T15 rebuild

you can order any size bolt you need from mcmaster carr or MSC and get them over nighted if you're in a hurry. Also if you have a local grainger they have some but not as big of selection. Also fastenal of course has them all and they have some local stores, maybe in your area?

 

Yes, there is a fastenal nearby. Thanks for the info. My bolts are in good shape to reuse, but I just needed to know the size and threads to order the right helicoil kit to redo the holes in the bellhousing.

 

Finally got back to my jeep. Pulled off the bell and cleaned it up and then removed the clutch. Flywheel looks really good. Can I wipe it off with break cleaner?

I want to take the upper inspection plate (I guess thats what you call it) and clean it off. The dowels holding it to the block won't let it come off easy. Any suggestions?

 

I wasn't able to totally get the cover out from behind the flywheel because I was scared of bending, but I pushed it out enough to clean it.
I drilled, tapped and installed helicoils in the tranny mounting holes in the bell housing today.

 

Now I'm ready to install my new clutch and pressure plate. I got myself a clutch alignment tool. Which way does this side of the clutch face?

 

Found a diagram at Novak. That side should face the pressure plate

 

When I removed my clutch fork, I only saw one spring, which I believe was the inner spring. It was attached to the bracket that also mounts the pivot ball. The diagrams show 2 springs, but I can't figure out where the other attaches to the bellhousing.

 

There's a spring that holds the release rod into the clutch fork pocket. It goes through a hole at the end of the clutch fork arm, and a hole in the pivot bracket mounted on the bell. There's also a little spring inside the bell that keeps the fork on the ball pivot. The ball pivot has a little bracket under it with a hole for one end of the spring, and the other end goes through a hole in the fork.

 

A little update. I worked on my clutch this week as time and cooler temperatures permitted. I installed my new 11" clutch disc, pressure plate, fork, springs, pivot ball, pilot bushing, and throwout bearing. Now I have more space on my table to actually begin my transmission teardown. My first issue with this is breaking the nut loose to get the output gear off. Even though the nut and threads were in a oily environment inside the transfer case and I sprayed it with penetrating oil weeks ago, that booger is on there. The threads on the shaft are rusty, and holding the transmission while trying to break the nut loose is cumbersome. Any insight on how to do what seems like a simple task would be helpful. I have shifted into 2 gears simultaneously so the shaft won't turn.

 

Air tools and a large compressor is something I want to get someday. I deal in poor man tools and cheater bars when needed. I bought a 1-1/4" 6 point socket and used my pull bar and cheater pipe and it wouldn't budge. I bolted the transmission to my table and it cracked the wood when wrenching. I may see if I can get a friend of mine with an impact wrench. The one we got around here is a 3/8 and it struggles with smaller rusty nuts and bolts.

 

Local mechanic? Maybe a muffler shop? They might break it loose for you. Offer a few dollars for their time.

 

Yes the friend I referred to runs a muffler shop, so I'll drop in one day this week.

 

Thanks fellas. I just searched for 110v 1/2" impact wrenches, and I can get one for around $50 through amazon if I have to go that route. I'll keep that in mind.

 

My buddy at the exhaust shop helped get the nut off with an impact wrench. I'm going to get another nut before reassembly because the corners are boogered a little. Now I can commence to tranny learning. I also plan to replace my water pump while the radiator is still drained after resealing the water outlet, so I may do this before working on the tranny.

 

Ok, now I'm back to my transmission. Since I finally got the nut off, I'm ready for my tear down. My next question is the bearing puller a must? I don't have one, but I'm trying to figure out what it would grab onto. See picture:

 

Ah, never mind. Got to pry the adapter off.

 

Went to oreillys, advanced, and autozone and none of them had a puller that would work in the bearing's split ring groove. I'll have to order one.

 

Ordered a Posilock TJ-1 transmission bearing puller. Another $200....

 

Good suggestion.

As I wait on my puller, I compared bearings. The ones in my Novak kit are from overseas. I notice they have rivets holding the ball "carriers":



How will I tell if I need to replace them? Transmission has 33,000 on it and it's original to the jeep.