CJ 5 F head 134 loses power. . .

I put new plugs in her, same problem. I bumped the fuel presure she did a little better. But there is so much play in the distributor shaft back and forth, I have a feeling it is the distrubutor. I bought a soild state distrubutor and threw that in, but I could get any spark at all with Soild state. Very frustaing. So now I returned the Soild State distributor ( defective?) and have the Old distrubtor back in. I have soild state reorder and will try again. Anyone ever use a soild state 134 Distributor from OMIX ADA? Thoughts?

 

It idles fine and runs in first fine. If you have the crud cleaned outa the carb under the float needle so it doesn't flood any more and 2 lbs of fuel pressure at the carb inlet, those should be right. What do you have your timing set at? 5 degrees before TDC? might bump that up to 10 and see how she runs. Point gap is set at .020 inches, spark plugs at .030. Which plugs do you have in there? On the underside of the distributer is a plate with slots in it. That can be install the wrong way and you can't adjust the timing anymore. Get a magic marker or some such and mark the plate then remove it and flip it over and put it back on, then try the timing again. The mark is just for reference so you know which way was the original. The weights might be sluggish or stuck. They are under the plate for the points.

Oh yeah, and look for a plugged or partially plugged exhaust. Tiny fury kritters like those kind of places to build their nests. Which air cleaner do you have? The oil bath original, or an after market paper type? Replace the paper type. Somebody else will have to tell you about the oil bath type. I don't have one on mine anymore and have no idea what to do with them. Might sound dumb, but how are the brakes. Any of them dragging? or the one on the back of the transfercase?

 

I am running 1-1/2 psi on Fuel pressure reg, I will bump to 2 psi. I have played with the timing, I have plenty of adjustment but, this was all done by ear and trial and error there are no timing marks left on my old block. So I don;t know how many degrees advance I am running.
I am running copper core autolite spark plugs @ .03 gap.

Now that you mention it I need to check the brakes, one maybe hanging because the brake lights are staying on. Kittens... ugh I don;t want to think about that ther are too may cats running about out in my jeep / shop area. I running the original old bath filter. Can a guy run a paper type right off the top of the carb? Where do you find those?

Thanks for info.

 

Do you have the proper Carter YF? It seems he made a bajallion of the YF's and one that would work of a six cyl. wouldn't work on a four. Some shade tree mechanic may have mixed and matched parts. Also, on your 58 your distributor should have a centrifugal advance, is it sticking and not allowing the higher speeds? I would also recommend keeping the oil bath filter. Yeah they're a pain, but they are simply the best possible.

 

A ways back you mentioned you had sand like stuff in the carb when you took it apart. Did you change the fuel filter? I have a fuel pressure gauge plumbed in my line at the carb. At idle I set the pressure then rev it up. If my filter is getting old the pressure will drop very slightly at higher RPM. If your filter is plugged it will drop even more under load.

Your fuel pump should be as close to the level of the bottom of your tank as possible. I have mine where you do but mine is at the bottom of the firewall. Also, the filter should be after the pump. The pump already doesn't pull up to that height as well as it can push then it also has to pull the fuel through your filter. A load will accentuate this issue. Try lowering the pump temporarily with zip ties and splice the filter in after your regulator or run it without the filter for the test run and see if it improves. You could also try cranking the pressure up to the max of the regulator (5 1/2). If it was starving for fuel this might help by just letting the pump give all she's got.

As far as replacing the air filter housing. I don't think this is any part of your problem but if you wanted to swap something else in there I mounted the round housing from a 1986 Chev Celebrity in the stock location. Uses stock intake tube and top screws off housing for easy replacement. Even has an extension off the housing that you can mount a snorkel to. It's also watertight with rubber seals.

If you have a lot off side-to-side play in the dist shaft you might be able to see where the rotor has been making contact with the terminals inside the cap.

 

Dave-

I took your advise and moved the fuel filter down and no big change. But, I think the issuse is the brakes and the distributor, the brakes are hanging up. The brake lights are staying on and the jeep needs alot of gas to move it, it is being bogged down. It moves in low gear okay but not high.

I need to get in to the brakes, I am also having my distrubutor rebuilt by the in San Diego I hope.. he is hard to get ahold of.

Now time to brush up on my drum brake knowledge any recomended threads on jeep brakes for the novice?

 

After I did the 4 wheel discs on mine with stock master cylinder my brakes were hung up too. I would let up on the gas and it would slow down pretty quick. My hubs were very hot and I could smell the pads.
You said you moved the fuel filter down but it's the pump that works better level to the bottom of the gas tank. The fuel filter gets moved to after the pump. Good luck.

 

I'd find a thread about upgrading to 11" brakes if you are still running the 9" drums. I probably spent more on rebuilding the 9" drums in parts as I would have in upgrading to 11"