Replacement Of All Bulbs, Except Headlights, With Led

I have a 67' Dauntless which is all completely stock. The jeep still has the Spartan signal switch as well. All lights work, including the blinkers. I am interested in converting all to LED bulbs. I have conducted some preliminary research, but I want to get input from the members on this site, as nobody knows our old CJs better than us. Please chime in.

 

Howard: Can you point me to a specific flasher that you have in mind?

 

I’m running all LEDs except the headlights in mine. Any auto parts store will have generic two- or three-prong flasher units that are electronic that say “LED compatible” on them. They maintain the same flash time regardless of amp draw.

Besides the amp light issue that Howard mentioned, there’s really nothing to it. LEDs come in 1056, 1057 and 1057A equivalent sizes, just labeled “LED” after the number. It’s plug and play.

 

I’m running LED bulbs for the front blinkers and incandescent in the rear. my original front bulb housings were totally destroyed, so I hardwired mini LEDs, and they fit perfectly in the grille where old housing used to be. Added an LED compatible flasher and all is well.

bulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QBB7G1...abc_VQ5KFBW7YQ07DK8Z21F0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

led flasher relay:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QPSCPM...abc_Z292V64ZXPJ0FCSG0258?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

I installed all but headlights also in my 3B. All sourced from Superbright, flasher unit included.
LED Lights, Bulbs & LED Lighting Accessories | superbrightleds.com

 

I did this on my '67, and had no issues with it at all.

I've only noticed one difference after installing an electronic flasher and LED bulbs in the turn signal & brake lamps (besides the fact that they're now a lot brighter than they were with incandescent bulbs). For some odd reason, the indicator light on the turn signal switch now flashes longer than it used to.

 

LEDs are different from incandescent bulbs.

First, they are polar. They have a positive (+) and a negative (-) which must be connected correctly for them to light. These are diodes (Light Emitting Diodes) and they either block or pass current, depending on the polarity.

Second, they will not tolerate unlimited current. The amount of light they produce is determined by the current; more current equals more light. You can limit the current by stringing a bunch of them together, or by putting a resistor in series with the LED. If you have an LED with a maximum current of 100ma, and a barrier potential of 2 volts, a series resistor of 100 ohms will limit the current. Ohm's law: (12 - 2)/0.1 = 100. If you purchse plug-in replacement bulbs, they should already account for this.

Finally, they use a lot less current to make the same amount of light. Randomly picking some numbers off the web, the bright filament in an 1157 is 21 watts (I = P/V = 1.75 amps) while the equivalent LED makes 5 watts (5/12 = 417 milliamps). This is why your flashers either don't work or are slow. The traditional mechanical flasher can uses a bimetal switch that opens and closes as it heats and cools from its internal resistance. Less current, less heating, slower (or no) cycle. The "electronic" flashers use a timer chip that opens and closes the same, regardless of the current.

 

I used the SuperBright replacement bulbs in the dash of my VW. Worked well, very bright and dimmable.

 

Here's what I used:

Amber Parking / Turn Signal Lights: 2X AUXITO 1157 Amber yellow LED Turn Signal Parking Light Bulb Error Free EOA | eBay (I tried the SuperBright amber bulbs first, but ended up liking these better).

Red Taillights: From Super Bright LEDs: (Red) 1157 LED Bulb - Dual Function 27 SMD LED Tower - BAY15D Bulb | Super Bright LEDs

Flasher: Amazon.com: CEC Industries 12V Heavy Duty 3-Pin Electronic Flasher EF33RL Relay for LED and Incandescent Bulbs (1-Pack) : Automotive

I installed halogen headlights that very closely resemble the stock ones, but are a good bit brighter. I used these: (Amazon.com: GE Lighting H6024NH Nighthawk Automotive Halogen Sealed Beam Headlight Bulb : Automotive,) but there are several different brands / models available.

Also....I almost forgot that I replaced the bulbs in the speedometer gauge cluster with LED's. The first ones I tried were actually a bit too bright, and I ended up using these: Amazon.com: Ruiandsion 2pcs BA9S LED Bulbs 0.5W AC 12V Yellow COB 1SMD LED Car Interior Dome Map Light,Non-polarity : Automotive

 

The non-polar LED bulbs probably use two LEDs, connected in opposite polarity. Only the LED with proper polarity lights. If they ever quit, you should be able to turn them around and use the other LED.

 

Thanks, Tim, I was wondering about that....

 

Yeah, I presume. That would be the easy way to do it. The SMD LEDs are really cheap now, compared to the price of the finished product. And they don't need to be high-spec if they don't make a lot of light. If you test one with a battery or other 12V source, you might be able to see one side light up and then the other side.

 

www.mouser.com/Optoelectronics/LED-Lighting/LED-Emitters/High-Power-LEDs-White/_/N-8usfj?P=1z0z7pt&Keyword=LED&FS=True&Ns=Pricing|0

1c each in a reel of 4000.