Glenn

 

xxxx

Talked to guy today who claims to be running 22*. Says he has no trouble but, ehh, sure looked steep to me.

 

Wow Dan, looks like you gotta drop that x-fer case a few or something. Good luck buddy!

Edit:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...p;rd=1&item=7911938895&category=33585

 

I would lower the x member about 1-1/4" had to do that for my 62 5 with T98 my drive shaft is a lot shorter now it's not to bad

 

Dan: The pinon angle looks OK, but the Xcase?

If you havent lowered it, I'd try at least 1" to 1 1/4" and see how it looks then. If it's still too bad--well--CV joint.

BTW, mine is stock drivetrain and lowered 1 1/16" with a 3* shim in the rear.

 

yeh like everyone else said tcase looks bad but pinion... heck that cant be more then a few deg of angle.

 

Hey Dan, I had the same problem (27*) on my flatfender. I didn't want to tilt the motor/trans/transfer case and loose ground clearance at the skid plate. The good folks at High Angle Driveline recommened I first rotate the pinion up untill it was pointed 2* below T.C. yoke(this will shorten the life of the front pinion bearing but not adversely because my rig will see only 1000 miles or so a year), reweld the mounts. Then I found a cover that already had the filler hole higher(I don't remember what it came off of but it's factory D44) than my stock '70 CJ5 D44 . Next, I got a front CV driveline from a Wagoneer. Wrecking yards a full of them or try IFSJA.com website . I cut it down and rewelded it myself. So far I'm into the whole set up $35.00. It has a wobble but is good enough until I find out how much flex my new suspension has and I can determine a correct length. Then I'll get a new CV driveshaft or have this one aligned and balanced locally. It's alot of work but there just isn't an alternative if you don't want to throw alot of money at it by having it done.

 

The front FSJ driveshaft sounds good to me. You can have it professionally shortened and you'll be many bucks ahead.

If you're "in tune" with your Jeep, you can feel a u-joint failing. The driveshaft will be out of balance and you'll feel the new vibration. If that happens, remove the rear driveshaft for the trip home (what I did) or change it in the field with the BFH and drift that you carry when wheeling.

 

Dan how much lift do you have?
I was going to say CV but your going that route anyhow.

 

correct me if i'm wrong, but the tom woods shafts come with a no questions asked warranty don't they? it's been a while since i bought mine, and i know something like that pushed me toward the woody.

also, i don't know if you know this (i hate seeming like i'm talking down to people...) but like willysworker said; you're probably still going to have to point the front of the differential up somewhat to get the right angle going into the pinion. sure cured my rear end vibes on the cherokee so i consider the cv joints money well spent.

 

I might have the same problem with mine. I'll have to check it. Between the 465 swap (longer) and the SOA conversion (higher) it definitely is cause for concern.

 

I went the Woods route on mine also... rotating axle so pinion is pointing 1.5-2 degrees below rear output of xfercase, cv joint, long travel (power deliverd to rear axle always makes the axle rotate upwards). Be sure you have the ubolts at all yokes, no straps. Follow Woods recommendations about the rotated axle if you have oil blowing out your breather hose- add 1 cup of atf. This still did not do the job for me. I added a second breather on my diff cover, back side of teeth side of the ring gear (away from most of the oil violence), and that cured that problem.
Another problem you may have with rotating the axle is not being able to completely purge all air out of brake line at slave cylinder because of the new angle... jack up vehicle at rear to make angle near stock. An old timer told me this, but it would seem that maybe the flow of brake fluid would force the air out no matter what angle. Maybe someone has better insight...