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Overdrive Question

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Southtowns27, May 11, 2004.

  1. May 11, 2004
    Southtowns27

    Southtowns27 Custom Title

    The Backhills of...
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    I just got my used overdrive. It came assembled and I can't get the big main drive gear off of it to bolt it up inside the T-case. Is there a trick to this or do I just gently pry it off? I figured I'd ask here before I broke something :oops:
    Thanks in advance
     
  2. May 11, 2004
    65CJ5

    65CJ5 Member

    Albuquerque
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    Sep 22, 2002
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    As I recall you shouldn't have to unassemble anything on the OD to get it in there. You have to pull the gear out of the transfer case is all.

    Stan
     
  3. May 11, 2004
    1969_CJ5

    1969_CJ5 Sponsor

    North Carolina
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    Check out the following link... FYI... the saturn OD is the same as the Warn....

    OverDrive Docs The Warn color manual was provided by a member of this site "DSG"... Thanks again!
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2010
  4. May 11, 2004
    Southtowns27

    Southtowns27 Custom Title

    The Backhills of...
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    Thanks for the input, but nothing listed is any help. My unit looks exactly like what is on the front cover of the color Warn manual. On the first page of that manual, the planetary gear unit is seperate from the rest of the overdrive. I haven't been able to figure out how to get the two apart....
     
  5. May 12, 2004
    vanguard

    vanguard

  6. May 12, 2004
    vanguard

    vanguard

  7. May 12, 2004
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    The planetary gear should only be held to the case by the synchros. It may be glued together with grease but it doesn't really attach to the case. The planetary gear set is attached to the output shaft of the transmission after you remove the bull gear from the shaft. Then the case it bolted to the transfer case, taking care to mesh the gear and synchro ring. You might have to turn the case to get the gears to mesh while you put the case in. Hope this all makes sense.
     
  8. May 12, 2004
    JAB

    JAB Member

    Genesee, WI
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    No, it's not that simple. You have to bolt on that bowl gear (or what ever they call it) with that special nut & adapter & clip retainer, then you just bolt it on & figure out the linkage. I'm in the proccess of rebuilding mine now (overtime is paying for it but preventing me from actually doing it); in fact the parts ($600 worth :evil: ) should arrive tomorrow 8) .

    I'll bet that when the guy pulled it he put it back together so that you wouldn't lose the small nut, retainer, & other stuff that holds it in place on back of the transmission mainshaft. If that's the case it's probably stuck on the bearing like mine was. The Novak directions for rebuilding the transfercase specifically mention NOT prying it off if it doesn't come easy, as things can go POP! & parts can go flying everywhere, or break. I had to follow the suggestion of using a slide hammer to separate things just to get at the afore mentioned retainer, etc. Then, when it got hung up right on the end I had to improvise a "pusher" (as opposed to a puller) out of nuts & threaded rod to push it (keep tension on it while I was in that awkward position under there) that last 1/4" while still trying the slide hammer. This will be hard to explain, but maybe you'll be able to understand since it's right in front of you. If not, we can both go to the same picture of an exploded view & refer to that while I explain what parts are probably hanging up (that I had to separate). It was REALLY stuck on that bearing. I suppose before we get too carried away you should try to gently pry it. I'll go look at those sites & see if I can find the bearing I'm referring to in case that doesn't do it.

    BTW, you DO have a Warn or Saturn right? Not the (I forget, was it Husky?) other brand that looks the same but has no common parts at all?
     
  9. May 12, 2004
    JAB

    JAB Member

    Genesee, WI
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    OK, using the above link, from the previous post a few up the list; go to page 6. Parts 11, 12, 13, & 14 are what you need to get at to install part number 1. I'll bet that your unit is stuck on the bearing (which is shown on page 7 as part number 3) that goes into part number 9. In the drawing on page 7, bearing 3 goes all the way to the machined surface near the "stop" machined near the gear end. This in turn is inside of part number 9 (on page 6) pretty deep, so you have to slide it about an inch & a half or so to free it up. I know, it sounds more confusing than it is, but it's the best I can do. :oops: Since mine was installed I had to take the rear cap off & loosen nut number 5 (on page 7) & install my slide hammer into the portion of the nut that I exposed by loosening it. (Yeah, I ruined a nut that they charged me $10 for but my slide hammer had no adapter that would work except to expand it inside that nut.) So now, if it didn't pry off, you need to figure out how to pull on shaft number one (or nut number 5) on page 7 while holding the rest of the assembly captive, all without ruining anything.

    Good luck, let us knowhow much fun it was! I hope it just pops off easily for you!!!!!!
     
  10. May 12, 2004
    Southtowns27

    Southtowns27 Custom Title

    The Backhills of...
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    Thanks JAB, that sounds like my problem. I can't imagine mine can be too stuck since the PO had it apart and degreased the entire thing before selling it. I'll try prying on it GENTLY and see what happens. Maybe I should do this on the floor so when it does pop apart I don't lose anything...lol. I'll give it a try tomorrow hopefully, I'll keep you posted on the progress
     
  11. May 12, 2004
    Southtowns27

    Southtowns27 Custom Title

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    Haha, we were both replying at the same time. That makes A LOT (!!!) more sense now. I think I'll spray it all up with some PB Blaster before I attempt anything. THANKS!!!!
     
  12. May 12, 2004
    JAB

    JAB Member

    Genesee, WI
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    Don't laugh.............I had to "force" mine apart once before (don't remember why) & it slipped right in when I put it back on! Maybe I cocked it during removal & it jammed good? I hope it goes better for you!
     
  13. May 12, 2004
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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  14. May 24, 2004
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Thanks to JAB for mentioning the bearing holding things together. I bought an OD for the wagon and couldn't figure out what was holding it together. I was able to clamp the smooth section of the (bowl gear?) snugly in a vise and tapped it apart with a plastic headed hammer, as suggested by Novak. Relief! Novaks' plastic hammer suggestion was for removing it from the t-case, but still same idea. ;) Another ten minutes and I finally figured out you use a 1/2" square drive to tighten the special nut. :D
     
  15. May 24, 2004
    JAB

    JAB Member

    Genesee, WI
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    My repair parts from Advance Adapters arrived 2 weeks ago & I finally had a few hours to rebuild & install mine yesterday. What a fiasco!
    1) I opened the box & plastic wrap on one of the needle type roller bearings............It was missing one needle!
    2) the bearing that sort of holds it all together was already installed......................it needs to be installed on the shaft BEFORE it goes into the bore (luckily I have an "internal" puller on a slide hammer or I'd still be installing those little needles in the worm gears!)
    3) The 6-32 tapped holes in the HARDENED steel gear carrier were tapped with a dull tap & the screws would only go in one turn. How do you re-tap or chase threads in hardened steel, especially that small!? Do you realize how easy it is to break a 6-32 tap?! I finally, very slowly & carefully got it re-tapped with a brand new tap about 1 1/2 X the screw dia.........about 4 1/2 turns. This is supposedly all you need in thread engagement for maximum holding strenght, so I cut the screws to match. I think this is only needed to hold it together during installation anyway, as once it's installed they really don't serve any purpose, but still.......

    In hooking up the driveshafts I noticed that the front diff is "stiff". Turns out one hub didn't unlock, it's still stuck. I flat towed it all the way from Attica like that :evil: So that's next on the list, the list with no end.

    So it's all together, re-built transfer case, re-built over drive & no chance for a test drive as starting it would have woke up the kids. For what I spent in repair parts I should have sold the over-drive (it worked good, I just noticed the wear while looking it over as part of the t-case re-build) & used the money for the Novak kit for the t-case :evil:

    Are we having fun yet?! 8)
     
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