Why must I activate the fuel pump after 3 days to start well?

My Jeep works PER-FECT-LY. Happiness.

Except one small problem

if I don't use it during 3 days for ex, I have to use the hand pump for fuel to fill the carb.

If not, I need to wait with the starter until the fuel comes and it is long.

If I pump fuel, it starts pleasantly after 2 or 3 turns of the starter engine.

Why this? Is there a solution to keep fuel in the carb?

At the beginning I feel the fuel pump work, I hear the fuel coming in the carb, then the fuel pump becomes hard to move, it is OK.

I cannot resist to put (again) a photo of my beauty which is very pleasant to drive now.; She likes very much to be greased.

 

It seems you have a military type fuel pump with the priming lever. http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gallery/albums/album115/A1_lever_fuel_pump.sized.jpg

"Why this? Is there a solution to keep fuel in the carb?"
I wonder if the two check valves in the pump may be slightly leaky or dirty - allowing fuel in the line to drain back towards the fuel tank? Or possibly through a leak in the pump diaphragm?

I am only guessing.

 

Fuel in the line should not matter as long as the float bowl does not dry out. Don't know if this is a typical problem for the YF or Solex, whichever you have. Some carburetors are terrible about the float bowl drying out - "dry bowl syndrome" - ie Motorcraft 21XXs.

 

Not typical for the Carter YF.

Even if the bowl is near full, I would still wonder if a YF choke or Solex enrichener circuit can function well until there is an incoming supply of fuel.

 

Before you try to start it, remove the air cleaner and look down the carb throat. Operate the throttle by hand, and see if there's a stream of fuel squirting in the bore. This will tell you if the carb is dry or not.

 

yes, Solex.
If there is fuel in the carb, when I press the starter it should start and pump the fuel.
So I'll check what happens in the solex. The fuel should stay inside.
Anyway it starts after 10 turns of engine, but when I use the hand pump (yes it is from Willys military) it starts immediately.

 

Not just the Solex carbs. My carter does the same thing. I don't have the priming lever, which would improve things greatly.

Be glad that you do have that option on yours.

 

Test on the 3rd day : no problem, it is after 5/6 days that it is better to use the hand pump.
My friend specialist works in a WWII Willys shop, very busy with all ceremonies.

So When he can he replaces old parts and uses Willys parts, made for military use. What I understand, is that it is more secure and strong.

 

quadrajet carbs are famous for float bowl leak, during manufaturing port galley are drilled from underneath then solder up, after year the soldering dry allowing gas to out weep. the solution was jb weld the plugs

 

Today, rain and rain and rain. The Jeep stays in the barn. It is August, full summer, and I burn my wood for heating the house, and drying!
Climate change? The crops are in bad situations, tomatoes are dying... it is a mess.

 

Sounds like the carb is loosing fuel.. My solex starts fine, even after sitting 30 days..but I have an electric
fuel pump. Turn the key on, wait 5 seconds and instant start.
By the way, its 98 degrees at 3 pm here, with 95% humidity..

 

I had a similar problem with my 70 CJ5 w/ the Dauntless V6 with only 23,000 original miles. (Backyard under tarp find) I had to pump the gas pedal like a mad man to start it. Once started it ran fine, but let it sit for a couple days & had to do it again. I then decided to replace the fuel sender in order to fix the non working fuel gauge & discovered that the small rubber fuel lines at the tank were rotten & were cracked enough that air was getting in. So I replaced them with the new sender & the problem was cured.
Hope this helps.

 

yes it can help, and nice Renegade; but I am fed up with repairing! One day I'll find the strength to repair again, I know it.
But this is really a nice Renegade, according to the small view.

 

Thank you, that picture is from the day it came out from under a tarp in a guys back yard. I have made some stock improvements since that day.

I have heard more times than not that repairing your old Jeep never ends & it's always a labor of love!

 

That's so true! but I would like some reciprocity, cold my old Jeep repair her old master!

 

The Solex on my F134 has a similar issue. As a test, I started the engine cold and let it run only about 15 seconds to fill the carb bowl, then shut it off. It was in a cool garage. I did this so engine heat wouldn't be a factor in evaporation. Every few hours, I would remove the carb top and check the fuel level. The bowl was empty after about 14 hours. It seems unlikely that much fuel would evaporate that quickly. After that test, I suspected the pump diaphragm. I then rebuilt the carb but the issue remains.
A quick internet search found several guys were going to install a check valve, but no reply whether it helped.
If this fuel is draining into the engine, wouldn't that find its way into the crankcase and contaminate the oil?

 

"If this fuel is draining into the engine, wouldn't that find its way into the crankcase and contaminate the oil?" I hope not, it is a small quantity, will evaporate.

The weather temperature can be important. I am busy domes days so I cannot go check and repair or try to repair. This will be after Sept 6th.

 

Be thankful you have a fuel pump / primer, and leave it be, "se la vie" as my sister-in-law would say.

 

"If this fuel is draining into the engine, wouldn't that find its way into the crankcase and contaminate the oil?"

Worse than that - a sufficient quantity in one cylinder can bend a rod when the engine is turned over, the liquid being incompressible.

A fuel pump diaphragm leak could put gasoline into the crankcase oil.