Servicing Rear Wheel Bearings???

You really cant see or get to the spacer from the diff cover unless you pull the whole carrier out. Easiest to just look down the axle tube and verify they are in place. It looks like the pic below. One goes in from each side as oriented in the photo with the roll pin down through the center of them to keep them in place. You should just see the wide end looking down each axle tube.

 

What prompted you to pull the axle apart? When you pulled the hub off, it came off too easy. It looks like it was loose on the taper, as I see rust on the taper and in the hub. The hub should have been quite tight on the taper, but yours was not tight, and was "working" causing the rust seen in your photo. I'm suprised the key was not sheared.
You will need to clean and inspect both surfaces for proper fit when ready to re-assemble.
-Donny

 

Because it's there.
I'm restoring a Jeep and I figured checking the wheel bearings is part of that. I did notice that the nut was loose recently so I moved this up to the top of the list.

 

The one I posted is for a Power Lok rear diff. If you have an open rear diff, there may be something different in there for a spacer. Tapered axles have a "floating" spacer so the two axle shafts can move side to side as one unit to set end play with shims. Later flanged axles dont use a spacer as end play is pre-set by the dimensions of the unit bearing and backing plate. To quote Forest Gump, that's all I know about that

 

Just curious, does anyone make a 1 piece axle, for what we know as the tapered 44?

 

I did quite a bit of looking awhile back to no avail. They used to be available, but I dont believe anyone is making them anymore. A custom axle shop could likely make some, but I would think finding a complete later flanged axle would be a more cost effective solution.

 

I'm not sure if I'm happy for you or upset that you didn't get the full experience of getting a hub off a tapered axle like I did. I'll try and be happy for you .

 

Got into it tonight. Driver side came apart easy but the seals are completely toast here. Passenger side I needed a puller for the hub and slide hammer for the axle. Seals and bearing cup are better on passenger side. Bearings seem okay both sides but I think I’ll just change out everything.

Couple photos and questions.

Inside axle tube driver side. Seems chewed up a bit compared to the passenger side. Is this going to be a problem? How big a problem? The bearing seems to seat down there well.
Driver side...


Passenger side


I couldn’t get the brake line off as the nut is really close to the flange of the axle. I ended up cutting the line. Anyone grind the flange on the axle for clearance on the nut?

 

Here ya go. It was still pretty easy. Sorry.

 

I don't want to rain on your parade, But, I have never seen anyone pull a hub with a little puller like that. Those hubs usually take a larger puller and a big hammer to remove, and don't stand in front of it when hitting it, they are known to brake things when they fly off. You need to take a good look at the taper in both the hub and on the axel, maybe blue it and put it back on, and pull it back off to see that you have full contact in the tapper. If not you may have to emery cloth the axel and the hub until they make full contact. Your wheel could come off while driving. Good luck

 

Thanks Rick. I’ll definitely look further into this. After You have good surface do you put grease (anti-seize) on the taper?

 

Inspect that hub very carefully for a crack. It definitely should not come off that easily and like Donny sez you should not have any rust on the taper area. Rust means there is a gap between the hub and the axle. If the hub is cracked it will continue to get looser as you drive which is what appears to be the case. Also no grease.

 

I did. The line/nut is just to close to the flange of the axle tube to get the wrench on it.

So I guess I didn’t use the correct wrench. I used the cutters.

 

A crack? Like this?
I guess I’m ordering new hubs as well.

 

Your wheel cylinder is probably an aftermarket piece. The original had the line come in more to the side (right and left) rather than angled to the bottom.
-Donny