16" Steel Wheel Beadlocks

Has anyone messed about with putting beadlocks onto 16" steel rims?

Split type combat rims apparently had a way to lock the bead. But I can't find documentation/pictures of precisely how. Or even if it's possible to find the necessary pieces (Was it a metal ring inside?)

[I'm saving up for a new tire/wheel purchase (putting the classic look on) and trying to consider options that allow for growth as my offroading skills improve.]

 

Sorry, but the 2 piece combat rims do not lock the bead-at least not on the 16" MB/GPW rims. The rim edge on both halves is very conventional and smooth.

 

This conflicts with w3srl's linked video, timestamp 1:30. Please school me on this. Is it more the case that the inner bead locking mechanisms (the bead separators) are for the most part lost to history or that they are not useful?

If combat rims do have replacement bead separators, then this is a tremendously awesome asset. It would make me save up for repros of them instead of locating a used set of KH 16" to restore. It fits my desire to build my rig as a wolf in [1950s'] sheep's clothing.

 

Just called them. D&L has seen them, but doesn't know where you'd find one. Walck's hadn't heard of them. I'm gonna sign up on g503 and ask there for dimensions or pictures.

In the meantime, I found some diagrams of other combat rims and it looks like an easy to reproduce design. It's literally a metal band inserted into the tire and then the rims are bolted together. The band's width is dependent on the tire bead width.

 

I have yet to take one apart and still have that ring in there and that's probably for the better-at least they come apart without it. Would appear to be the perfect place to make rust.

 

Most of the WWII jeep restorers do not anticipate the need for a beadlock and it makes assembly and disassembly much more difficult....so they leave it out. Usually a thick flap is installed instead to protect the tube. If you post a wanted post on the 503 boards you should be able to find the beadlocks, but the rims will set you back $200 each or more nowadays.

 

Home-made 2-piece wheels are likely illegal for street use in your area. I recall that true bead-locks are as well... maybe not everywhere. Just a consideration.

 

Another thing to consider on the military rims is they are a run flat ring, not an actual beadlock. If the tire is aired down enough the tire may still spin on the rim and tear out the valve stem. If the tire has been on for a couple of decades it won't spin, as everything will have rusted together, but that is a different problem.

If you want the vintage stock look just go with CJ2A narrow steelies and some nice bias winter tread tires....or NDT's ... but you won't find them to be the absolute best off road in either case. Modern off road rubber is a bit improved from the old school stuff, from what I have heard. I can't afford new tires nowadays so I make do with used stuff. My jeeps haven't been in any serious offroad situations anyway yet.

 

I'm a fan of what wuze did
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?71339-weld-on-beadlock-kit
they look fantastic, and pass as stock-ish
just have to see if they are legal in each state
this is silly but you could, in theory possibly put the ring on the inboard side of the wheel if it clears your brakes
and have stock rims with a bead lock.

 

http://www.hutchinsoninc.com/beadlocks.php

http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0909or_staun_products_internal_beadlock_system/index.html

 

Wuze's choice looks nice. I'd hate to be blamed for messing up the limited stock of restoration 4.5" wheels, but I'd be messing them up off road anyways. It brings up an interesting question, since there are no modifications to the inside of the tire, you could still (say for inspections, etc) use the wheel with the tire as originally intended, couldn't you?

jwjeep60: How do you like the beadlock? Functional or annoying? That's a cool idea for the inner bead lock. I guess the outer bead is the more common concern, but inner is better than nothing, and it'd be discrete.

That Staun internal beadlock is interesting.

I've discovered an outfit that makes replacement internal beadlocks for the H1 Hummer Wheels. They use thick PVC pipe, darn clever as it could be fabricated even by someone like me without welding skills. I'd imagine this would work for the WWII combat rims as well. http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Hummer_Rims/


Here's a picture of a WWII combat wheel beadlock, but for a larger wheel than 4.5-16:


Here's a picture of a WWII combat wheel with beadlock with a modern 6.00-16 tire section to show fitment:

 

Does anyone know if combat wheels fit over a disc brake swap (using a Chevy Dana 44 caliper and 1-1/8" by 11-3/4" CJ rotor)?

G503 has lots of discussion about Suzuki disc brake swaps and combat wheels, but nothing on the Chevy based conversions. Apparently the heads of the studs that connect the split sides reduce clearance.

 

no experience with beadlocks myself. I was looking at wider steelies myself and the beadlock would add an inch or so. I know the outer lock is more popular because that is the side that will be pushed off in baja or rally type events. and it allows the tire to be removed from the rim with the rim on the axle.
the determining factor onroad is local and state laws, but offroad is personal preference.

sorry for the late response.

 

I found a combat rim locally and tried it out. It did not clear the Chevy caliper. The threads of the bolts that hold the wheel together prevented me from being able to tighten down the lug nuts. I'd estimate that it'd need 3/4" taken off those threads, but that sounds like a bad idea. w3srl: they didn't go on far enough to see if the contoured section got in the way. The combat rim did clear my '75 CJ-5 11" drums on the rear axle though.

 

To use an inner side of the wheel bead lock you would most likely need to change the wheel backspacing as they add width to the wheel. As was said, about an inch. This can create interference issues with springs, shocks, steering arms (Knuckle), etc

 

Today I tried out a 4.5x16" wheel from a mid-40s CJ2A. As w3srl, said, it doesn't fit. It would require grinding or a thin spacer to clear the caliper. Picture of point that interferes: