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  1. Sep 13, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

    Republic of Texas
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2015
    Messages:
    1,101
    I decided to rattle can a number of black things on the engine, body, etc. I used a name brand automotive etching primer and automotive black. The black just seems too brittle and delicate. For example, bolts on the the engine mounting brackets for the generator, fan, oil canister, inside floor pans, etc., it just chips off. On the floor pans, which are not really torqued down, the paint under and sometimes around the bolt heads chips off. Putting the throttle linkage thru the floor, if it barely catches, it chips. Same for brake and clutch pedals. Only the black chips off, as you can see the primer still there. I'm not trying to build a garage queen, but still want it to look nice. I know I could always touch it up, but this is crazy. I don't seem to remember factory black paint being so delicate. Should I be using something else? I have decided to take the floor pans and peals in to get powder coated.
     
  2. Sep 13, 2018
    Focker

    Focker Ran when parked... Runs while moving. Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2014
    Messages:
    5,342
    Powder coating is the best.

    I typically paint those things once installed to avoid chips.
     
  3. Sep 13, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    1,452
    I have had a similar experience with the spray can self-etching primer and paint I put on my sliders. A lot of little things I paint with regular spray can primer and paint have held up pretty well. A lot times it was just generic Ace brand 'Rust-Stop' paint - their equivalent to Rustoleum I guess. The sliders I decided to try make a bit more durable and thus tried the self-etching primer and then the paint. I agree, the paint chips off in a very brittle manner - from what I can tell, its the paint chipping off the primer as opposed to the paint and primer chipping off the metal (which would be more in the pre-paint metal prep category). I prepped the metal with wire wheel for abrasion and degreaser (probably brake cleaner). In hindsight and after some more research - I probably should have let the self-etch primer dry for a couple days, then sanded a bit then painted over. Maybe that would have helped with the primer paint bond. At this point, I would probably go back to my old normal primer and paint method, and maybe try a more durable paint like Hammerite or something...interested to see what people have to say on self-etch as I've got a lot to learn as well.
     
  4. Sep 13, 2018
    TIm E

    TIm E Sponsor Sponsor

    NW Arkansas
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2017
    Messages:
    323
    Obviously the 2 part with hardener is always better, but doesn't always make sense for smaller parts or quick jobs. Historically I have used the Rustoleum Industrial with fairly good results. Recently tried the Krylon Industrial and it seems to be a much more durable product. Not sure if it helps, but I try to stick with the same brand primer...figure that's what they do in their product development and durability testing.
     
    ojgrsoi likes this.
  5. Sep 13, 2018
    jjdebarros

    jjdebarros Sponsor Sponsor

    Spokane, WA
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2017
    Messages:
    38
    Has anyone tried the Eastwood 2K Aerospray?

    I rattle can sprayed my bumper with what I thought would work, but splashed some gas on it and it washed off like it was chalk.:mad:
     
  6. Sep 13, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

    Republic of Texas
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2015
    Messages:
    1,101
    So, how does the factory do it?
     
  7. Sep 13, 2018
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Tantallon, Nova...
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2003
    Messages:
    5,035
    Enamel or lacquer?
     
  8. Sep 13, 2018
    jjdebarros

    jjdebarros Sponsor Sponsor

    Spokane, WA
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2017
    Messages:
    38
    It was a POR Top Coat
     
  9. Sep 14, 2018 at 12:26 AM
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor Sponsor

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2014
    Messages:
    1,532
    Most self-etching primers contain talc to feather and make sanding easier. Unless you scuff the primer with an agressive paper, most paints don't adhere well to self-etch. The talc also absorbs moisture in humid locations like where I am, causing rust under the paint after a couple years. I quit using it over 15 years ago when I found out why I was having problems. By the way, the "etching" part is the reducer, not the paint!
    Now, for anything good, I use true two-part epoxy primer from Southern Polyurethane (SPI). I also have great luck using Rustoleum brand "Rusty Metal Primer" and their Satin Black #7777. These rattle can paints have their quirks, mainly very long dry times to full cure, but once fully cured, they are very durable. The Gloss Black doesn't seem to have the durability of the satin.
    -Donny
     
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  10. Sep 14, 2018 at 8:02 AM
    PeteL

    PeteL Member Sponsor

    Hills of NH
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2003
    Messages:
    5,698
    Rustoleum rattle-can has always worked well for me.
     
    Twin2, 3b a runnin and ojgrsoi like this.
  11. Sep 14, 2018 at 8:20 AM
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    18,911
    I have used the SPI 2K epoxy primer. It comes in black, and it makes a good general-purpose black paint. Epoxy paint will yellow with lengthy exposure to sunlight, but supposedly SPI now adds a UV stabilizer to the mix to prevent yellowing. The hot rod guys like this primer a lot, both as a primer and as a general purpose chassis coating. It's a 2K product, but you can mix small quantities and spray or brush on. It does not come out glossy, but it's not flat either.

    I also like the Ace (or Rustoleum, but Ace is cheaper and as good) barbecue black for quick painting of random black objects. Likely the flattener in the paint keeps it softer to prevent chipping from assembly. It also has a lot of pigment, dries very fast, and covers well. If you want glossy black in a spray can, again I would suggest the Ace paint. Assemble and touch up any chips with a little paint sprayed into the cap and applied with a small camels-hair brush (artists type). I have a tin can screwed to the garage wall with my touch-up brushes, along with a few chip brushes and flux brushes. Very handy.

    For silver, if you must use a spray can, the Rustoleum silver engine paint is really good. However, I prefer Aluthane if I can brush it on. Good stuff, and really tough when fully cured.

    IME the Rusoleum "rusty metal primer" takes forever to get really hard. Days. Weeks. Or it never gets really hard. Aluthane is a much better rusty metal primer, IMO.
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2018 at 11:52 AM
  12. Sep 14, 2018 at 9:34 AM
    baldjosh

    baldjosh Sponsor Sponsor

    pacific north west
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2017
    Messages:
    176
    I use Zero-rust, direct to metal, a little expensive but ive been really impressed with the durability
    upload_2018-9-14_6-34-25.jpeg
     
  13. Sep 17, 2018 at 9:15 PM
    masscj2a

    masscj2a Sponsor Sponsor

    Chester Mass
    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2013
    Messages:
    361
    I either sand blast or wire wheel most small parts. And when I am only doing one or two small items, I use the Rustoleum professional series primer and paint. It works well. I only let the primer set for a few minutes until dry to the touch, then spray right over with the color. It melts right into the primer. May take a second coat, but that's not a problem. Another thing I find with the Rustoleum, is the cans are larger and spray forever. I also use Eastwood products and like them as well, but for price and something available at a Rockys or other hardware store, Rustoleum Professional series is hard to beat for the buck.
     
    ojgrsoi likes this.

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