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Soa And Steering Issues

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by cjbilly, Feb 21, 2020.

  1. Feb 22, 2020
    Ns0mniac

    Ns0mniac Member

    San Clemente, CA
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    I second the Roxor axle idea, they're an extremely competitive option.
     
  2. Feb 22, 2020
    Cowboyjeeper

    Cowboyjeeper Member

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    Wonder if a standard hi steer kit would work on those
     
  3. Feb 22, 2020
    Ns0mniac

    Ns0mniac Member

    San Clemente, CA
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    It's a ball joint 44 so I believe that you could throw some flat top knuckles from a ~78ish Wagoneer Dana 44 on there and have those machined for high steer arms. Anything with high steer arms will greatly increase the cost of the project, you may get away to start out with a bent tie rod like the one in the Rocky road kit.
     
  4. Feb 22, 2020
    Cowboyjeeper

    Cowboyjeeper Member

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    Arent those extremly unsafe? If that would work the rocky road kit could probly be easily adapted to the 44
     
  5. Feb 22, 2020
    Ns0mniac

    Ns0mniac Member

    San Clemente, CA
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    To be honest I don't know, I'm sure a properly set up high steer would fare better but I've never ridden in a rig equipped with a bent drag link, which is what I meant to say before, not a bent tie rod :whistle:
     
  6. Feb 22, 2020
    Cowboyjeeper

    Cowboyjeeper Member

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    i fogured thats what you meant haha. I havent either my first jeep had a y link that would hit the springs under full turn and stuffed
     
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  7. Feb 22, 2020
    jeep2003

    jeep2003 Well-Known Member

    Upstate NY
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    Thats how mine is with the Z bar. There are really only two things I dont like about it. The cross bar twists a bit when steering. which causes slop in the steering wheel. Not much but its there. could be solved with a two hole knuckle. the other is clearance iv bent it a couple times. Not enough room to flip it i dont think but im going to try if i ever get a 2 hole knuckle.
     

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  8. Feb 22, 2020
    Cowboyjeeper

    Cowboyjeeper Member

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    that looks like it works well though.
     
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  9. Feb 22, 2020
    jeepstar

    jeepstar Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sheboygan
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    Not available in 5.38
     
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  10. Feb 22, 2020
    Cowboyjeeper

    Cowboyjeeper Member

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    if i recall right 538 requires a new carrier anyhow correct? I know a regular d44 carrier will work normally. If you can get or have a gear set ot wouldnt be too bad again just my.02
     
  11. Feb 22, 2020
    Ns0mniac

    Ns0mniac Member

    San Clemente, CA
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    The carrier break is 3.73 down and 3.96 up, 5.38 fits on a 3.96 up (aka "4 series") carrier.

    There are thick gear sets available in most 3.96 up ratios that allow you to use them on a 3.73 down carrier.
     
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  12. Feb 22, 2020
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    If you're patient, Roxor axles should come in 5.38 soon because they've switched to it for the standard ratio on 2020 Roxors.
     
  13. Feb 22, 2020
    Ns0mniac

    Ns0mniac Member

    San Clemente, CA
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    If you want to add some track width you could grab a matching front and rear set of Dana 44's from an FSJ Wagoneer or Cherokee. To get an offset rear you'd need it to be a 75(ish) to 79 automatic. That's what my Jeep has, thicker tubes than the Roxor or stock axles, 30 spline carriers, 1 piece rear axles, 61.5" front WMS 59.5 rear WMS, the Cherokee Chief has a wider WMS measurement. They're nice axles, I enjoy the added track width for stability. Only downsides are the high gearing from the factory (commonly 3.54's), the fact that you need 6 lug wheels (can be converted but that adds cost) and the need to outboard the front spring mounts. Might be more work than you're looking for, might not. Just thought I'd share! Oh, and the Waggy front axles come with the flat top knuckles I mentioned before, still need machining for high steer though.
     
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  14. Feb 24, 2020
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    Here's a solution from the October 1995 issue of "4 Wheel Drive and Sport Utility Magazine." You'd better have some serious confidence in your welding abilities before attempting this....
    Look at those old Goodyear MTs.(y)


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. Feb 24, 2020
    Sierra Bum

    Sierra Bum Member

    The High Sierra
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    Way to dig that up....1995....that was right when spoa was getting more popular.
     
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  16. Feb 25, 2020
    y2grey

    y2grey Member

    Fayetteville NY
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    That is not an RR Z-Link. I have one in the MB5. Once we got the caster corrected no issues at all. 70 MPH, on hand on the wheel.
     
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  17. Feb 25, 2020
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    Guys, if your drag link is anything but near-parallel to your tie rod, you will have bump steer unless your springs are so stiff they don’t move. It’s just physics.

    If your drag link is bent or welded, the integrity of the drag link is compromised, and it is dangerous. It may work for you, but I wouldn’t call it a solution to the problem.

    To solve the issue, you either need to lower the steering box and/or pitman arm, or raise the steering arm on the knuckle.
     
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  18. Feb 25, 2020
    Cowboyjeeper

    Cowboyjeeper Member

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    dumb question dosent the rocky road link make it parrallel in theory? Or is that a problem as well. That kit seems to have good reviews. Thoughts?
     
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  19. Feb 25, 2020
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    The drag link ends are point A and point B. The route the link takes between those two points is irrelevant. If those points are more than a few degrees out of parallel to the tie rod, bump steer will result.

    The suspension travels in a vertical plane. The drag link travels in an arc with the tie rod end at the pitman arm being the pivot point. When (point A and point B of) the drag link and tie rod are parallel, the effects of the differing travels (vertical vs. arc) go unnoticed because the drag link is at its furthest travel point.

    When points A and B are on more than a few degree angle, the drag link will “grow” as the suspension compresses, forcing the tires to turn right on loads and left on unloads.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2020
  20. Feb 25, 2020
    Cowboyjeeper

    Cowboyjeeper Member

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    Ok that makes sense. Thanks
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
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