Gloss Or Semi Gloss?

Spray bomb is just a spray can.

 

Bumping this thread up to ask about chassis paint as I am prepping my chassis and about ready to stockpile paint to put back on it. Wondering what you guys think about Eastwood Extreme Chassis vs. POR-15? And also whether gloss or satin would be more OEM? It's very hard to tell what the PO(s) have added over the years.

 

Original frames that I've seen were much flatter than satin. Paint on undercarriage parts was pretty c****y as I recall; not much of a match in gloss between different pieces. Black epoxy primer would work well, though it would look too good to match a factory job, I'd think.

The body man at the Jeep dealership where I worked would mix gasoline with black paint for chassis paint. Not recommended, but a true story. It gave that tarry appearance he wanted, that matched the factory paint and was resistant to rock chips and such.

 

According to this guy, it keeps the paint from hardening completely. Thus no rock chipping, I presume. No personal experience other than receiving this 'advice.'

 

I don't know about durability but it bonds well for some reason. I've heard about a guy that used gasoline to stretch enamel and also mobile home roof coating when he was running short.

 

Didn't see this addressed but the transmission and transfer cases, I've been told, were painted black (probably gloss or semi gloss).

Pedal arms were probably black; at least they've been painted so on restorations that strove for accuracy.

I have found no trace of paint on my skid plate but I imagine it was painted black to match the frame.

 

old enamel weathers to flat without wax .por paint is good but any void in the finish allows water in and the paint film wont let it back out. I paint frames with the cheapest 2k black paint I can get and fluid film for rust prevention.

 

On the Renegade II Reference photo threas I posted are many photos of ('71, but 65 same?). Some of the details you're seeking can be seen there. I notice the chassis black is thinned and poorly adhered. The engine skid is engine color. Almost everything else has the thin(ned?) black paint. I plan to look to try to determine what components were attached when sprayed.

 

i believe the color name was Raven black or something similar.. gloss black for certain.

 

Ive had mixed results with POR15. I'll use epoxy if I do another frame or axle housing.

One thing I detest about it is the thin glassy slick cured surface. Not a good base for next coat. Supposed to recoat before cured but I have a job and like to sleep for a while each night. Ive also had it peel off like a celophane wrapper from clean smooth metal even though I etched it. Yeah, you can triple the time invested to make it work, maybe skip sleep for a day or so, or just use something that works as well without all the drama: epoxy chassis primer and topcoat.

I just think it's over-hyped for what it is.

 

I too am not a fan of Por 15. I cringe when I read an ad boasting the restoration used that product on all the underbody work. Encapsulation paint is nice and shiney, but in my experience, just causes problems with adhesion and moisture later on. To me, this stuff is the lipstick used on the pigs!
If you're going to do the job, 2 part epoxy is best. Even old fashioned Rustoleum works pretty well.
-Donny