Later Cj5 Axles?

From the center of the rear output, to the outermost part of the case, an NP205 is 14”.

A Dana 20 (input of an 18) is around 12 1/2”.

It’s entirely possible, and it’s been done many times before. Worst case, you have to move the drivetrain to the left 1/2” for clearance. Another good reason to have the entire drivetrain in one piece when building, to place everything where it needs to be.

 

is the amc 20 really that awful?

 

I've seen one stand up to a lot of abuse behind a warmed up 360, even with the original 2 piece axles hafts.
They have a decent record in the full size jeeps. The center section/ring/pinion is still used in the Humvee.

But it has a reputation for bending the thin axle tubes, and stripping the axle shafts in the CJ configuration. If you wanted to run it, a truss and the one piece axle conversion would be recommended. That makes them nearly as good as a d44.

OMIX 16530.22 One Piece Axle Conversion Kit (AMC 20 Quadratrac) for 76-86 Jeep CJ-7

 

Well, it was a step down from the Dana 44 with flanged one-piece axle shafts.

You cannot compare the CJ axle to the Wagoneer axle. For those Jeeps the factory welded the hubs to the shafts (before heat treatment?), and likely to go along with the higher GVWR, used heavier steel in the tubes. Possible they had the advantage of a few years experience in the CJ, since the CJ got the Corporate axle in 1976 and the Wagoneer/J10 got them in 1980.

Supposedly they are better if you keep the axle nuts tight. The spec for those is 250 ft-lbs minimum. I guess you should use your breaker bar and cheater pipe and get them as tight as you can. No personal experience with these, but the CJs' rear hub has a short tapered section with serrations that is meant to lock the hub to the shaft. Likely it works fine in AMC passenger cars, but there is more impact load in a Jeep. I wonder what axle the 401 Javelin and AMX came with.

 

i guess i'll just look for some cheap 72-75 cj axles, think there were some in new york someplace?
Jeep axles

 

'72-75. They come with good brakes and all have decent axle ratios too. 3.73 standard, 4.27 optional.

Those would be good, but why are the brakes stripped off? The backing plates are important, and you need the emergency brake parts if you want the parking brake to work. I believe you can buy everything else for the brakes new.

 

yep, got that. i might be hanging around near there, so this thread is pretty much resolved now. thanks everyone.

 

If you want those give a really low ball offer. With out knowing the gearings and keeping in mind that they probably need new seals, brake parts, a rear truss, lockers and you'll probably want gearing. Remember those aren't desired axles and I would say they are probably worth a little more than a case of beer.

I got a free dana 44 from an 73 cj5 and I am into it for about 450 now between brakes and installing a limited slip. Remember that good deals aren't always as good as you want them to be.

Other than v8 sm465 ? how are you building the Jeep. Stretched? Sprung over on 40s, Retro classic cruiser? Thats a good place to figure out what you need. If it's an icecream getter just put a v8 in front of the t90 if its a something to wheel and you are already spending money on adapters and everything to run the motor to the trans to the t case I'd beef up the axles while you are putting it together.

 

i'm actually reconsidering most of it all, putting in sbc, chevy 3-speed, and dana 20. no adapters needed, just axles and possibly driveshafts. i would never pay $400 for a set of 50 y/o axles, gonna go low.

 

You mean a Jeep 3-speed? You'll need an adapter to the SBC. If you use some other 3-speed, you'll need an adapter to the Dana 20. Assuming such an adapter is currently made.

Sorry if this is obvious, but you might be better off to look for a Jeep that someone has already converted. Or a '72 or newer that already has a highway-ready drive train. If you keep your eyes open and have a little patience, unfinished projects can go for much lower prices than the cost of all the pieces.

Reminds me of how a friend of mine at the Jeep dealership wanted to sell his MB to me. "Tim, it's all there - all you have to do is put it together. $400." Of course, this was in 1972, but such things happen today too.

 

AAAGGGHHHH THEY'RE TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!! IN A CHEVY TRUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
sorry for shouting, but i won't need adapters. it's a 3-speed that's on the back of a chevy engine, with the dana 20 on the back. not a jeep transmission, not a jeep transfer case; both are stock from the chevy.

 

Passenger drop? Short adapter? The pickup truck adapters I have seen are long, like 10-12". Recall what I wrote that there is lots of history of trying stuff, and something like this that worked has probably been thought of and tried ... and possibly discarded if it did not work. You are not the first to explore this ground.

 

Way too long, I have that setup out of a Blazer.

 

A Dana 300 is a good choice. Better low range, adapters are available for all popular transmissions.

 

So, 69-73 Blazer drivetrain? Some sort of undesirable 3 speed and not the SM465? So, you say you might need adapters? Well you might need to either buy or make them...ADAPTERS!!!!!!!!!!!! HAHAHAHA!

Anyway, straight 6 that it could have come with won't fit right, the 307 is a turd and the 350 might be ok. If you have it all, put it in and drive it with an AMC20 until it blows up or lasts forever. This is a way better idea than a detroit diesel deafener.

ADAPTERS!! ADAPTERS ADAPTERS!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Can I ask a couple of questions?
Why the components you listed in your first post? Is it a "wish list" or is there an application behind it?
I've found that if one modifies the rig by identifying what you expect to use it for, the list will build itself without waste, excess and over/under building.
Hunting rigs will have a different build than a sand rig, different than a mud bogger, etc.... If you can tell us your vision, we may be able to recommend a solid axle/drivetrain that will fit the bill.

Side note....
"I've got a free one sitting on the ground" is the absolute worst reason to "upgrade".

 

Sage advice right there.

 

As an experienced waster of money, I will second the above advice.

Figure out the intended use.

Figure the best, cheapest and easiest to find components to get that will accomplish the design goals.

Go through the components and repair as needed.

Install all components.

When assessing the needs, don't get caught up in trendy (8.8 is the hot buzzword currently), over large components (contrary to popular magazines, most people don't need Dana 60s or 400hp) or idiot bro ideas (low profile rims or tires that stick way out).

And, be sure to make fun of any truck you see with the Carolina squat. I may have gotten sidetracked here. Carry on!

Biggest rule, build what you want, it's your vision! Also, keep a sense of humor, as people are here to give advice and kid around too!

 

i don't care about whats trendy, definitely don't need 60's or 400hp, and hate low profile rims.

i most definitely will. why is that even a thing?

 

New Chevy by me Looks like a Dirt Tracker, with those Wide Wheels and low profile Tires.