'66 Cj5 Tux Resto-mod

Well I’m ready to drop the transmission and replace the fork this coming weekend when the new SKF throwout bearing and my new transmission jack that I really didn’t want to buy (but turns out I need) comes from Jeff Bezos tool rental (disclaimer: I’ll probably keep it).

Thanks to Tim in South Lake for the donor clutch fork. Glad I saved the wooden cap I made for the transmission tower!

 

I stared at this this morning for a bit while the truck warmed up, what do you guys think is the best approach for this clutch fork replacement operation? Take the transmission off the bell housing and leave it on the block or take the bell housing off the block and leave it on the transmission?

 

Since you're just doing the fork/bearing, I think it might be easier to just pull the transmission and leave the bellhousing in place.

 

I should drain the gear oil out of the transmission too right?

 

You shouldn't need to.

 

I don't know, that new bearing and fork will be hanging there off the ball stud while you're trying to move the trans back in. It would take a gentle touch to not get something crossed up. I guess shops do it all the time, so maybe.

 

Good points.

 

Ok I’ll stare at it some more. Looking above @Twin2 says to keep the BH on the transmission. @Norcal69 what do you suggest?

I assume also that I should attach the fork to the bearing before the assembly of the two goes over the input shaft, then slide onto pivot ball? I honestly think my mechanic buddy did all of this a year ago when we mated the trans/transfer to the engine, and I was manning the hoist and didn’t take step by step photos so I don’t remember.

 

I tried several times doing it detached from the BH.... Needless to say I probably hit at least 500+ swear words in the process and this was with the tub off. I then mated the BH to the tranny and was done in one shot. YMMV

 

I install bell housing first.
Then grease and install clutch fork. I always put some grease inside the release bearing collar.
I have two 8" long 1/2" bolts with the heads cut off. I install those into the bell housing for easy alignment.
With the transmission on the jack, I start the alignment bolts through the transmission. Once the transmission is slid up to the release bearing I slide it over the input shaft. It usually takes a little wiggle to get the release bearing onto the bearing retainer snout. From there the transmission slides right in with a little output shaft rotation to align the clutch splines.
That is how I do it. YMMV

 

Just heard back from Novak about their clutch fork in case anybody else goes down this road – their part number RAV6 is actually a Crown part so it would be the same part I got from Kaiser Willys and might give anyone else the same issue of popping off the pivot pin.

Looks like you definitely want to source an OEM clutch fork wherever possible.

 

Found some old pics from 14 years ago when she was my daily Driver:

 

Siick!!!!

and while I hate red, your rig looks sweet as she sits now

get that SOB on the road

 

Under all that matte rattle can black it was Gold - which I loathe. Always wanted to have a red car…not a fast one, just a red one.

Wish me luck on the clutch fork surgery tomorrow and I might be driving it to work Tuesday…

 

Cakewalk, you got it. You will be driving it to work Tuesday!

 

get it on the road. I’m planning on driving down to the rubicon event next month just to wave everyone off. You should come

 

I don’t know if the word cakewalk describes what this morning has been like…. We can’t quite seem to get the right angle to slide the transmission back… Two hours and no luck

 

Looking at this new SKF replacement throwout bearing that came and it has quite a bit of lateral wiggle - about a 10th of an inch is that normal?

 

Sorry Grant, I was trying to give it the “Jedi mind trick”!

 

We got it. Just needed to use a different transmission jack. And of course now the pilot bushing needs to come out too…so off comes the pressure plate and clutch. I think there was too much grease behind it (edit - no).