Aftermarket oil pressure gauge?

I bought a cheap oil pressure gauge and want to hook it up to my 1959 CJ5 with the F134. I don't want to take the current pressure switch off that operates the oil lamp. Can I use an existing plug? I see two of them coming out of the block just to the left to the original pressure line. Are these oil passages and could I safely use them?

 

You can just get a brass tee fitting if you want.

 

Brass tee is the way to go. Works great for me.

 

Thanks! I'll look for one at the store next time.

 

I need to add an oil pressure gage. Light does not work. I haven't bought one yet because I am not sure how to hook it up. I was thinking about an electrical one instead of a analog one. But hot sure the sending unit fitting will fit. I was thinking the plastic line would fail because of all the vibration. The panel is all original so I would rather not drill a hole for a new gage, however, I have seen gages mounted in the panel in some photos. If any of you have suggestions I would appreciate them.


Don't mean to take over this thread. If I should have started another one-let me know.

Thanks

 

They sell small cluster gauges and usually include oil, volts, temp, that you can screw into the bottom of you dash, (hangs down from the dash) and you could just use the oil gauge in the cluster. Never installed a electrical one so I have no suggestions there.

 

The main danger with the plastic line is rubbing a hole in it, or burning through it by it flopping around and touching the exhaust. I have used the plastic installation kit in the past, but I covered the entire length of plastic tubing with vacuum hose, and securely tied down the tubing. Worked fine - no problem.

The advantage of a mechanical guage is that they react faster to changes in oil pressure. The electric OP gauge moves slowly.

As mentioned, you can get an under-dash bezel for the gauge, and avoid drilling holes that way. Check Summit Racing or Jegs for oodles and oodles of gauges and mounting hardware.

 

Me myself, I also prefer an actual mechanical gauge, as Timgr says - it responds much more accurately to momentary fluctuations, gives earlier warning of low oil, etc. Plastic tubes may need support to avoid breaking at the fittings, in my experience - but copper can also "work-harden" from vibration and get brittle. Use it with plenty of slack, and even a coil or two to allow gentle movement.

I would say pretty much any size sender fitting can be made to work with enough hardware store adaptors.

 

I used an electric oil pressure gauge in mine, simply because I've had both the plastic and copper lines fail on me in the past, and I didn't want that happening on the trail. I bought a quality gauge (AutoMeter) and it's pretty quick to respond to pressure changes.
If you do go mechanical, toss the plastic tube and go with the copper line. Put a couple of coils in it to absorb vibration (just like brake lines on a firewall mounted master cylinder).
As far as gauge mounting goes-I don't like the gauges hanging under the dash, but I sure was reluctant to cut holes in my unmolested original dash! I finally mounted them just to the left of the steering column, similar to the Renegade 2 location, and I'm very happy with it.

 

Thanks all

I ordered an electrical gage today. Still debating about mounting method. But am favoring under dash if I can find a bracket.

 

They sell bracket with screws to fix under the dash. But I have an old Willys WWII oil pressure gauge mounted directly on the engine, its direct and perfect, except a hole is needed and no light in it. I also took this opportunity for water temp, WWII Jeep direct temp, but no light.
I have WWII Jeep not far, so it is easy for me.
I am going to buy a fuel gauge independent of the cluster to have a good result; so the dash will change a little bit, but I have true datas;
it is better than the standard one.