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T15 rebuild

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by OleBlue, Jun 7, 2012.

  1. Aug 28, 2012
    wingnut16

    wingnut16 New Member

    Nevada
    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2012
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    12
    I purchased a $25 or $30 two prong puller from NAPA and with my grinder made the necessary modifaction to pull the rear bearing. I was able to remove the input shaft without removing the bearing. Once I had the input shaft out of the transmission I used a press to remove the bearing. I can post a picture of my modified puller if you like, but it sounds like you have passed this point in the rebuild.

    Doug
     
  2. Aug 28, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    Feb 14, 2010
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    Thanks Doug. Yes, I'm past that point now. I have the high dollar puller on the way. It will have enough reach to pull the bearing on the input shaft as well.
     
  3. Aug 29, 2012
    cookieman

    cookieman Member

    Colton,Calif
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    Jan 31, 2005
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    I would like to see a picture. I could alway learn a better way of do a thing or two.
     
  4. Sep 3, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    Feb 14, 2010
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    1,001
    Took a couple hours this weekend to remove the shafts and gears from the case. I about have the case clean enough to paint. The expensive bearing puller is a life saver.

    [​IMG]

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  5. Sep 5, 2012
    wingnut16

    wingnut16 New Member

    Nevada
    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2012
    Messages:
    12
    The rebuild is looking great bcfarms... I just finished my T14 and Dana 20 rebuild on Monday, jeep is on the road again. Now the tools and garage needs a good cleaning! Cookieman, I will post a picture of the puller I modify some time this week.

    Doug
     
  6. Sep 5, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    Thanks and congratulations. I hope to have quite a few hours of jeep time this weekend...more than usual.
     
  7. Sep 8, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    Feb 14, 2010
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    1,001
    I tore down my transmission today and put it back together with the parts from the Novak kit. I also had found a new first gear on ebay for $25 and I installed it as well. The clutch teeth on the original were worn and could be part of my problem with jumping out of first. Hopefully that along with the new synchronizers and shift forks will make it like new. I have everything back in there, but I need to find me a pipe to hammer the bearings in the case. I may run to Lowes tomorrow and get a chain link fence post. That seems to be the right size.

    [​IMG]

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  8. Sep 9, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    Feb 14, 2010
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    The sleeve appears to be worn more on the reverse end. The dogs on the reverse gear are worn as well, but reverse wasn't giving me problems...yet. For piece of mind, I have ordered a new 1st/rev synchro assembly. I'd love to find a NOS reverse gear for cheap like I did first gear.
     
  9. Sep 9, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    I also noticed my kit from novak didn't come with the keys and synchronizer springs. I should at least get new ones for the 1st/rev assembly since I ordered that as a unit.

    Something else I noticed about the Novak kit is the thrust washers (I guess what you call them) for the countershaft are different. They don't have the tabs to lock them in place like the originals, but they sandwich the shaft in the case and make it tight. It is hard to turn by hand.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2012
  10. Sep 11, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    I've checked a few supply houses and the reverse gear is out of stock and backordered (Crown). R&P is trying to find a good used one.
     
  11. Sep 11, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    The countershaft seems to be very tight in the case and hard to turn by hand, which is due to the washer/spacers on the end. Is this normal when first installing it? The needle bearings are soaked heavily in Vaseline right now.
     
  12. Sep 16, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    R&P only had worn used reverse gears in stock similar to my current one, so I may have to reuse mine unless a forum member has a better one.

    [​IMG]

    Got my 1st/reverse hub assembly in the mail yesterday. They use some sticky stuff to hold it together and is hard to get loose.

    [​IMG]

    I cleaned up and swapped over my Dana 20 linkage and shifter to the rebuilt one I found.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2012
  13. Sep 16, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    They were tearing down 3 t15s and all reverse gears had bad dogs. That's all they have now.
     
  14. Sep 17, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    I modified my post for clarification. Thanks
     
  15. Sep 20, 2012
    BrettM0352

    BrettM0352 Member

    Fort Worth, TX
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    Oct 14, 2010
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    448
    Hey, I pulled that t15 apart, it doesn't look any better than yours.
     
  16. Sep 20, 2012
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    I kinda think those teeth don't look too bad. They are supposed to be pointed on the ends, so that the hub does not get hung up if the slots are not aligned with the teeth. I see some wear, in that the points of the teeth are not entirely symmetric. Depending on how it was treated (and driven), you'd expect a little rounding.

    Does it come out of reverse on its own? If it does not, I'd just go with it.
     
  17. Sep 20, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    It has not been popping out of reverse. The asymmetric points are what began me searching for a new gear. My gut has been telling me to just put it back in as well, so that is what I plan to do. Thanks Brett for looking.
     
  18. Sep 24, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    Cracked my input bearing retainer on assembly. It must have been hanging on the bearing snap ring because it didn't seem to want to seat against the case. Upon further investigation, the rtv wasn't 100% cleaned out of the retainer grove. Live and learn. I've contacted R&P. You west coast people ain't working yet.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2012
  19. Sep 24, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    Also, regarding the rear bearing adapter, are you suppose to "hammer" it in place, or will tightening the transfer case to the transmission pull everything up tight? It doesnt seem to want to set in the recess without popping back out. I don't want to strip or crack anything on the transfer case side.

    I'm wondering if the snap rings that came with the kit (already on the bearings) have an OD that is too big.
     
  20. Sep 24, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    Thanks. That confirms my theory about the snap rings, but only one other one came in the kit. The old ones look serviceable, so I'll reuse them. R & P has a input bearing retainer for about $50 shipped, so I'll place my order. Thanks
     
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