TexasBlues Progress

rhino will stick to just about anything...

 

Just saw and read your entire build thus far and I must say you are doing a great job! Cant wait to see her grow!

 

wow! thanks!... always nice to hear when someone ELSE thinks youre doing OK

 

Nice job, you said to me doing a coil spring conversion is out of you're league, but looking at you're body job that is sometime that is out my league!!!

 

i hear ya JohneyBoy, but im WAY more comfortable doing sheet metal than doing something that my (or those of my loved ones) life depends on... i can always cut it out and do it over... picking up the pieces after a driveline/suspension failure would rip my heart out if someone (ANYone) got hurt

 

Yes i've this feeling too, but when you do thing the right way the first time no reason to have faillure, that's the main reason i'm trying to use Oem part for my suspension, i'm sure they are strong and build for what i want to do with them.

 

no doubt...

i just dont know where ANY of you guys get the ideas for the things you do... OR how to know what works where... bronco parts, scout parts, chevy MG all that...

maybe ONE day i ll know as much or at least THINK i do... maybe when im done with the 1st one... so i ll have a better database for my wifes 79

already know im going with wrangler springs, for a softer ride... no need for her to p*&s blood too

 

That the thing it's funny about....dodge, jeep, gm, ford all of them are using dana corporation axle so you can do a lot of interchange. I took suspension out of a bronco (dana 44 front) and just transplant it on a scout axle (same tube diameter dana 44). I reed a lot too on internet this help a little bit!!!

Keep up the work on you're project and don't forget picture that's oneof the big plaisure here to see other project whatever which project it is!!!

 

OK peoples... been a few weeks since i posted due to life getting in the way... family who lost it all coming here from AZ and trying to get them situated and stuff..

anyway... the weekend was EXCELLENT for progress... finally got the frame totally painted and ready for plumbing... YIKES and i now have almost 90% of the shotgun side floorboard replaced...

its taking a while on the floorpan due partly because of the small pieces of 16ga that i can get off the shelf at HD (6" x 16" i think) and because... well im just NOT a good welder and piecing all of these little puzzle pieces takes a LOOONG time...

think im gonna go get some SHEETS from the fine folks at steel materials in cartersville this week so i can do the DS in larger pieces.. and FINALLY... i have chosen a tub color... someone on here mentioned Normandy Blue and i like it a bunch... so thanks for the idea... i think itll look good with the sail blue on the frame and a gunmetal Dash panel









i ll post more once its further along and i KNOW ill be asking a brazilian questions about the plumbing... so... as always

thanks in advance!!

:easy rider:

have a great day!

 

Frame is looking good, it's cool to see another color than just black

 

can you move the roll of dimes out of they way, your welding is looking fine. Love the frame by the way looks good

 

thanks piffey...

maybe its because im putting in 16ga where it should PROBABLY be 18ga... not to mentioon its thin as all get out in some places...

lower voltage (A) = not as bad of blow thru, but poor penetration and higher (B) voltage = better penetration but lots of blow thru...

its not perfect by any stretch, but i figure with 2 good coats of POR, then some primer and them some RhinoLiner, it should be fine...

would it be MORE beneficial to have POR on BOTH sides of the tub? (topside and underside)

 

hahah 16 gauge makes it stronger, and the bigger the patch easier it is

personally, I would coat the underside and top side the same. If I remember correctly, on mig welds they supposedly have microscopic cracks and if you don't seal both sides it might rust. (probably the wrong explanation)
if you do both sides you will not worry about it.

i'm sure someone else will speak up whether or not to POR both sides or not.

 

I wouldn't think that POR is necessary before using a bed liner as long as the rust is neutralized and the cancer spots patched. It'll work but IMO it sounds like you'd be throwing more money than necessary at it. I would think that spot-priming as necessary and then lining would be just as effective.

 

hey all!

after MUCH vacillating about whether i was doing it right or whether or not it was going to be correct, i finally pulled the trigger on roughing in my fuel and brake lines!

WOO HOO!

the lines i have are pre-bent for a 76 (i originally had a 76 frame) and they may prove to be a little long, but i think i can make them work.

I used the 79 in the driveway to help figure out brake lines went where since there were not any on the current frame when i got it...

i THINK the fuel lines are going to be ok the way i ran them, as the 79 lines were run in the same manner... my only concern is that they might be in the way at the rear-most x-member when i try to put the tub back on... other than that, i think it will work out ok

the brake lines are a little long and im not sure how they are going to fit at the proportioning valve, but i have the old one so i can use it to mock it up

heres how it looks so far







and i have another question...

my frame, when standing on the step to get in, rotates OUTBOARD with my weight and i found the area where the rotation is occurring... its at the REAR shock area (see pic below)... my question is, how do i keep this from happening?

theres a slotted opening for a bolt, but theres NO blind nut and theres no way to get a nut inside without cutting the x-member... would i be safe in welding the frame to the x-member at the outer edges to eliminate the twisting of the frame? (see 2nd pic below) or would that cause too much rigidity and create problems off road?





thanks for the help peoples... as always VERY much appreciated

:easy rider: HAPPY FRIDAY!

 

haven't posted HERE in a while... so I thought I would resurrect this

I took an extended break while I was planning other things (a trip to Costa Rica), but that fell thru and now im starting back on the JEEP...

since I seem to have ADHD whenever I work on it, I thought I would do ONE thing from start to finish, and have a little fun with it, while paying homage to my time as an F-14 Fixer... heres my grab handle

 

I love what you did with this bar!!!

 

Like it. Seems like it needs 'not a step' somewhere near it too...

 

funny you should say that... I'm going to stencil 'NO STEP' on the dash above it... or maybe ON the bar itself... I just wanted to see it so I did it on a whim...

I think i'll keep it fb

 

prototype gauge pod... to angle the important ones twd the driver...

cut a hole in the dash and come thru the back of a blank dash panel for a seamless finish... thoughts? ideas?

after-market availability of the same so I DON'T have to make them??



other side of steering wheel



angle of the pod