Steering Shaft Question

Hi All,

A client of my wfes recently gifted her (yes, gifted) a cherry 1972 CJ5. In addition to the built 304, it has an all new lift kit and steering box. It drives pretty good, but, like most, I would like to be sure every item that can affect steering is addressed. I know I need an alignment and possible shims for caster, but obviously that is going to have to wait until the virus situation blows over. I have had old cars/trucks, but this is my first CJ.

What I can address is my steering shaft. Grabbing the steering wheel, I can pull up on the shaft approx 1". Is this normal, or acceptable? Any guidance is much appreciated.

BTW, after looking through all the Jeep forums and Facebook groups I have decided to ask any questions on earlycj5.com only, as you folks seem to have the best answers on tech questions. Thanks so much!

Mel

 

Congrats and welcome to the forum!
Someone more familiar with the intermediates will chime in....

 

i would lean towards no!

its a free jeep, its junk, ill be over to pick it up tomorrow. thanks.

 

No, not normal. Is the steering wheel loose also ? Is the coller on shaft bolted to the dash ? Clamp for shaft on firewall ? Shaft coupling tight or worn? Check bell coupling to steering box.

 

Quite an awesome gift.

Here is the factory configuration ('72-75 all the same):



The bell coupling at the steering gear is often worn out. That just makes the connection sloppy; it originally has some in-out capability from the factory. This accomodates the length change between the body and frame due to frame flex.

As I recall, the in-out motion for the wheel is limited by the washer, bushing and collar just above the u-joint. There is an indent in the shaft for the u-joint pinch bolt, and the combined length of all this stuff is just longer than the length of the column tube. There is a cup bearing at the steering wheel that the shaft rests against and the wheel turns on. No in-out in the steering wheel. The steering wheel is attached tightly to the end of the shaft, and the shaft has to move if the wheel does.

The bushing and sleeve 10.346-1 is also a common service item for these near-50 yo Jeeps.

The u-joint looks kinda aftermarket. A replacement steering shaft is available that replaces the bell coupler, u-joint and lower shaft. Often the part for '76 or later* is assumed to be the same as the part for earlier models - it is not. Maybe you've got the wrong accessory steering shaft. Better still pics would help.

*Everything changes for 1976.

 

fwiw my 74 has some (not as much as yours)play there has for years.

 

Thanks all for the great info. I will take a look at this, get a few more pics, and report back.

 

Where are good sources for steering column parts?
Boots , bearings etc.
I discovered the nut holding the steering wheel is welded.

Can anyone tell me ...
What is the thread size on the steering shaft?
About how long are the threads?

 

The threads were cut off the shaft 1/2" above the spline. Steering wheel and shaft were welded to the shaft. Now I have to look for another shaft or complete column.

 

The threads were cut off the shaft 1/2" above the spline. Steering wheel and shaft were welded to the shaft. Now I have to look for another shaft or complete column.

 

My 74 has in and out play also. but not quite as much as your video shows, I think there is a large spring under the steering wheel that allows some normal in and out movement.

 

Thanks Ol Fogie. I forgot to put the spring back when i swapped an aftermarket wheel for a stock repo. Ill put it back in and see what that does, if anything

 

I have had my 74 since new and the in and out movement has always been there. The next time I am over at the shop where my jeep is stored I will see if I can get a measurement on how much travel there is. if I was guessing I would say about an inch.

 

I've seen, been around and briefly driven quite a few of these Jeeps. I would not say that an inch of in-out movement in the wheel is normal. Even if it was there from the factory, it's wrong. There is a contact and wiper for the horn that expects the contact hub to be in a specific place on the shaft. IIRC that hub is maybe 3/4" long? Something like that. I'd say that hub is not long enough to allow 1" of in-out movement without precision positioning on the shaft, if even then. 1/4" yes, maybe 3/8", but nothing like an inch. If It were mine, I'd want something less than 1/4" - not surprising if you can feel a bit of in-out motion when pulling on the wheel.

 

I was just guessing at how much it moves in and out. My jeep is at my bros work shop 30 miles away, when I am over there I will see if I can measure it. The in and out movement seems to be spring loaded with the steering wheel pushed up ward toward the driver. I have never taken it apart for anything though so I am not completely familiar with just how it is assembled. The tsm shows a coil type of spring just under the steering wheel. Oh and my horn has always worked.

 

Mine moves more now that the horn contact fell out.

 

You have an aftermarket shaft - probably borgeson - on there. it doesn't maintain the right spacing between the ujoin and the bushing at the button of the column. That round collar above the ujoint should have two hex bolts in it. Loosen them a bit, have a helper push the steering wheel down and move that collar up against the bushing at the bottom of the column tube then tighten up the bolts. I have the same setup on my 75. Also make sure you have the spring at the top near the steering wheel - it doesn't look like you do although it may not be completely necessary as long as the collar is tight against the column bushing with the wheel pushed in all the way. If this is confusing let me know. It's kind of hard to explain on the internet perhaps. I just pulled mine apart again to paint the tub so can get photos etc. But if you just move that collar up about half an inch you should have it. I put a little grease between the collar and the bushing too. I'd probably loosen that collar and regrease it once a year or so. Just a little bit goes a long way. I don't know what you have for a bushing at the bottom of the steering tube but the one from advance adapters works really nice. The OEM plastic bushing is a joke. Btw for anyone with a badly rusted column tube you can get the $20-25 one for the ross steering and cut it to fit as the Ross tube is the same setup but just needs some inches taken off at the bottom.