unstable driving... all over the place! scarry

Yeah, this is a drastic suggestion. You only need a few degrees of rotation to restore the factory caster setting. Steel shims work fine.

 

At what point are shims actually needed? 1" lift...2" lift...application specific? How does one know what degree shims are needed?

 

The only way to know is to measure. Measuring caster is beyond most back-yard mechanics. You might be able to do it with an angle finder, but IMO the right thing to do is to have the suspension angles measured at an alignment shop. They'll set your toe-in, but will probably tell you they cannot adjust the caster and camber. Then add caster shims accordingly.

 

This sounds like the most feasible reason... The caster thing should not influence the feel of steering, although I did have the rear axial taken off and the knuckles removed and reset to the new angle. Nothing to the front as I have the hubs unlocked and in 2H... therefor no spin ion the front drive-shaft. ... Feels like the jeep is mounted on a waterbed. ,,,, like if i turn it a little right it will turn a half-second later and then to much then compensate and so forth and so on... Also just driving down the road it feels way flooty...we are talking 30-40mph

 

If I understand correctly the main complaint is slow or no responce to the steering wheel. You describe turning the wheel and then when the vehicle finally responds it is oversteered. I am guessing this is possiblly caused by small amoutts of slack or wear in more than one location. In my case I had some wandering while driving on pavement at 30-40 MPH. I had slack in the steering box, the bell coupler and the lower steering colum bushing, There is also a possible source for slop or play in the u-joint on the steering shaft. As mentioned above have someone gentlly rock the steering weel and check these locations, then go on to ball joints tie rod ends and wheel bearings. I suspect you will need to adjust or replace parts in more than one location.

 

I am going to pull the wheels this weekend and work on the slack in the wheel bearing first, I will post after the results... thx, p

 

bad axle joints will give this symptom too.....

 

I don't get that one ......... you can set your own toe-in,,, run a tape on the inside of the tires----measure from the side wall to side wall ----front to back and adjust drag link to toe tires in about 1/4"done it this way for years and tires wear really nice,,,,,sounds like more than one thing loose, has it death wobbled on you???? must be right on the edge.... that , will get your attention.!!

 

Ive had axle joints get seized/stiff (not on the jeep full size Chevy)and when turning they bind and release makes the vehicle swerve bad......and no no death wobble here just trying to help those who do.....

 

I just got another allignment after adding 4 degree shims and look at the results:

Caster
Left Right
before shims..... 1.3* 0.9*
after 4* shims... 4.1* 3.7*

What gives? Are the shims inaccurate?

With a 4.5 lift and 35 inch tires is 5 to 6 degrees what I want? My jeep definately rides alot better but after a turn the wheel does not come back to center... Will a couple more degrees of caster help correct this?

 

could be the steering box it to tight also............

 

4.1 - 1.3 = 2.8 degrees difference
3.7 - 0.9 = 2.8 degrees difference

Yes, I'd guess the shims are inaccurate. Where did you get them? Did you measure them before you installed them?

 

Not sure where they came from.... I'll check to see if they are stamped. Timgr do you think I should increase my caster to 5 - 6 degrees?

 

Hmm. I don't know. Maybe someone here who has increased their caster to 5-6 degrees can comment. I don't think it would hurt anything.

Do you have one of the shims? Measure the length and the thickness at each end, and post it.

 

I was having controllability issues (especially when accelerating or decelerating) and found out that my rear axle "U" bolts were loose allowing the rear axle to walk a few inches each way whan driving. I replaced the "U" bolts and virtually eliminated the problem.

 

all new U bolts and very tight.... thanks though

 

Put a buddy in the drivers seat. Pop hood. Stand in front of Jeep. Have buddy turn the steering wheel left and right.

Look for:

-Amount of steering shaft rotation before steering box begins to react. (I cleaned up this slop with the Flaming River replacement steering shaft on my 75...)

-Once steering box is moving, how much does it twist the frame? (My next project. When the steering wheel is turned, my steering BOX immediately begins to move the tires. HOWEVER, it also twists the front of my frame. My frame acts like a cross between a wet noodle and a steering dampener! I am going to brace the box...)

 

ok, I'm back had here is what I have and what I have done....o, and please remember, this is a 72, thus no a-arm and ball-joints.
1. standard alignment
2. steering stabilizer
3. frame to axial stabilizer
4. checked all bolts for tight
5. new bushings in the leaf springs...
6. a new rancho 2" lift kit w/new springs and shocks,

still way unstable if over 35mph.....

please explain this... "Death wobble"

I am afraid to go on the hwy...

Steering box still moves a little but all bolts are tight.... Can you buy a new box? this is a power steering unit.

thx, Paul