Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by OleBlue, Jun 7, 2012.
The retainer will ship out today. Super nice people on the phone at R&P.
I swapped the main bearing snap rings this evening with the old ones, and both the input bearing retainer seated against the case and the output adapter set in the recess like they supposed to. The ring ODs are definitely smaller on the old ones.
Since the snap rings that come with the new bearings shouldn't be used, that should disclosed in the instructions, or not include them at all. That helped me to buy another part...
Assumption can be a dangerous word, especially when there is only one other loose snap ring in the kit that would work and not two. Instructions say to use new snap rings. Snap rings on the main bearings don't even need removing before installing the bearings, so it could be assumed those are right for the job. These are just observations coming from a first-timer.
Well, got my new bearing retainer from R&P and installed. Everything is now back together. Now, I've got to get it from the floor and on the transmission jack. I may stop for awhile because today is the last day I can work on it for a week or so. After that, I think I'll get the tractor and boom to set it on the jack.
If only it would jump up in there!
Yes, I do have a factory service manual. Very good resource.
Super nice jeep and thanks for the write up. Planning on doing this soon and this thread will definitely be helpful!
Thanks for the compliments. I hope to get the jeep running and out of the shed by November. We'll see how my time plays out.
I wasn't as detailed in the write up as I should have been. This was my first time doing it, and I couldn't concentrate and take pictures (with greasy hands) at the same time. The process seemed pretty simple, so I hope I got everything right.
Before reassembling the transmission, I test-fit the input shaft through the clutch and into the newly installed pilot bushing to make sure I didn't mushroom the bushing upon installation. It fit well like the clutch alignment tool. Hopefully everything will slide in snug with the bell housing when I lift the transmission up to it.
What lube do I use on the bushing and splines before installing the transmission?
I ended up getting a small bottle of Lucas engine assembly lube for $5 at Autozone to lube the input shaft splines and tip that goes in the pilot bushing once I researched to find out what Lubriplate is.
It took me about 2 hours to getting it from the floor to bolting the transmission and crossmember into place. I had jack the jeep fairly high to roll the assembly on the transmission jack between the frame rails before setting the jeep back down. This also had to be done when I pulled it out because my transmission jack won't drop low enough for the top of the transmission and chain securing it to clear the frame rail.
To get everything to line up, it works to have a floor jack with a wood block under the engine to move it up and down to match up with the level and angle of the tranny jack. That along with the angle knobs on the tranny jack made things line up quicker than I expected.
It also helps to put the transmission in gear so that you can move the output yoke to get the input splines to match up with the clutch splines.
Love that stuff. I'd put it on my waffles if I could.
Well, I've got my new Holley bolted on and tuned, and Ole Blue is running! I do have an issue though. When I press in the clutch to put it in reverse to back it out of the shed, it just grinds. Could this be a linkage issue needing adjusting? Maybe not pushing the clutch in far enough?
Are you able to shift it easily into reverse? As in, can the lever slide fully into reverse? If not then its the linkage.
The lever will not slide fully into reverse, or any other gear. I will adjust the linkage tomorrow. I remember now I had to shorten it up to get the linkage in place from the bellcrank to the clutch fork.
I figure there is a break in period. With engine off and clutch pushed in, it shifts into 3rd fairly easy, 2nd a little harder, and not at all into 1st or reverse. 1st gear is new, and the 1st/reverse hub assembly is new. Before installing the shift top when the transmission was on the ground, it shifted into each gear, with shifting into 1st and reverse having the most resistance.
Can someone with a setup similar to mine please measure their lower clutch rod? Mine is currently 7.25" roughly tip to center of connecting bolt. This is adjusted out some from where it was, but I'm still not going into gear...just grinding because the input shaft won't quit spinning.
...and I don't have any clutch free play, but it would seem counterintuitive to shorter the linkage...
I'll get one to you after school if someone hasn't posted yet
On my neighbor's, the rod from peddle to bracket is 19 5/8", from bracket to clutch fork is 7 3/4"
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