Sparton Signal Restore

So I'm restoring my spartan switch.

Picts tomorrow.

I pulled the original spartan loom complete to the switch when I pulled it out of the jeep. I should have left a few more mm on the female receptacles when I was after it with the side cutters. The male connectors are good and complete at the bottom of loom.

Full of dirt. Haunta virus might be in there.

Anyway. Pulled the switch and connector board apart excellent condition. Soaking the grease on the plastic, spring and switch parts off tonight.

Polished the switch handle to get rid of the rust. Trying to decide if I want to paint it or cold blue it. Really looks good polished up.

Put the case sans green lens and cancel wheel post thru the blaster. Green lens got some 600 then 1000 grit and looks mighty fine. Now I just have to figure out how to re-stick the lens in the case so it doesn't fall in.

Now to shake and shoot the metal stuff tomorrow.

The cancel wheel is short, I thought I'd flip it over, but an engineer before me prevented that... The original designer so to say...

Need to figure how to build up the cancel wheel a little.

Cheers

 

That's something I'll have to do one day...

My unit was installed too low. So I move it up the steering shaft so that the cancel wheel rub against the base of steering wheel which put a bit more stress on the wires - and all my turn signal stop working. Something is seriously loose in there... I really can't wait to see your pictures of the inside. In the meantime, I lowered the unit back to where it was located and now its been working fine for the past few months. I'm slowly getting use to turn the signal off manually.

 

Pictures - lots and lots... 'before'

 

Aah yes, they joy of stuffing those tiny triangle thingies back in while keeping the springs from becoming airborne in to that dark hole in the shop. Nice job.

 

Very good work, sir. I have never inside one of those mysterious units.

Would a dab of clear silicone/sealant hold the green lens in place?

 

When I tear one of these down for repair, I install a ground wire for the indicator bulb. A small wire 16-18 gauge with eyelet under the bulb housing screw and run it down the black tubing with the other wires. The other end of this wire connected to the dash panel for ground. Now my indicator light will work without removing paint from my steering column housing. The indicator bulb is the only thing in the turn signal switch that requires a ground. Just FYI.

 

Excellent advise. I'm waiting for the paint to cure before I put it back together. Pictures will follow.

 

bulb shows 53 W on it I think.

might be similar to this
http://www.elightbulbs.com/GE-25550...oogleBaseCSE?gclid=CMi2jLP4yb8CFa9r7AodAC8A6Q

 

Here's the finished product.
looking at the Picts, I realized the column bracket is hanging on bailing wire over the work bench... Better install that before it sprouts legs.

I added Walt's upgrade of the ground wire to the clamp that holds the bulb. I used 'thick' bailing wire crimped over the end of the ground wire to fish my ground wire through the loom. this was a general bugger to do.

I polished the handle with 600grit to remove the rust and such. I decided that I didn't want to paint it, so I put 4 coats of cold-blue on it. I think it's pretty spiffy. I hope it holds off the rust a little while. I suppose I could shake and shoot clear over it.

used 800grit on the green lens. Very carefully pried lens out of the housing from the back side (it is inserted from the front side them 'melted' on the back to hold it). Used gorilla glue, dab at each end of the lense as it expands, it seemed perfect. I think it will work.

This is shake and shoot gloss black over same-brand self-etch primer on the housing.

The shiny clamp on the back was rusty and I simply polished it with the dremel.

took some doing to make sure I had it reassembled correctly to make the wheel self-cancel. You have to have the handle on the mechanism and the spacers just so... take a lot of pictures or reassemble it a few times like I did.

 

Wow. that looks great. Nice job.

 

thanks for for the likes everyone.

Gee I could almost pay you to take it off my hands it sounds like.
I don't know about the shipping, seems like about $15 or so. Think the channel crossing fee on the ferry to the island puts a bit more on it. Then there is the gas transport fee, the total mileage transport fee. Tire disposal fee. The California dust abatement and carbon credit fee, did I forget about the local shake and shoot VOC offset tax for woodstove improvement? There was the plastic bag tax added at the hardware store. It also has a rare chromed canceling wheel bearing support surface I forgot to mention. After I add the recovery for the north regional digital photo tax combined with the disposable battery recovery tax...

well, at this point I think it's just not quite for sale as the tax would be too much to calculate

 

excellent job Dane.

 

Hmmm. I took gobs of pictures. Didn't look at my FSM on either my spare or the original. I found my spare on CL in St. Louis, MO... Google foo.

wonder if you could move the guts of a new 'chrome one' one into one of these. Is the wheel there minus the rubber, or is the whole thing gone?

Ill root around the FSM I havE and see what it says.

 

It's more than just blinkers. The brake lights come thru here as well.

Focker: will PM you. I have some spare parts.

 

This may help. I have found this page helpful many times.

http://home.comcast.net/~sday77/binky/

Navigate to "Repair Info" then "Turn Signals"

Jon

 

Nice job! I usto grab them from junk yard jeeps all the time and mix match parts to make working units. But pickens have been slim the past 5 years or so