flash rust

I've been thinking about using a sand blast attachment on my pressure washer to clean my frame prior to paint . I have two questions .
Has any body used this method ? pro's and con's ?
What would I use to rinse the frame to stop flash rust ?
I haven't used this method , so any input would be appreciated .
Thanks , Dan

 

Someone did a couple of years. Might try a search. IIRC it worked well for him. The only problem I saw was you couldn't recover the sand for reuse. Flash rust shouldn't be a problem as long as you get it coated soon.

 

grannscj,
yeah, I thought about not being able to recover the sand . but sand is cheap , and it keeps me from choking out the neighborhood .
If the hot , dry weather we have had continues , I think I should be able blast , dry and prime pretty quick . I'm gonna give it a shot.

 

For flash rust, I used a product call Krud Kutter. Has phosphoric acid in it. It will keep flash rust from forming, and etches the metal helping paint adhesion. I have bare metal treated with this rust free for as long as a year.

 

Be aware that certain primers , such as a two part epoxy, might not stick if you use a rust converter. I suggest researching the compatibility of rust converter with your primer choice.

 

If it were mine, I'd go to paint right away and skip any treatments. SPI black epoxy primer is good stuff - spray, brush or roller.

 

I agree with Tim on the Southern Polyurethane's epoxy...in fact, it was the one I was thinking of when I said it won't stick to rust converters.

It's a great primer otherwise, almost like a shrink wrap on the vehicle.

 

naval jelly has been working great for me on flash rust

 

tomatoelane.
Naval jelly is thick enuf to stick to odd shapes ? how long does it have to stay on the surface ? What do I rinse with after the jelly ?
Thanks for the tip ,

 

yes it is very gooey, just like real jelly. its just like pink slime.

Takes about an hour to work and i rinse with water,

then I take a dry rag and wipe it down with ,strait out of the bottle CLR,(calcium lime rust remover,) grey bottle, (kitchen cleaner,) let that work for another hour then just wipe it all down with a dry rag

works good for me turns the metal to a black color

It will turn to a white powder if you leave it on over night, (I dont recommend leaving it on that long) but will come off with CLR,or another thin coat of naval jelly

I just got done doing the rear floor pan and the seams where it attaches to the fender wells,

I separated the seam just enough to see the spot weld pull alittle bit, then used generous amounts with a small paint brush all over and squished it in the seam

worked good for me

then i took a hammer and dolly and flattened out the seam again.

This step is up to the individual , I seal the seam, ...I have used jb weld to seal the seams ,and have used 3M seam sealer , I like seam sealer better ,alittle more playable,



O yeah , if u use CLR don't leave it on over night either , or it will rust the metal,use it like you would bug and tar remover , wipe it on then let it sit for 30 min to an hour the wipe off

 

I also used it on my frame ,leaf springs,and the front and rear bumper with good results, then used a paint from the steel shop, called fire box black, used for the inside of fire places,

holds up for ever on a frame , and last a long time on motors too, if you dont mind a black motor