Which Leaf To Remove?

Universal Saginaw Pitman Arm - Flat & Adjustable - Full Spline - IH Parts America

Get this, and a reamer (or drill a 3/4” hole and use a goferit insert) and come in from the top.

 

Is the splined/box side of the pitman arm tapered? Wondering if I will be able to install the goferit insert and then flip the whole pitman arm to experiment with mounting the drag link on the top vs bottom.

 

Yes, it’s splined/tapered.

The insert fits into a 3/4” hole, then is lightly welded in place. The tension of the nut on the tie rod end also holds it in place, so you could conceivably wait to weld it until later, but you run the risk of it developing play if the insert isn’t a perfect fit. If it’s just for a test run or two, I’d goferit.

 

I also recommend the Walcks spring set if you ever buy new. Made a world of difference in ride comfort VS the Superlift springs mine came with. Like a whole different vehicle.

 

Lots of stuff here...back in the day (1972) there wasn't anywhere near the stuff available today!!! The only springs I could find were J.C.Whitney stock or H.D. so of course I went with H.D....12 leaf rear and 10 leaf front, I could have had a better ride by welding the axles to the frame! I removed 5 in the rear and 3 in the front, made a world of difference. Then added dual shocks all around worked well for years. Now you can buy anything you want.

I had a steering arm that used a tie rod end on the arm...it wore out so I cut it off and welded on a tapered end (and added 1/2") I then heated a 1/2" steel rod all around the unit and welded it all around solid. I "heat treated it" just heated it red a few times and let it cool. I beat on that off road and racing it lasted for years and I mean years!!! Maybe 20 something?

If you have torches and a welder you can do most anything...but you also have to understand how steel works!

Dale

 

I ended up replacing the pitman and drag link. The pitman i believe is from a full size Chevy van, which was way too long and had the ball joint connected to the arm rather than a hole thru the arm. But on the plus side, it was only $15 and had just the right bend to it so I could mount the drag link thru the top. So I cut the ball joint off, drilled a hole and installed a goferit tapered insert. New drag link is from omix. Part #18054.01. I did have to shorten the threaded sections a bit, but still plenty of threads in the adjusting sleeve and way better than the old thin welded one that was on there before.

this new steering setup gives me way more clearance at the leaf spring and feels more solid when driving as well.

 

Throw a 4 degree caster wedge in each side and you will be amazed at how much better it drives.

 

Yes, caster makes all of the difference.

 

X3 on that. Adding wedges transformed my Jeep.

 

Id like to know and learn more about these "wedges". Info please.

 

They are angled shims between the axle and springs like this: Machined Steel Shims for 2" Wide Leaf Springs (4 Degrees)

They tip the axle back and give it more caster so it tracks down the highway better. Think of how shopping cart wheels point forward because their contact patch is behind the pivot axis of the casters. When you tip the axle back, you are moving the contact patch of the tire further behind the pivot axis of the steering. This creates a larger self torque force to keep the Jeep pointed straight ahead. Note: it does come at the detriment of front driveline U-joint angle, but it hasn't been an issue on my Jeep with 6 degree shims.

Forum member McGruff makes them and has sold many to other members. When I did the '69, he didn't have time and I bought the 2" wide Warrior products ones linked above and used a grinder to make them work with the 1.75" springs.

Here's the relevant post from my build thread: Old Red Maintenance Thread. it really transformed the Jeep.

 

Looks like you got it sorted out but I thought I'd share as well.
I was unhappy with the ride but didn't want to risk floppy suspension, so I took a progressive approach. At first I cut 2" off each end of the bottom two leaves. This helped, but not enough, so out came the cutoff tool, removed the lower leaf entirely and another 2" off each of the second spring up. Rides pretty well, at least compared to where I started.