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AMC 304 broken dipstick tube?

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by mulehog, Feb 7, 2008.

  1. mulehog

    mulehog Mulehog

    Hello everyone. First time posting on here, but I have been using your site for the past few months to help me along with my 1974 CJ5 Jeep rebuild so thanks for all the useful info! I tried to post this question last night but it doesn’t appear to have showen up so I apologize if this gets double posted. I was going over some things last night before I put my tub back on and realized that my Oil Dipstick tube was loose, well when I tried to pull out the dip stick the tube came with it. It looks like it may have broke off right at the block. I have found some posts on here about having to drop the oil pan or tapping the old tube to get it out. But before I go that far I just want to make sure that it is in need of replacing. Here are a few pictures I took last night. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    http://www.mulehog.com/jeep/dipstick1.jpg

    http://www.mulehog.com/jeep/dipstick2.jpg
     
  2. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Last edited: Feb 7, 2008
  3. High5

    High5 Member

    bulltear.com has them for sale.

    High5
     
  4. mulehog

    mulehog Mulehog

    Thanks! That's what I was afraid of. When you slide the new one in are you suppose to put any type of sealer around it to prevent any leaks? I have some left over gasket sealant from the new valve covers I put on (probably when I broke this darn thing and didn't notice) and didn't know if that would work or if I should even do that.
     
  5. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    I wouldn't, and I'm sure the factory didn't. If you did, it'd make removal again later very difficult.
     
  6. LostDawg

    LostDawg Slowly rusting in the NW

    They are a press fit into the block. The link(s) Tim pointed you to are good information. Mine was a real PITA, and never quite fit right, but YMMV (it didn't want to 'seat' correctly).
    If you want 'bling', and don't mind spending some extra $$$, there are ones that are a braided flexible housing and seat with double 'O' rings. Can't remember the manufacturer...
    And "Welcome!" from the beautiful Pacific Northwest.
     
  7. mulehog

    mulehog Mulehog

    Thanks again guys! You've all been a big help to me. It's good to know what I need to do and what not to do to fix this.

    I'm always up for some extra bling I'll have to check that out.
     
  8. caveman

    caveman New Member

    You can get them from your local Jeep dealer, I bought one for my 72 304. The one I bought from 4WD wouldn't fit and I mangled it. The one from Jeep fit correctly and was cheaper.
     
  9. 1970CJ6

    1970CJ6 new mexico air

    There is a little bracket that holds it to the valve cover bolt, when you took off the valve covers it sliped down on the dipstick tube.
    I might have one if you need it
    Andrew
     
  10. rixcj

    rixcj Member

    When I recently replaced mine, I tried installing it in by placing an open end wrench over the stop rib on the new aftermarket tube. The tube started to split, right in the center of the rib (it's thin there). I was able to tig weld the split back together.
    I made a sleeve (5/16" I.D. tube x 1" long) to go over the dipstick tube, and butt up to the rib. I welded it there.
    Then I made an installation tool to fit the whole modified setup. It was a little extra work, but it worked like a charm. Dipstick tube went right in, nice and snug. I also put a dab of non-hardening sealant around the tube where it seals to the block, before tapping it in.(Sorry for the dark pic...).
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2008
  11. NorCoJeeper

    NorCoJeeper Member

    X2 on using sealant. A little Permatex #2 should seal it for life and won't affect disassembly at all. It may provide a little lube to get the new tube in as well.
     
  12. mulehog

    mulehog Mulehog

    Thanks again for all the useful info. I drove around to about 5 places last night looking for a M7X1 tap and no one had it. I finally found a place this morning that has one in stock. I'm going to try this method and use a slide hammer to pop it out. I'll let you know how it goes. I also have a new tube on the way so hopefully it will fit. The Jeep dealerships here said they don't have one that would work.
     
  13. wicked4x4

    wicked4x4 HEY, watch the paint!

    i too bought one from 4wd, and i kind of had issues as well. i had to mangle it a bit to get it to fit in around my headers. i didn't know if that was just operator error or if the correct way to install it would have been to remove the headers, then put it on, then reinstall the headers (well, just one of the two headers...).

    i also put just a dab of rtv on the tube just before it seats to prevent any minor leaks from occuring. seems to be working fine. i am going to pull my drivetrain and body all from the frame soon. i will probably pick up a new one from jeep to put in (keep a nice straight one) at this point, as i will be replacing all my seals and gaskets at this time as well.

    good luck to you.:beer:
     
  14. wicked4x4

    wicked4x4 HEY, watch the paint!

    not sure if this trick will work for you, but...
    i once had a hell of a time getting a pilot bushing out of my truck (doing a cluthc job) and someone helped me out by showing me this and it got it right out. put a small thin bolt or screw backwards into the hole so the head of it went through and caught on the back of the bushing to pull on it. then got just the right size bolt to fit snug between the wall of the bushing and the bolt i put in there-then threaded it into the bolt and side of bushing. once it was in there a little ways, i was able pry out the bushing by the bolt i had screwed in-which pulled on the bolt that was in backwards forcing the bushing out:)

    like i said, not sure if it will work for your case, but let me know if you need more explanation for what i am talking about. i guess worst case for you would be dropping the pan off and pushing it out from the bottom-bummer.

    good luck:beer:
     
  15. LostDawg

    LostDawg Slowly rusting in the NW

    FWIW, I fought mine trying to get it out from the top for a good hour. Finally decided to just break down and drop the pan. 10 minutes to drop pan, 30 seconds to tap out old tube, gave me a chance to inspect pan for 'suspicious material', another 10 minutes to re-install pan, and it gave it a fresh oil change which was probably due.
    (Note: did not include time spent fighting the new tube that didn't want to seat:mad:)
    Also, I found it was easier to remove my header from that side to allow for the placement of the new tube. YMMV, etc...
    Good Luck.
     
  16. mulehog

    mulehog Mulehog

    Hi everyone. Sorry it's been a while. My Grand Father passed away a couple weeks ago and I just haven't gotten back on track until today. Anyway I got it out without having to drop the oil pan. I threaded the tube at the block using a M7X1 tap. I tried to pull it out with just pure muscle power but that wouldn't due. So I created a make shift sliding hammer by welding on a threaded bar onto my vice grips. I then threaded a nut down quit a ways put on a washer then a 5 lb standard weight followed by another washer and a nut. I clamped down the vice grips onto the tap and three good pulls with that 5 lb weight and she popped right out!! I was so pumped. :D Anyway to put it back in I used some permatex #2 around the new tube and worked it into place and it looks like it has all sealed up for me. The true test will come when I fire the beast back up pretty soon. Thanks again for everyone's information. I couldn't gotten this fixed without all of your input!

    Here are a few pics:

    http://www.mulehog.com/jeep/TapInDipStickTube.jpg

    http://www.mulehog.com/jeep/MakeShiftSlideHammer.jpg

    http://www.mulehog.com/jeep/NewTubeInstalled.jpg