Rotating Squeak?

@Fireball and @Oldpappy !
Success!
1 whack on the pass side separated the hub from the drum, so I had to work a little harder on that side.
Driver side took 5 whacks to come free.
2 axle shafts on the bench!

Pass side bearing feels like it has gravel in it, grease was orangey/rust-ish. Im confident that that’s my squeak.

Both sides bearings feel “sloppy” inner race to outer.
Do you all think it’s worth it to try cleaning and re-packing?
I’m pretty sure your reply will be to replace, just thought I’d ask…

Thanks again Everybody!

Andy

 

Glad that worked.

If there is any roughness in the bearing you need to replace it and the outer race. If you clean them up, you'll most likely see rust and pitting.

 

Probably water intrusion. Take the axles and new bearings to a machine shop to have them pressed on, as that is the easiest way to do it and that way the bearings will be properly seated.

While you have the axles out is a real good time to clean out the housing and pumpkin. I use kerosene or diesel fuel for this. Drain the gear oil from the pumpkin. Some axles have a drain plug, some don't and if that is what you have you drain it by loosening the cover. Replace the plug or tighten the cover then fill the pumpkin with kerosene, make a swab with a piece of broom handle and a rag soaked with kerosene to clean out the tubes, then plug the tubes with rags and spin the unit enough to flush it out clean. Drain the kerosene, remove the differential cover wipe our any crud in the bottom and rinse it by spraying more kerosene in there, then let it dry out. The kerosene will evaporate. Once dry and clean, and you reassemble with new seals, and gaskets, being sure to replace all of the shims where you found them. Once the retainers are bolted on check endplay on the axles as described in the TSM. If there is not enough endplay the bearings will be too tight and will fail quickly so read up on this, and watch videos preferably the one out there by "Metalshaper".

Once you are sure the preload on the bearings (axle end play) is within tolerance, finish assembly and refill the pumpkin with the correct gear oil for your differential. You didn't say whether yours is a limited slip, or open differential and these take different oils.

 

New bearings if there is any perceptible roughness.

 

Yes, new bearings are certainly called for with what you describe.

The later model civilian axles do not have grease fittings for the bearing flanges as did the older versions, and military axles, so the bearings usually do not get serviced as they should. For this reason, my SOP is to install new bearings whenever I have one that far apart, and if it is a Jeep I intend to keep and use a lot I often will go ahead and install a grease fitting and vent so I can repack the bearings without pulling it all apart.

Whenever I use a Jeep in a situation likely to cause water intrusion, such as crossing streams, soon afterwards I will drain the gear oil to check for water and if there is any indication of it I will flush and refill the pumpkins and repack the wheel bearings on both axles.

 

I drove my CJ2A down to the barn today. It has sat for a while, because I have been more focused on my CJ5. Low and behold I had a "rotating squeak", and was reminded of this thread. It cleared up after going down the hill and using the brakes a bit so probably just rust in one of the rear drums.

 

Picked up bearings this morning from Napa. The cups and seals they had to order for tomorrow. Hopefully they are correct but at least I can drop the axles and bearings off at the shop tomorrow!

 

Thought I’d put this thread to bed.
Squeak is gone!
@ITLKSEZ was pretty confident that the split hub caused the squeak and I’m not inclined to disagree but I’m glad that everything from the bearings out is now replaced.

Thank you all for your help and replies!

Timing chain coming soon so be sure to stay tuned for more silly questions!

Andy