Stripped Split Nut

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by cj573, Sep 28, 2017.

  1. Sep 28, 2017
    cj573

    cj573 New Member

    Pittsburgh
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    Jan 27, 2017
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    I stripped the thread where the split nut goes any idea on how to fix it. I tried to rethread it,but it did not work,what size hole is this. I am going to try a bolt and rethread it that way
     
  2. Sep 28, 2017
    cj573

    cj573 New Member

    Pittsburgh
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    Jan 27, 2017
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    Sorry forgot the picture
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Sep 28, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    I would say that would be your second mistake..............your only going to get one shot at fixing that correctly.........borrow or rent a tap from a machine shop and make sure the re-entry is square to the bore.
     
    Bowbender likes this.
  4. Sep 29, 2017
    zila

    zila I throw poop

    Rock Springs,...
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    Oct 6, 2003
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    I recall having an issue with mine and I bought or borrowed the correct tap and re-tapped the threads... And no I don't remember the size.
     
  5. Sep 29, 2017
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Get a $20 Harbor Freight digital caliper and measure the hole diameter. Measure the thickness and count the number of threads. Thread count divided by the thickness is the thread pitch. Look on McMaster-Carr or elsewhere for a tap that matches the measured values. A big tap won't be cheap... thus the suggestion to make a friend at your local machine shop.
     
  6. Oct 2, 2017
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor Sponsor

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    When you find the correct tap, start it from the underside of the thread where you have a better chance to get it started straight in the original threads.
    -Donny
     
    Walt Couch likes this.
  7. Oct 3, 2017
    teletech

    teletech Member

    Live Oak, CA
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    Looks like you need a tap, not to be fussy about it, but there are multiple types of taps and you need either a roll tap or rethreading tap. They will take either no metal or very little, they just force the metal back into shape. A normal cut-thread tap will remove any deformed metal, allowing you to put everything back together but also removing some metal and weakening the threads. It would probably never matter, but if you really want to do it right that's the trick.
    Yes, as others have mentioned, a tap that size won't be cheap to buy new. Once you figure out what it is, by measuring or using a thread-gauge, you might try ebay or your local machine-tool secondhand store (if there is one near you).
     
    Bowbender likes this.
  8. Oct 11, 2017
    cj573

    cj573 New Member

    Pittsburgh
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    Jan 27, 2017
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    I am still having trouble getting this fixed,are the ball joints the same size for both driver and passenger side, the driver side went in no problem,did not feel tight at all going in, when i put the passenger side in.It goes about halfway pretty easy then it gets really hard to turn about halfway in,I even tried to come up from here bottom it is also hard to turn about halfway, I tried a 3/4 in.-14 NPT tap did not work,any other ideas would be greatly appreciated
     
  9. Oct 12, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    3/4 -14 NPT is a pipe thread tap that is tapered........ that is why it got tough about 1/2 way in.........I thought I had some of them old Dana parts around here that I could measure and gauge for you but I don't.
     
  10. Oct 12, 2017
    PeteL

    PeteL Member Sponsor

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    I'd say you should stop messing with it until you very clearly understand the correct thread size and standard, and develop a precise plan - before it gets permanently Fubar-ed.
     

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