Oh No... Another Knuckle Pudding Thread

The one knuckle on my Toyota front axle (similar closed knuckle design to Dana, but larger) has a drip. The “00” grease from TSC is separating and the liquid is finding its way through the shim pack.

I’m currently messing with some old CV axles from a car, and this got me thinking... has anyone used or discussed the possibility of using CV axle grease in place of knuckle pudding? It feels like the same viscosity, but it seams like a much more stable compound. I’ve never seen this stuff separate or break down.

 

Just my gut reaction, but I feel like it would be too thick. Remember, it has to splash lubricate the upper trunnion bearing.

 

I expect this is more about the quality/refinement of the product. Possible the oil is coming out because it was mixed in originally, and has a slightly different density than the larger grease molecules. That would argue that any mix of grease and oil will separate eventually. What about the corn head grease that Howard mentions?

 

Use the CV joint grease, just make sure to pack the upper bearing well. I think that Tims post above is the root issue for the separation issue.

 

I stuffed some of Metalshaper's blue stuff in mine, but I'm a while out from actually rolling my chassis to check for leaks.....wondering if anyone else has tried his formula? Yes it was expensive but i wanted to support him for all the helpful videos.

 

How often should I lock the front hubs and drive around to make sure said splashing takes place?

 

Nearly the exact same story here. While I haven't run it yet either, I am confident it is correct for the application, he knows his stuff.

 

Cornhead grease is #0, which is not self leveling, and is designed to turn more liquid with heat. #00 grease is self leveling in room temperature. I went with the #00 because the knuckles don’t reach high temps like a gearbox does, unless you’re riding the brakes. Also, I assumed a premixed, bottled product would have less risk of separating than some home brew.

As a side note, I never considered the knuckle goo was supposed to reach the upper bearing, so I’ve always packed them anyway.
That’s why I make sure to roll over once in a while, for upper bearing lubrication.

 

I've been using the cornhead grease for a few years, and been pretty happy with it, but I also pack my upper bearings, and I generally lock the hubs in about once a month or so, go find a dirt road to blast up and down a few times, just to sling the stuff around. You know, because it's absolutely no fun going out and hooning around a bit for no good reason.

 

I lock mine in every couple of months for 1/2 mile or so. Don't know if that's enough or not.

 

This conversation comes up often on every Jeep forum I have ever participated in, and folks have different opinions.

Not wanting to argue about it, so please just take this as my opinion. Everyone has to make up their own mind on this stuff.

"Remember, it has to splash lubricate the upper trunnion bearing." This is a common misconception, unless I misunderstand what is meant "by trunnion bearing". The lubricant in the knuckle does not get into the king pin bearings, these have to be packed as a part of routine maintenance.

That said, whatever lubricant is used in the knuckle has to be able to flow enough to lubricate the joint and offer some lubrication to the axle bushing in the spindle. As far as the joint is concerned the lubrication need may vary a bit depending on which of the three types you have.

While it is very popular to use "Cornhead Grease" I think it is a mistake because what it is designed for doesn't cover what is needed in the steering knuckle.

The reason folks concoct "Knuckle pudding" is because the lubricant specified in the earlier manuals is no longer available, and by itself the 140wt GO specified in later manuals will leak around the seals. I don't want gear oil on my brakes or leaking past the knuckle seals out onto the floor, so I have always mixed my own knuckle pudding using chassis grease and 140 wt GO, as described on the Novak site, and have yet to have any problem with it.

I have lately been thinking about trying the lube "Metalshaper" offers, as he impresses me as someone who knows what he is talking about, and his demonstration of the stuff looks like it is proper consistency.

I haven't thought about using CV joint lubricant, but seems logical it would work better than cornhead grease.

Whatever is used needs to be thick enough not to leak past the seals, but have enough flow to lubricate the joint and bushing. The perfect blend will seep just enough past the knuckle seal to keep the cup greased without dripping all over the floor of the garage.

 

I have all of Metalshaper's lubes and they seem to be high quality and exactly as he shows in his videos.

 

I wish he would talk about what kind of engine oil to use in an F head.

 

STP?

 

In answer to Ryan's initial question, Yes, I have used molydisulphide "CV" lube in my D27 for years. This is the dark grey stuff that you can't get off your hands. Coming from an air-cooled VW background, I've always had this stuff around.
Some tubes of this grease are a little too thick, in my opinion, but the Empi brand and Lobro brand are almost liquid. I used to buy squeeze tubes for a single CV boot service, and I think used about 4 (maybe 5?) tubes per side on the Jeep. The only down-side to using this stuff is its a real mess. I had to replace a u-joint once, and I kinda regretted that I put it in there.
I have had a slight amount of this product separate to an oily thick liquid, but only a very small quantity. Its like it gets slung out to the outside of the CV boot from rotation of the axle, of course in a VW application.
I remember the globes of the D27 knuckles getting a slight buildup of the grease at the extreme limits of the wiper seal, but never enough to cause a drip. Over time, it weeps past the wiper seal, probably from pitting of the globe.
-Donny

 

A quick FYI...
First gen Bronco's originally ran an open knuckle D30 that used the same bearings as our D27's. They take a steel seal on the bottom under the bearing race. I've run these on the upper bearing of my 27 for years. It allows you to pack the upper bearing and then not have to worry about it drying out. It does require a number of bearing cap shims to offset the added thickness of the seal.
All that being said, a simple piece of aluminum can cut to fit would work just as well......

 

"I wish he would talk about what kind of engine oil to use in an F head."

5w-30, 10w-30 oil is what I would use in an F 134

 

Exactly how much is expensive? I agree his videos are very good.