Transfer Case Glitter?

Drained the fluid today in preparation for changing a front output shaft seal. Quite a bit of metal fuzz and flakes on the drain plug magnet. I'm not going to lie.. it hasn't been driven much and the maintenance has been a little lax... I think the last time the fluid was changed was back in 2015.

Should I put it back together and hope for the best?

 

Yikes, that's some pretty big pieces of something.
Is this a D20?

 

Yes, it is D20 all original around 100k miles.

 

JMO, I would look into it. might save some expensive parts. That oil looks like there is water in there. I also would look closely at the main trans too with the oil like that in the transfer case.

 

Something let loose. If it keeps going it will definitely start getting expensive.

 

No bueno!

 

Drained the transmission fluid... it's in even worse condition with a little solid debris in the bottom of the case.

I have a second car at the moment and am not headed south this winter on the sailboat, so I have some time to figure out what to do. I have always wanted a T18 for a long time, but will probably end up rebuilding the T-14 along with the D20. It's mostly used on the street and mild trails/fire roads so it's hard to justify a driveline swap. Any advice?

 

If it was mine I would get a kit from Novak and rebuild the T-14

 

x2, and while your at it, get a rebuild kit from them for the transfer case.

 

hanks, everyone for the honest advice! Even if it's not what I want to hear! lol
I'll pull the transmission and transfer case out sometime in the next week or two. I will rebuild the transfer case as well when I have it out, Replace the clutch too since it's 20 years old and has around 50K on it.

 

A 50 year old Jeep is your Daily! Right on!
Wish I still had my '73 Super '5 304
But now my Daily is 60 year old Wagon

and I agree with all of the above, that ain't glitter, dems CHUNKS! Tear it down ASAP

 

Mine did not have metal chunks or glitter but did sit in an open field for 12+ years and had water in both. I honestly believe if you have some basic tools and pullers you will enjoy rebuilding it. The Novak kits are the way to go and their support is A+. I put together a 2x6 bench top that was about 5x6 size, and used the harbor freight steel 500lb saw horses to set it on and it worked great and had a very nice work area.

If you are unsure, there are a few good videos on youtube on rebuilding a T14 and Dana20. The Novak instructions are also a great resource as well as a TSM. Use transmission assembly goo to hold the needle bearings and save you a nightmare.

As a side note when I was doing mine I started a thread on it and got some very good advice and information from the forum folks.

 

Yep, not a bad project to take on. Also, if you wanted a lower low range, it would be the time to install a Tera Low. Conversely, if you need any of the stock gears, a few of us, like me (hint hint,) have them left over from our Tera Low conversions.

 

I have an update. We had a warm day up here (34F) and I took the opportunity to pull the transmission, transfercase, and clutch.

The clutch is due for replacement and the pressure plate shows signs of overheating. Has around 60k miles on it. Fortunately looks like the flywheel will clean up nicely. Any reason I shouldn't just use another stock replacement clutch?

The only disconcerting thing is the pilot bearing fell out when I removed the transmission! Shows signs that it was spinning in the crankshaft. Note the missing piece. This is probably original as I didn't replace it when I replaced the clutch and pressure plate in 2004.


I will dig into the transmission and transfer case soon. At first glance, I see some spaling on the reverse idler gear.

 

I would re-surface the flywheel.
Do the job once, do the job right.

 

That's the plan! No heat checking, I think it will be good after re-surfacing. I skipped it last time and that was a mistake.

 

x2, a resurface of your flywheel Will make an enormous difference in how smooth it operates.

 

The clutch disc looks fine, but the pressure plate looks pretty rough. My guess is a new disc was installed on the original pressure plate (where the old disc was worn into the rivets), and without resurfacing the flywheel. Look for glazing (shiny) on the disc and reuse if not glazed, just lightly scuff with 220 grit sandpaper. You will need a new pressure plate.
Carefully inspect all gears to find where those chunks came from.
-Donny

 

Thanks for the advice! I'm reasonably sure I replaced the pressure plate in 2003 along with the clutch disc and throw-out bearing. The clutch has some minor glazing and some oil contamination from the transmission input shaft seal. Rather than reusing, I ended up ordering a complete Luk clutch kit.

 

More progress!
Got the flywheel machined, and picked up a new ring gear for the starter which has seen better days.

Started taking the transmission apart and found the root cause of the issue. The cage on the transmission output shaft bearing had failed and come apart. This explains debris in both the transmission and transfer case.

Haven't taken the transfer case apart but did pop off the pan, looks pretty good inside. Transmission is a different story... the reverse gear on the counter gear and the idler show some spauling. Not surprising since its closest to the failed bearing, and probably had bits of the cage falling in it.

What do folks think? Does appear that the parts are available aftermarket, but appear to be pretty crude reproductions.