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63 cj5

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by unclebill, Feb 28, 2009.

  1. Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    The FIRST thing you should have learned was that JEEP stands for Just Empty Every Pocket! I'm sure you've got a handle on that by now though!

    Oh hey, I have details from Beachwood Canvas about seat covers. PM me if ya wanna hear.
     
  2. unclebill

    unclebill Banned

    i wanna hear.
     
  3. Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Item number is 5L2302. Price for four covers for two front seats is $375, for plain black vinyl, no stitched pattern. Man says the plain lasts much longer, the stitched patterns will wear out quicker (tears along the seams sooner). Stitched covers have to be ordered, 4-6 week lead time, more $$$.

    They're going on sale in a week to $300 for the set of four covers. They have one set in stock right now, I'm ordering them tomorrow (said he'd give me the sale price early). I'm sure the sale price will generate production of some more.

    I believe that part number includes covers for the rear seat too, but I told him I don't have one, and these are the prices he gave me for just the front seats. Covers are two separate ones for each seat - top cushion and bottom cushion are separate items. I sent him photos for verification, he said "yep, for those frames".

    Asked for photos of the kits, and a covered seat, if possible. Haven't seen any yet, but it was late.
     
  4. unclebill

    unclebill Banned

    it turns out that i didnt fix the brake lights.
    i started at the battery and tested my way to the switch itself.
    then got rained out.
    fuses are fine.
    i have dual filament bulbs.
    what would be the next step in checking the wires?
    should i jam a stick on the brake pedal and start checking the wires to figure out which one is the brake?
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2009
  5. mt_jeep

    mt_jeep New Member

    Do the turn signels work? The brake lights also go though that switch.
     
  6. unclebill

    unclebill Banned

    everything but the brake lights work.
    it's disconnected somewhere i guess.
     
  7. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Either the bullet connectors from the T/S switch, or the ones on the brake light switch?
     
  8. unclebill

    unclebill Banned

    after work i will go a hunting.:)

    i am draining the transfer case now and i am going to pull the cover and gently hammer it flat.
    it has dimples from over tightening.
    i wanna get this leak under control.
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2009
  9. uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    Or the brake light switch...

    Hook the 2 wires together, check the rear lights.

    This has been rewired, hasn't it?
     
  10. unclebill

    unclebill Banned

    it has been rewired
     
  11. unclebill

    unclebill Banned

    i held the t/c cover to a straight edge.
    no wonder it leaks!
     
  12. Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Well, you know how Bubba's are...."if it's still leakin', it ain't tight enough!"
     
  13. unclebill

    unclebill Banned

    i set it on a straight hard block of wood and gave it a number of love taps.
    i am trying to knock them down a little bit.
     
  14. unclebill

    unclebill Banned

    they both look fine.
    i replaced one just for the heluvit
    the other ones in great shape.


    this kinda s#!t gets me so mad.
    it drives me crazy.
    get under the jeep
    do something
    crawl out to see if it worked
    get under the jeep
    repeat
     
  15. unclebill

    unclebill Banned

    i dont know what wires to test or what to look for.
    i checked the ground by depressing brake pedal with key on
    skinning the groundwire and putting my tester on bare wire with tester grounded to frame.
    no light up on tester
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2009
  16. uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    One of the wires to the brake switch should be hot (has 12v) all the time, the other goes to the brake lights via the turn signal switch, regardless of the ignition switch position.
    If neither wire at the brake switch is hot, that's the first problem.
    Try hooking a jumper wire from your battery (+) to one of the terminals on the brake switch, one won't do anything, the other should light up your brake lights if the TS switch is good and the rest of your wiring and bulbs are good.
    The terminal that didn't do anything should be the 12v source to the brake lights, it flows through the switch when there is enough hydraulic pressure in the brake system to close the switch.
    I assume that yours is still a pressure switch down on the front of the master cylinder.
    Now my head hurts too.
    Hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2009
  17. unclebill

    unclebill Banned

    thank you
    i guess i will just redo all the connections.
    they all look fine to me.
    it's all new wiring.
    but something got disconnected when i pulled the steering column
     
  18. uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    I reread your thread this A.M., You have that wiring diagram so all of that shouldn't be too hard.
    No need to redo the connections, just check them.
    Since the last thing you did is the steering, it's looking more like something around it is suspect.
    Let us know what you find.
     
  19. Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Look for pinched wires too. Easy to pinch one and cause grief.
     
  20. unclebill

    unclebill Banned

    :oops:im glad none of you guys know where my house is.
    it keeps me from gettin slapped.
    it was the inline fuse under the dash that i forgot about.......:oops: