Suggestions On Stabbing Engine

So finally got back to stabbing the engine back in. This is the first time doing a standard shift. Automatics are much easier! But after 30 mins of frustration, I packed it in for the day. I'm using a chain hoist so I have good fine control of the up and down. My problem is getting the shaft splines to line up. I've tried it in neutral and slowly rotating the shaft and trying again and again. Hanging on the chain, I have some rotational swinging but no go. Then I tried with it in gear. And no luck. Next I used a cresant wrench (don't have that big of a socket) to turn the crank a little. Again get multiple tries and no luck. I'm getting the engine and tranny pretty level and straight so I'm pretty sure it's the splines. So decided I didn't need more frustration so packed it in.

So what are the suggestions?

 

Yes I did use the alignment tool to install the clutch. I'm not sure I understand the part about turning the output shaft while in gear. If it's in gear and the rear wheels are on the ground, how can you turn the trans? I'm missing something.

 

Good idea on the starting the tooth at the 12 o'clock. I was afraid the magical 9 deminsions was part of the equation.

 

Installed engine to transmission have done it a few times. The transmission is probably drop down in the back. Put a nylon strap around the frame and under the TC and transmission. Lift the back of the transmission. The space between the engine block and bell housing should be equal all the way around. The engine needs to go straight in, if there is a angle, it will not happen. Using the strap you can rock the Jeep

 

When I am installing an engine and making up to transmission, I do the following.

First I install the clutch assembly onto the flywheel assuring the clutch disc is aligned properly. You said you did this.
Next I bolt the bellhousing to the transmission and install the throw out bearing, release arm, etc. This will keep these items aligned with each other as you proceed with the installation.
I then proceed to bring the engine and transmission assembly into alignment. I use the bolt circle of the bellhousing and rear of the block to determine how well the two are aligned. I can see if the engine needs to be raised or lowered, rotated left or right or tilted to square the two.
I continue to move the transmission and engine toward one another until I feel the transmission input shaft just contact the clutch disc.
At this point, if the transmission is in the vehicle, I put the transmission into gear and rock the vehicle slowly for and aft as I push the engine and transmission toward each other. You should be able to feel the transmission input shaft / clutch disc splines engage. At this point and with the shake, rattle and roll Howard mentioned, the two will fully engage.

 

All the above are good points. The alignment dowels can be all thread or bolts with the heads cut off. I usually try to have about 2-3" sticking out on the bell housing side of the engine. Slightly rounding or beveling the exposed end of the dowel helps. A small dab of grease on the end of the input shaft (main drive) also lets the assembly come together a little easier. Don't over do this and contaminate the clutch. By disconnecting the drive shafts from the transfer case you can easily turn an output shaft, 2wd makes it easier. when using the alignment dowels measure the gap between the back of the block and the bell housing top and bottom AND side to side, all measurements need to be very close and the two pieces will come together. Sacrificing a lizard or chicken (your option)under a full moon sometimes helps. Good Luck!

 

I'm not making fun of you, but there have been times I've spent HOURS trying to stab an engine and Trans. Don't give up, there's lots of good advice here, and I'm sure you'll get it bolted together eventually.

 

often times a fresh day brings good things,I often walk away only to go at it later and have things go smooth.

 

One thing that I learned the hard way was to always try the new disc on the input shaft. The splines in India or China might not be cut quite the same as in Detroit , more than once the spline count was off. Back then I was 6-2 190 pounds and the biggest guy in the shop so I always seemed to get the heavy jobs.

 

In my case, the clutch and tranny are the same so shouldn't be any mating issues. That day it was hot (over 150 in the shade with an ac blowing on you) and humid as hell (130%) and was trying to get too many things done on Father's Day. In any event, I did get the engine out of the garage and at least it's sitting in the engine compartment. I did remove the grill initially as recommended and that was definately a good call even if 4 bolts sheared off. We've got the last couple days of a grandson visit and rains, so I'll get back to it Wednesday or Thursday. The game plan is to lift it back up and get a clutch spline set to 12 o'clock as suggested earlier, then line up the input shaft spline to the 12 position, put trany in gear and start lowering it back into position. Make sure distance is the same all the way around so I know it's straight on, then put some pins in to act as guides and slide it in. I'm getting a correct size socket to allow turning the crank slowly if needed as I keep pressure on engine and hopefully it will slide in. At least that's the game plan......

 

My little buddy (grandson) is generally around and at 3, he repeats everything. And usually at the wrong time, like when Grammy or mom are around and I get in trouble. So I've learned to make up words that keep me safe. The little one still hasn't learned that 'what happens with Willie, stays with Willie' but I'm working with him on that part.

 

I had clutch issues, got the engine out and back in. Took about 5 hours, my son helped me for about a hour