Spicer D-18 Transfer Case Output

So I put this together a while back and was waiting for felts/brake parts to finish up.

Everything seems to work fine overall until I put the rear output flange on and tighten it down. Once tightened it binds up. Did I put something together wrong? it seems the same as when I took it apart.

Photos here: Transfer case output problems (may or may not work, microsoft is having a problem) (too big to put directly in forum)

Video here: https://youtu.be/7aH1zWTXpoQ

 

photo protected . can't see
did you put the felt dust seal in .

 

Yes, When I first put it back together, the complete parking brake was on, and the felt seal was in, I took it all apart trying to figure out what I screwed up. The photos don't show it, but with or without it I have the same problem

 

did you set the rear output shaft endplay correctly? Should be about .004 -.008. Then you'll loose some of that with sealer.

 

This is a pretty good guide to the process, IMO.

http://www.willystech.com/wt/Model18TCase/Model18TransferCase.html

 

On this video, there seems to be no "dome" where the felt should be, on my output flange it has a dome, which is what I think is binding.

 

yes, I used a dial micrometer to adjust the shims.

 

Thanks, that is a good one! Similar to the one I got with the kit from Novak, but with more commentary. Unfortunately it's not helping me at this end point.

 

Sorry, Photo shouldn't be protected, anyone with a link should be able to see it. I tried the link in a different browser.

 

Sends me to an ad for One Drive that offers to sign me up.

The forum will let you drag and drop pictures into your post, as long as they aren't huge.

 

Sorry, the photos are too big, and there's a video. I moved the video which is the most important view to here: https://youtu.be/7aH1zWTXpoQ

 

The endplay needs to be set with the yoke or companion flange torqued down properly.
Leave the felt out when doing this. It throws the endplay off. make sure the seal is installed all the way to the step inside the output housing. If it is not the yoke or flange dust shield will hit the seal shell and lock everything up. Been there done that.

 

In these directions, it has a photo of checking endplay and shows no yoke/flange installed. This is how I did it. The Novak Guide to Rebuilding the Jeep / IH Dana 18 Transfer Case

Is the yoke/flange "felt bell" suppose to fit into the housing or over the housing? Mine is butting up against it?

 

Nickmil has likely done hundreds of these, and is speaking from years of experience with sage advice.

I also believe that your going to have to set the endplay tolerance again with the yoke fastened on. In those instructions from Novak the last sentence of the second paragraph states:
"It may sometimes be necessary to install the yoke, speedo drive spacer, etc. and torque the yoke nut to fully seat this assembly."

Start out with a loose fit and remove shims as needed to work your way up to the desired endplay.
After several attempts I got mine where I wanted it ( on the tight side of the spec's.) then disassembled one last time and used copper spray sealer on the shims to reduce the likelihood of gear lube seepage from in between the shims and reassembled one last time. My endplay tolerance loosened up a couple thousands after applying the sealant but was still within spec.


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OK, I pulled it apart to check start from scratch, and I have a question: Does the bell that holds the felt on the yoke fit into the housing?

Full video
Strait to the question

 

Thank you for the kind words.

 

Yes, it should. I don't use the felt. Some do but to me it just holds debris against the seal. it's a leftover from the days of leather seals. The idea was the felt would hold some lube against the leather to keep it from drying out. Just like the little round gasket that goes under the seal. Unnecessary if you put some sealer around the outside of the seal shell. I like RTV UltraBlack or The Right Stuff. Both have worked well for me. I use it on the shims as well (super thin coat) but whatever works for you. The coppercoat stuff works well on the shims but I hate trying to get that stuff off down the road.

The reason you want the yoke and nut installed is it pulls all the components together and tight when the nut is tightened. That way all the slack is taken out and gives you an accurate reading of endplay.

 

Thanks a ton! With your help, I think I can figure it out now.